IAN & SPAIN

Rice dishes are one of my favourites, but Valencian oven-baked rice or “Arroz al Horno” when I first came to Spain wasn’t exactly one of them until I tasted the real deal. I took a disliking to it mainly because it was often too dry for my liking. However, when I learnt the tricks to get it right, everything changed. It was just a process of practise making perfect, to be honest. There is a fine line between 'ok' rice and 'great' rice and I must admit it has taken me several attempts to even get close to a great “Arroz al Horno”. As with all traditional dishes they tend to be a lot of work but fortunately, this dish isn’t that time consuming and the result is just fantastic. It is actually quite simple. Valencian cuisine is normally eclipsed by the Paella but this dish is very much part of the Valencian’s staple diet. Traditionally it was prepared with the leftovers from the “cocido”, a meat and vegetable stew, but nowadays everyone makes it with fresh ingredients. Another of its advantages is that it doesn’t make as much mess as a paella when you are cooking indoors!

This dish is cooked in a large flat earthenware dish. If you don’t have one you can also cook it in a non-stick baking pan. However, the result is better in an earthenware dish. The ingredients you will need for this recipe are the following:

Ingredients for 4 people :

400g  Round Valencian Rice – the same you use for a paella - Bomba variety is the easiest to use as it will not go too soft, it is a lot more forgiving if you overcook it or get eth measurements wrong.

300g Pork Ribs chopped up into small pieces

300g Pancetta (thick-cut bacon) chopped up into small pieces.

200g Grated tomato

4 Onion Morcillas (Spanish black pudding)

1 large tomato cut into thick slices

1 large potato cut into thick slices

300g   Cooked Chickpeas (garbanzos)

1 whole head of garlic

Saffron

Paprika

1 litre approx. Chicken and vegetable stock

Extra Virgin Olive Oil (preferably Picual for frying)

(In Valencia you can buy "Arroz al Horno meat packs" already made up in some supermarkets so if you find one you only need to pull together the rest. I like to add a little extra pancetta if I buy a pack as they don't normally put much in them)

It looks like a lot of ingredients but it is fairly straight forward so I really encourage you to give it a go. 

The first step is to get the oven on full heat so it starts heating up while you are preparing the rest and start heating the stock. It needs to be almost boiling when you add it to the pan. Add a little saffron to the stock to give it a bit of colour and when the stock is hot add the chickpeas to it to heat them up, keep the stock hot. If you have homemade stock fantastic but the chances are you won't and I didn't, so I used as most people do, a ready-made stock from the supermarket.

Grab a frying pan, put in some extra virgin olive oil and start to fry the potatoes slices. They don’t need to be cooked just half cooked and slightly browned. Remove them and place them to one side.

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Now you need to fry the pork ribs. They need to be really well cooked so they go brown and crispy around the edges. Once the ribs are turning slightly brown pop in the whole garlic with the pancetta until it goes crispy too. You need to put the pancetta in slightly later as it cooks faster than the ribs. Once ready remove it all from the pan and place the meat and the garlic in the earthenware dish.

Take the morcillas and quickly fry them, without cutting them up, in the fat that has been left in the pan, just for a couple of minutes and take them out. You are not cooking them now just sealing them and giving the fat a bit more flavour. The next step is to add the grated tomato to the oil with a teaspoon of paprika and fry it gently in the remaining oil for a minute or two. At this point, you need to add the rice to the frying pan to seal it for a minute or so before putting it in the earthenware recipient. This will soak up all the fat and flavour from the pan and is essential for the final result. At this point, you need to add the hot stock and the chickpeas to the earthenware dish as quickly as possible, move the ingredients around so they are all evenly in place and put the potato and tomato slices on top. Now place it immediately in the oven on full heat for 20 min (250ºC). During the last five minutes of the cooking time turn on the grill so it browns the top. When it is ready all the stock should have evaporated. Remove it from the oven and let it sit for five minutes before serving.

