Max Abroad : The Best of Spain

<Foto Josep Maria Aragonés>

Batisielles, with its crystalline lake set in a green meadow and its creek winding through rhododendrons, black pines and tall and jagged mountains such as the Tucas de Lxeia and the Agujas de Perramó, is not just the definitive postcard of the Huesca Pyrenees: it is the photo that could be shown to an extraterrestrial to show them how beautiful our world is and make them envious. Logically, it is also one of the most popular and frequented mountain routes on which you cannot get lost, because it starts in the Estós Valley car park, three kilometres above Benasque, and at all times follows the red and white painted marks of the GR-11.2 trail.

After two hours of walking, first, on a forest track and then on a steep, stony trail, the lake is reached. There there is a high mountain ambience and breathtaking views that will take up all the memory in your camera, because for photographers, Batisielles is addictive.

From the small lake, the route can be taken further to the larger lake of Batisielles (one hour) or to those of Escarpinosa (45 minutes). Both options are signposted. The words of the French count Henry Russell, who toured this area of solitary stone, water and sky in the second half of the 19th century, still express what the mountaineer feels today: What earthly paradises! The lakes of Escarpinosa, the immense forests that surround them and the irresistible enchantment of these lost lakes in the faraway deserts of the Pyrenees, hidden among the firs, unknown to the masses, in which wild pyramids 3,000 metres high, immense fields of snow and the mysterious world of the stars can be seen! I hope that nature preserves here for a long time, even forever, its blanket of flowers, its grace and virginity.

Before or after climbing to Batisielles, visit the village of Benasque. It has a quaint old town of narrow streets, grey stone houses and thick slate roofs with Roman-style paving. Here you will see the Renaissance church of Santa María la Mayor, the palace of the counts of Ribagorza (16th century), the house of Marcial Río (17th century), the ancestral Pyrenean home of Fauye and the Infanzona of Juste (15th century), the latter with a large crenellated turret. The restaurants in Benasque serve a variety of game, trout and mushrooms, which are abundant in the mountains.

A large number of pastores (bull 'shepherds') cover the entire bull run. They place themselves behind the bulls, with their only protection being a long stick. Their main role is to stop the odd idiot from inciting the bulls from behind, to avoid the bulls turning round and running backwards, and to help any bulls that have stopped or have been separated from their companions to continue running towards the bullring.

The six fighting bulls that will take part in the evening bullfight start the run accompanied by an initial group of mansos, which act as 'guides' to help the bulls cover the route. Two minutes after leaving the corral in Santo Domingo, a second group of bullocks (the so-called 'sweep-up" group), which are slower and smaller than the first one, are let out to lead any bulls that might have stopped or been left behind in the bull run towards the bullring.

The encierro is an unrepeatable experience for spectators and runners alike. It is a spectacle that is defined by the level of risk and the physical ability of the runners.

What is not allowed in the bull run :

People under 18 years of age, who must not run or participate.

Crossing police barriers placed to ensure that the run goes off smoothly.

Standing in areas and places along the route that have been expressly prohibited by the municipal police force.

Before the bulls are released, waiting in corners, blind spots, doorways or in entrances to other establishments located along the run.

Leaving doors of shops or entrances to apartments open along the route.

The responsibility for ensuring these doors are closed lies with the owners or tenants of the properties.

Being in the bull run while drunk, under the effects of drugs or in any other improper manner.

Carrying objects that are unsuitable for the run to take place correctly.

Wearing inappropriate clothes or footwear for the run. Inciting the bulls or attracting their attention in any manner, and for whatever reason, along the route of the run or in the bullring.

Running backwards towards the bulls or running behind them.

Holding, harassing or maltreating the bulls and stopping them from moving or being led to the pens in the bullring.

Stopping along the run and staying on the fence, barriers or in doorways in such a way that the run or the safety of other runners is jeopardised.

Taking photographs inside the run, or from the fences or barriers without due authorisation.

Carrying objects that are unsuitable for the good order and security of the bull run.

Installing elements that invade horizontal, vertical or aerial space along the bull run, unless expressly authorised by the Mayor's Office.

Any other action that could hamper the bull run from taking place normally.

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BEST TIME TO VISIT:  6 JULY TO 14 JULY

In the Guide to the "Most Beautiful Towns in Spain",  there are a total of 104 towns listed. All of them are idyllic places to plan a getaway or make a stop-off or a day trip if you are in the area this summer. Here is a selection I have made of some of the "less common" beautiful towns on that list, not necessarily on the Top 10 lists, but definitely worth visiting nonetheless!

Lastres, Asturias

In Asturias, there are idyllic coastal spots such as Tazones or Ribadesella, for example, but Lastres is really special. Its 16th-century whaling district, its typical houses perched on the cliff and the walk descending from the top of the town to the port are unmissable.

Frigiliana, Malaga

There are so many white villages in Andalusia that are worth visiting that a list would have to be made just for them. Frigiliana serves as an example, located in the region of Axarquia, which preserves one of the most valuable historical centres of Arab origin in Spain.

Frias, Burgos

This small town hanging from a rock in the province of Burgos is worthy of being a movie location. Located in the heart of the Montes Obarenes Natural Park, its panoramic view is impressive.

Besalu, Girona

I could have chosen Cadaqués or any of the towns that make up the so-called Garrotxa region, all of them worthy of entering this list, but Besalú is a magnificent representation of the beauty of the entire province of Girona. It has one of the best preserved medieval ensembles in Catalonia. In fact, it was declared, in 1966, a historical-artistic complex due to its great architectural value, and it is enough to see a couple of photos to know that you have to set foot on its streets at least once in your life.

Fornalutx, Majorca

 If you are lucky enough to travel to Mallorca soon, you have to give up at least one day on the beach to enjoy the Tramuntana mountains and the idyllic villages located in its heart. Dèia, Sóller and, above all, Fornalutx make up a wonderful enclave. The latter is quiet, with its characteristic stone-carved buildings and surrounding orange and lemon trees.

Comillas, Cantabria

 Santillana del Mar, Potes, Bárcena Mayor… The list of must-see towns in Cantabria is very long but I opted for Comillas for its location and the unique beauty of its peculiarities. And there are few places where you can see Gaudí's work outside of Catalonia, Comillas is one of them, surely the best.

Alcala del Jucar, Albacete

In a quiet area of ​​the province of Albacete, close to the province of Valencia, is this beautiful town embedded in a rock that forms the gorge of the Júcar river. It is a surprising place of unexpected beauty since its location gets "little media coverage".

Vejer de la Frontera, Cadiz

Next to the famous Cadiz coast, the town of Vejer de la Frontera overwhelms with its white beauty. Its elevated location with respect to the environment already catches you as you approach it, and its tangled streets conquer you as soon as you let yourself get lost in them. It is, without a doubt, a must-see that is well worth giving up a day at the beach for.

Allariz, Ourense

This Galician town is little known because it is not usually included in the list of the most beautiful towns in Spain, but it is one of those unique corners that the interior of Galicia offers. And above all it is because of its idyllic location and how well the architecture has adapted to the environment, letting it be the protagonist. Surrounded by chestnut forests and on the banks of the Arnoia River, this town with a medieval layout is a mandatory stop if you travel to Galicia.

Laguardia, Alava

In the heart of Rioja Alavesa, surrounded by vineyards and wineries that offer a unique landscape, is the town of Laguardia, already in the province of Álava. Located on a hill, and surrounded by a great wall, it is a must stand just a stone's throw from Logroño.