Max Abroad : The Best of Spain

Part of this four hour route coincides with the Cañada Real de la Plata or Silver Route, and it allows us to get a spectacular panoramic view from the viewpoint which dominates the confluence of the river Tiétar and the Cardenal bridge.

The Monsfragorum (overgrown mountain) of the Romans, or Al-Mofrag (the abyss) of the Arabs, is an immense scrubland of slate and quartz, throwing up rocky outcrops 500 to 600 metres high, cloven into two halves by the River Tagus. Like an island in an ocean of holm oak forests, Monfragüe in north-east Cáceres, has seen cavemen and Vettones, legionaries and Visigoths, Moors and Christians…; they all passed through this lonely landscape, including the herds of the Mesta, leaving behind a castle, a handful of huts, and fertiliser for the plants.     

To hike in Monfragüe, go to Villarreal de San Carlos (71 kilometres from Cáceres via the EX-390 to Torrejón el Rubio, and then the EX-208 towards Plasencia), a town founded by Carlos III halfway between Plasencia and Trujillo as a night-time shelter to protect shepherds from wolves and bandits, on the spot now occupied by the Visitors' Centre. This is the start of the Castillo trail (Ruta del Castillo), a lovely four-hour walk, marked out with red stakes, through the heart of the national park. The path, which occasionally coincides with the Cañada Real de la Plata or Silver Route, takes you to the banks of the Tagus in less than half an hour, after passing by a viewing point overlooking the confluence of the River Tiétar and the bridge, Puente del Cardenal.

If the bridge is underwater, you will have to make do with the modern one a kilometre further on and cross over to the Fuente del Francés. There a sign will invite you to follow the steep path winding up to the chapel and castle of Monfragüe. This dense, shady forest contrasts with the sparse holm oaks, wild olives and shrubs on the southern side, where we will make our way down after the pleasure of scanning the endless horizon of this prehistoric terrain from the tower of the ruined Arab fortress. 

Also prehistoric are the Bronze Age paintings you can see on your way down (on the barer side) where the path curves shortly before meeting the road to the Salto del Gitano. And there is a prehistoric look to the many birds to be seen here, thanks to the observatory opposite the outcrop of Peñafalcón: Egyptian vultures, black storks, golden eagles… And the most imposing of all, the cinereous vulture, the largest bird of prey in Eurasia, with a wingspan of nearly three metres. The colony of more than 300 pairs here is the largest on the planet. At the bridge, go back towards the river and then you can head back to Villarreal de San Carlos following the same route.

In Cartagena fusion cuisine is age-old: Romans, Phoenicians and Arabs have left their mark on family recipes, based on a variety of ingredients that few regions can boast of having as it is considered to be one of the best vegetable gardens, bursting with an array of autochthonous varieties. This, together with a rich cuisine and culture, makes the gastronomy of Cartagena one of the most surprising. The best way to conquer the cuisine of Cartagena is, like in battles of old, through the port. Its fish market is supplied by two seas: the Mediterranean and the Mar Menor: grouper, gilthead bream, dentex, mullet, anchovies, crayfish, clams, prawns, whitebait..., the hard thing is choosing.

The oldest recipes in the area, Salazones (salted fish), also come from the sea. Fish was preserved this way back in the Bronze Age. Phoenicians and Romans extended this use to several types of fish: tuna, mullet, skipjack tuna, sardines, anchovies, ling or meagre, which come with fresh peas or tomatoes in the bars of Cartagena. The sea and the vegetable garden, the hallmarks of Cartagena.

To make the most of the flavours of the Mediterranean and the Mar Menor, a 'Caldero' is the best option. This is the name of the traditional rice dish that fishermen prepared over a fire on the beach. Rockfish or whitebait for flavour, with gilthead bream or mullet and, as they say, love and affection to prepare the broth by frying the ingredients in parts and stirring the rice until it's cooked to perfection. The fish is served in one dish and the rice in another, both accompanied by alioli. Purists require the dish to be presented on the table in a zinc or clay pot and served in a clay cup or bowl.

Another classic is Michirones. White beans eaten with cocktail sticks as a tapa or on the table during household celebrations. Michirones are another hallmark of gastronomy in Cartagena. They are stewed with chorizo, ham, pork fat, potatoes and chilli peppers. It's a good idea to have a chilled bottle of local wine nearby: the people here like their Michirones spicy. You can also find the cultural influence of the port in this typical dish. The food had to be able to withstand long journeys, hence the habit of cooking dry beans instead of fresh like in other areas of Murcia.