As with all rice dishes the amount of stock or water is the key to success. The easiest way to measure the correct amount of rice and the correct amount of stock is to find a coffee cup or a small glass. I have one that holds approximately 100g of rice so I use one cup per person. The rule of thumb is for every cup/glass of rice you will need two cups of stock minus one from the total number. So if you are using 4 cups of rice you would need 7 cups of stock (using the same cup measurement). 

The secret to this recipe is time management and really cooking the meat well. The objective is to get all the ingredients into the oven while they are still hot so the oven doesn’t have to heat them up but starts cooking straight away from the minute it goes in. 

Now, just serve up and enjoy!

European white truffles can sell for as much as €5000 a kg, making them and their fellow fungi the most expensive food in the world. In Spain, the black truffle of Teruel oscillates between €500 and €1000 kg and is considered one of the finest in the world. However, if you are looking for a very special touch to your meal, this is it.

Truffles are hypogynous fungi. This class of fungi needs to join to the thinnest roots of certain superior plants such as holm oaks without which they are unable to live, a natural symbiosis.  The life of a truffle is linked to that of the symbiont tree it lives with. Truffles have a balloon-like shape, rough and irregular and variable in size and weight. Their aspect and size depend on the season: in spring you can hardly see them, in summer they are bigger in size and pale red in colour and by the end of the autumn they start to mature and get brown and black with reddish spots first and totally black by the end of the season.

Nowadays, over a hundred truffle species are known around the world, however, only a few of them are edible and appreciated. In the province of Teruel, there are two kinds of truffles that are harvested.

Firstly, the Tuber Melanosporum Vitt, which is commonly known as Winter black truffle or Black truffle of Teruel. The body of the black truffle normally has the size of a walnut or a tennis ball, rounded or irregular and lobed. The flesh of the black truffle is thick, compact and grey or violet coloured. It has very thin white veins, clearly marked and branched. They give off a characteristic smell, which is intense and pleasant, and their taste is unique, unmistakable and characteristic. The harvesting season of this truffle has just started and continues until March. It is the black truffle variety, which is most valued in the market, due to its culinary value.

Secondly, there is the Tuber Aestivum Vitt which is also known as Summer white truffle. It can be variable in size; from a walnut to a tennis ball. It also has a round or irregular shape, as the black truffle, but sometimes with small concavities.

The main difference between Tuber Aestivum Vitt. and Tuber Melanosporum Vitt. is their inner part or flesh (gleba). The Tuber Aestivum Vitt also has a thick and fleshy gleba but it is white, yellow or ivory coloured. The smell and flavour of the summer truffle are also pleasant and characteristic, though less strong. This truffle has less culinary value and it is considered Tuber Melanosporum’s younger sister, so to speak and is harvested between May and August.

These two species must not be confused with other truffle substitutes that are also in the market and their culinary quality cannot be compared to cheaper species. You should check the label when you buy a truffle, as it should state the species and Latin name.

The Black truffle of Teruel is considered one of the best truffles in the world. The Mediterranean climate of Teruel, characterised for being extreme, moderately warm and dry, with cold winters owing to the altitude, promotes the growth of suitable vegetation. Although dry, Teruel receives the necessary rainfall that combined with the arid and chalky soil and the experience of the farmers, makes Teruel the Spanish province with the best conditions for producing high-quality truffles. 

The truffle of Teruel, which is a subterranean fungus, is harvested with the aid of dogs that have been previously trained for this hard job. They can be different kinds of pure breed or cross-breeds, such as a Pointer or a Labrador retriever. The dog must be young, affable and obedient, medium-sized if possible and with hard hair to resist the low temperatures and the continuous rubbing up against the shrubs. Training a dog to find truffles is not an easy task and requires a lot of patience. The dog’s training begins with games: basically, you throw objects and then the dog has to find them and bring them back to you. Normally balls made up of clothes hiding a small portion of truffle inside are used. The animal also needs to be stimulated by eating small portions of truffle, so that it gets familiar with the smell of the valuable fungus.

Afterwards, the trainers will hide truffles under the soil several hours before the daily training session. This is done so that the smell of the truffle impregnates the soil and this way it resembles the real conditions of nature.
Every day, at the beginning of the training session, the dog is taken to the place where the truffle was hidden some hours before and then the animal is encouraged to search and scratch the land. When the dog finds the truffle it will be shown the fungus and allowed to smell it. Then, the dog is rewarded, which could be anything from a  piece of bread to very small bits of cheese, dry food or even a portion of its favourite treat. The dog needs to be stimulated with patting and games; however, it is never forced too much as it can get tired soon. Little by little, the smell of the truffle will become familiar to the dog and it will need 2 or 3 years of training and practise before it becomes a “professional seeker” of truffles. We all know that pigs were used in the past, but there was no way of training them not to eat their finds…so dogs were employed.

When a dog is searching out a truffle it goes around the producer trees with its nose stuck to the soil until it detects where the mature truffle is, then the dog scratches into the earth with its front legs until the order to stop is heard. The harvester extracts the truffle with the aid of special machetes; narrow machetes that are not pointed. He will dig carefully and unearth the truffle, covering again the hole with the same earth extracted before and after showing it to the dog he will give it a reward. The dog will not detect the truffle until it is sufficiently mature. Thus, it can pass over the truffle several times but never show any indication that the truffle is there.

As it is consumed in small amounts, its nutritional value is a secondary issue. However, this is a low-calorie food, with just 30 calories per 100gr, very digestive and many would say famous for its aphrodisiac powers…
The black truffle of Teruel turns any simple recipe into an exquisite delicacy, which is just unforgettable. This delicacy is treasured by the most demanding gurus of the national and international cuisine and by lovers of good gastronomic dishes. Its peculiar smell and taste, which has a strong personality, should not be mixed with other kinds of food that would mask its characteristics, for instance, garlic or vinegar.

If you use a black truffle to prepare a hot dish, it should be added at the end, as it does not require much cooking. This truffle combines well with red meat, all kinds of game, pasta, rice, eggs and so on.
But I will share a very simple truffle sauce to accompany a rib-eye steak or an “entrecote de buey” in Spain.

You will need for four servings:

250ml of liquid cream
2 shallots
2 tsp. of butter
10gr of Teruel black truffle (finely grated)

 Simply dice up the shallots, melt the butter in a small frying pan and pop them in, cook them for about 4-5 minutes and then add the cream. Then just add the finely grated truffle and stir the cream for a couple of minutes. Make sure you do this once the steaks are almost ready, the truffle doesn’t need much cooking time and it will continue to cook in the hot cream if you leave it standing for too long. Pour the sauce over the steak and serve with chips or steamed vegetables.

Enjoy.

There are certain dishes that define traditional cuisine, dishes that are slow-cooked, rich in flavour, and perfect for cold days. The Carrilleras de Ternera Guisadas con Vino Tinto (Beef Cheeks Stewed in Red Wine) is one such recipe. This cut of meat, once braised, transforms into a meltingly tender, gelatinous, and luxurious piece, enveloped in a deep, aromatic sauce.

This traditional recipe is surprisingly easy to make and yields a deeply satisfying meal. The secret lies in the long, slow cooking process that allows the meat to become incomparably soft and the red wine to impart its robust character to the final sauce.

The Humble Origin and Enduring Tradition

The story of Carrilleras is rooted in the Spanish culinary principle of aprovechamiento (making use of everything). Historically, beef or pork cheeks were considered a humble cut, often overlooked in favour of prime steaks and roasts. In traditional Spanish kitchens, particularly in rural areas, this cut—along with other parts like shanks or tails—was prized by cooks for its unique texture.

The muscle tissue in the cheek is dense, but it is marbled with a high amount of collagen. Braising the cheeks involves long, slow heat in a liquid base. This process breaks down the tough collagen into gelatin, which gives the final dish its signature melting tenderness and adds a luxurious, velvety body to the sauce. This 'guiso' is a staple of Spanish 'cocina tradicional', embodying comfort food perfected over generations.