Los Exploradores are another characteristic food from Cartagena. The name of this dish indicates that its recipe was a result of an experiment, with a successful contrast between sweet and savoury, making it an exquisite dish that is hard to forget. Los Exploradores (the explorers), as they call it, are a kind of pasty filled with morcón sausage and egg or mince and coated in icing sugar.

Needless to say, you can't get up from the table without ordering un asiático (an Asian), a coffee made with condensed milk, brandy and Licor 43 (fruit and spice liqueur). It was first served in the early 20th century at the request of sailors from - you guessed it- Asia. There is even a competition for this Asian concoction: 'La ruta del asiático' (The asiático route). For two weeks all the bars in the city strive to make the best combination of the three liqueurs.

Cartagena is the perfect place to eat its traditional dishes 'a tajo parejo', as the locals say to describe eating heartily and in an orderly fashion...

All eyes are on two dishes: Cartagena-style octopus and San Antón rolls. The first is a dish of small rock octopus that are cooked on the large grills the bars bring out onto the street. The second is a dessert that requires you to stay on your toes: according to tradition "quien roba un rollo a san Antón, novios tendrá un montón" (she/he who steals a roll from San Antón will have boy/girlfriends a plenty). The rolls are offerings to the saint. At the San Antón festival, the saint kindly looks the other way.

 Anything for love.

The UK's refusal to add Spain to its list of safe destinations this summer is generating great uncertainty in the tourism sector. Despite the advance in vaccinations, this year national tourism may once again be the key to the season.

In fact, some autonomous communities have already launched proposals to promote reservations and visits by Spanish citizens. Galicia, Madrid, Cantabria or Andalusia offer a series of discounts and offers of up to 600 euros in tourist accommodation, restaurants, and leisure that will incentivise travel to their regions.

However, not all customers choose to enjoy their summer holidays on a towel by the sea. The magazine specialized in inland tourism, Escapada Rural, offers a selection of the best natural pools scattered throughout the country to take a dip these hot months ahead.

Garganta de los infiernos in Cáceres.

This natural enclave offers a series of pools with transparent water and some rapids which offer a whole lot of fun for all ages. They are very close to the Jerte Valley, known for its cherry blossoms, and access is completely free. Currently, due to the health situation, there is a capacity of 300 people in the nature reserve. In addition, access and parking are regulated without the possibility of booking in advance. From the tourist office, they warn that although you are allowed to go with pets they must be on a lead, on the other hand, access with motor vehicles is prohibited and they insist on the need to take care of the environment so leaving rubbish behind will imply a hefty fine from the authorities.

Chorreras de Cabriel in Cuenca

Less than an hour and a half from Cuenca, this natural bathing area through which the Cabriel River flows, offers imposing pools of blue and crystalline waters. This space was declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 2019. It is an area with waterfalls and pools of turquoise water, where you can go hiking, do water sports and nature tourism, especially bird watching. A great day out for the whole family. It is essential to come with a parking reservation, as that is how they regulate the capacity, this can be obtained from their own website.

Pozas Pou Clar in Valencia

These clean, turquoise water pools are located in Ontinyent, a town less than an hour from Valencia. The Clariano River runs through this river area and creates up to six different natural pools as it passes through the entire rocky area. It can be reached on foot, by bicycle or car from the municipality and at its entrance there is parking for vehicles. It is possible to bathe, have lunch on the indicated dates (between October and May, in the summer months it is prohibited) and enjoy nature. As in the rest of the locations, camping, barbecues or depositing waste is prohibited.

Arenas de San Pedro in Ávila

If what you are looking for is a more family and peaceful environment, the natural pools of Arenas De San Pedro are the key for this season. In the province of Ávila, approximately an hour and a half away is this wonderful destination. Its bathing area is shallower than others so it will be safer for the little ones in the family. Near the bathing area, there is a nearby car park with a capacity for 50 vehicles. In addition, in its surroundings, there is a meadow with grass where you can rest and outdoor showers, access stairs, and even a trampoline. In the vicinity of the municipality, there are also the Cuevas del Águila, a gem of geological heritage that allows you to go deep down into the interior of the Earth.