Carrilleras de Ternera Guisadas con Vino Tinto (Traditional Beef Cheeks in Red Wine)

Ingredients

Instructions

1. Prepare the Meat: Clean the beef cheeks, removing any excess skin. Season with salt and pepper. Lightly flour them (optional).

2. Seal the Cheeks: Heat the olive oil in a large casserole. Sear the cheeks on all sides until browned, then remove and set aside.

3. Sauté the Vegetables: Lower the heat. Sauté the chopped onion, carrots, and garlic until soft. Add the bay leaf and aromatic herbs.

4. Deglaze with Wine: Return the cheeks to the pot. Pour in the red wine and bring to a boil, letting it cook for about 10 minutes to allow the alcohol to evaporate.

5. Braise: Add the beef broth. Bring to a simmer, cover the casserole, and cook for 30 minutes. Flip the meat, cover, and cook for an additional 20 minutes.

6. Reduce Sauce: Remove the lid and let the stew simmer for about 15 minutes to reduce and thicken the sauce.

7. Finish the Sauce: Remove the beef cheeks. Pass the sauce and vegetables through a food mill (pasapuré) or blend until smooth.

8. Serve: Slice the cheeks and drizzle generously with the sauce.

Serving Suggestion

Serve with creamy homemade Mashed Potatoes or Roasted New Potatoes. Garnish with fresh, chopped parsley or herbs.

Ingredient Variations For Your Stew

While the classic recipe is wonderful, the dish is forgiving and can be easily adapted based on what you have on hand or what flavour profile you prefer:

Ultimately, the Carrilleras Guisadas al Vino Tinto is more than just a recipe; it is a testament to the power of slow cooking and simple, quality ingredients. This dish transforms an often-neglected cut of meat into a centrepiece of flavour and texture, embodying the warmth, history, and generosity of traditional Spanish cuisine. Whether you stick to the classic preparation or experiment with a touch of sherry or dark chocolate, this hearty stew promises a profoundly satisfying and meltingly tender meal that is sure to become a cherished favourite.

The Day of the Valencian Community (Día de la Comunidad Valenciana) marks the anniversary of King James I of Aragon's re-conquering of the city of Valencia from Moorish forces in 1238. It is also the Day of Saint Dionysius, a traditional festival for lovers, the Valencian “Valentine’s Day”.

The custom on this day is to give the person you love the ‘mocadorà or mocaorà, which consists of a knotted silk scarf with miniature marzipan candies in the shapes of fruits and vegetables inside.

The most widespread version of the origin of this tradition is that Jaume I and his wife, Violante of Hungary, on their triumphal entry into the city of Valencia, after defeating the Muslims on October 9, 1238, were met by their inhabitants with gifts of fruits and vegetables from the local orchard and farms, wrapped in silk handkerchiefs.

From 1331 this date was established to commemorate the founding of the Kingdom of Valencia, which over time became a celebration of marked festivity in which the worldly pleasures were given free rein.

Unfortunately, with the abolition of the regional code of law by Felipe V in 1707, the celebrations of the 9th of October were also banned.  However, all was not lost, and with the intention of  the 9th October not losing its festive character, the guild of bakers and confectioners of the city of Valencia impelled the celebration of Saint Dionysius (Sant Donís) as the "day of the lovers".

To this day, the Valencian bakeries prepare themselves thoroughly for the 9th of October and cook thousands of marzipan miniatures; it is estimated that more than 80,000 kilos of marzipan are used to make about 250,000 "mocadoràs". In addition, the Guild of Bakers and Confectioners of Valencia convenes the Sant Donís Contest, to choose the best "mocadorà" and it is the best showcase opportunity for the bakeries and pastry shops throughout the city of Valencia. A frequent winner is El Forn de Latzer. You can see some examples here of their offerings and perhaps pay it a visit if you are in the area :