Max Abroad : The Best of Spain

Deep within the picturesque province of Cáceres, in the Extremadura region of Spain, the Royal Monastery of Santa María de Guadalupe stands as a testament to centuries of history, art, and faith. Overlooking a breathtaking valley and surrounded by majestic mountains, this UNESCO World Heritage site offers a unique blend of architectural styles, a rich historical narrative, and a profound spiritual atmosphere. The town of Guadalupe, which has grown around the Monastery since its foundation in 1337, adds to the charm with its traditional medieval buildings.

The Monastery is an exceptional example of an ensemble that encompasses a wide range of architectural styles, reflecting its long and storied past. The 14th and 15th-century Mudéjar church and cloister are particularly noteworthy, showcasing the intricate artistry of the period. Other architectural highlights include:

• The Basilica (Templo Mayor): The main church boasts a stunning Mudéjar façade, doors adorned with finely-worked bronze plaques, and an interior nave with richly ornamented vaulting and tombs.
• The Sacristy: Built between 1638 and 1647, the Sacristy is lavishly decorated and features a series of paintings by Zurbarán, as well as wall paintings that accentuate the austere lines of its architecture.
• The Chapel of Santa Catalina de Alejandría: This square building connects the Sacristy with the Reliquaries Chapel and features an octagonal cupola lit by a lantern. It houses remarkable 17th-century tombs and displays elaborate reliquaries and other works of art in its arcaded alcoves.
• The Camarín de la Virgen: A small octagonal building ¹ behind the presbytery, the Camarín is richly decorated in Baroque style. The upper storey, known as the "Chamber of the Virgin," features vaults adorned with plaster and stucco, and walls covered with paintings, including nine by Luca Giordano. It houses the famed statue of the Virgin of Guadalupe on a magnificent throne. 

• The Cloisters: The Mudéjar cloister, constructed in brick and painted in white and red, features a small chapel dating from 1405 and an impressive Plateresque portal from around 1520-24. The Gothic cloister has galleries on three sides with three tiers of arches, while the New Church, in a modified Baroque style, has three naves.

The Royal Monastery has played a significant role in Spain's history, particularly in its medieval and modern eras. It has been linked to the Crown of Castile since the reign of Alfonso XI. Its influence extended throughout the Iberian Peninsula, especially after the conquest of Granada, which led to the unification of all territories and the emergence of the Modern State.

The Monastery's impact on the evangelisation of the Americas was immense. Sanctuaries, institutions, and offerings were dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe, whose significance remains strong. The Monastery was also a leading cultural centre, fostering workshops and scientific activity. The Medical School of Guadalupe, first mentioned in 1451, and the School of Surgery contributed to the spread of knowledge in botany and medicine. Techniques in luxury goods and music were also applied and experimented with at the Monastery. Today, specific museums within the Monastery showcase this rich heritage.

The Royal Monastery of Santa María de Guadalupe is more than just a historical site; it is a living testament to faith and artistry. Its walls have witnessed centuries of devotion, and its beauty continues to inspire awe. It remains a significant pilgrimage destination for the Western world and Latin America, drawing visitors who seek spiritual solace and a connection to the past. The Monastery symbolises pivotal events in world history, particularly the expulsion of Muslim power from the Iberian Peninsula and Christopher Columbus's discovery of America in 1492. The statue of Santa María de Guadalupe became a powerful symbol of the Christianisation of much of the New World.

A visit to the Royal Monastery offers a unique opportunity to step back in time and experience the grandeur of Spanish history and the enduring power of faith. It is a place where art, architecture, and spirituality converge, leaving an indelible mark on all who enter its hallowed halls.

Imagine wandering through ancient stone alleyways, where every hidden courtyard, grand monument, and unexpected corner bursts forth in a riot of colour and fragrance. This isn't a dream; it's Girona during Temps de Flors, the city's spectacular annual flower festival. Held each spring, typically over nine days in mid-May, this remarkable event transforms the historic Catalan city into a living art gallery, where nature's beauty intertwines with centuries of history.

For anyone visiting Catalonia during this time, Temps de Flors offers a truly unique and enchanting experience, drawing flower enthusiasts, art lovers, and curious travellers from across the globe.

What Exactly is Girona Temps de Flors?

At its heart, Girona Temps de Flors (which translates to 'Flower Time') is an extraordinary exhibition of floral artistry set against the stunning backdrop of Girona's Barri Vell (Old Quarter). During the festival, numerous patios, monuments, gardens, and urban spaces – many normally closed to the public – are adorned with intricate and imaginative floral displays.

These aren't just simple bouquets; they are ambitious artistic installations crafted by talented florists, designers, and community groups. Each display tells a story, evokes an emotion, or simply celebrates the vibrant beauty of flowers. The contrast between the delicate, ephemeral blooms and the enduring stone of Girona's medieval architecture is part of what makes the festival so visually compelling. Visitors follow a suggested route, meandering through the labyrinthine streets, discovering one breathtaking creation after another.

Whilst the core of the festival remains centred around the historic Barri Vell, its popularity has seen it bloom outwards, with installations now appearing in various neighbourhoods across the city, allowing the floral magic to spread even further.

The story of Temps de Flors began modestly in 1954. It started as a small flower exhibition and competition organised by a few enthusiastic local women and held in the Saló de Descans of the Municipal Theatre. It proved popular, and in subsequent years, moved to larger, more emblematic locations like the Sant Pere de Galligants monastery and the Sant Domènec convent.

What started as a local showcase gradually gained momentum. A pivotal moment came when the decision was made to incorporate the city's privately owned patios and gardens into the exhibition route. This opened up hidden corners of the Barri Vell, allowing visitors a rare glimpse into these secluded spaces, now dramatically enhanced by floral art.

Over the decades, Temps de Flors evolved from a simple flower show into a major cultural event. It embraced artistic creativity, moving beyond traditional floral arrangements to incorporate contemporary design concepts and innovative installations. The festival became synonymous with Girona itself, a cornerstone of its cultural calendar and a powerful magnet for tourism, showcasing the city's heritage in a unique and beautiful way. Today, it stands as one of Spain's most beloved springtime celebrations.

Exploring the Floral Trail: A Feast for the Senses

The real joy of Temps de Flors lies in the exploration. Armed with a festival map (available online and throughout the city), visitors embark on a journey of discovery through the Barri Vell's charming streets. The route guides you to dozens of locations, each offering a different floral interpretation.

You might find yourself stepping into a centuries-old patio where cascades of wisteria frame an intricate tapestry woven from petals. Around another corner, the ancient Arab Baths might be adorned with minimalist floral sculptures that play with light and shadow. Grand staircases become rivers of colour, stone archways are festooned with garlands, and even humble doorways receive a touch of floral magic.

The creativity is boundless. Artists use a vast array of flowers, plants, and natural materials, often incorporating recycled elements or innovative techniques. Some installations are grand and dramatic, others are subtle and thought-provoking. The beauty is not just in the flowers themselves, but in how they interact with their surroundings – the textures, colours, and history of Girona's architecture. It’s a dialogue between nature, art, and heritage.

Be prepared for a sensory overload in the best possible way – the vibrant colours are a feast for the eyes, whilst the combined fragrances of countless blooms fill the air.

Beyond the Blooms: Music, Food, and Atmosphere

Temps de Flors is more than just the floral displays; the entire city embraces the festive spirit. Alongside the main event, Girona hosts a range of complementary activities:

Girona A Cappella Festival: Often coinciding with Temps de Flors, this festival fills the city's squares and corners with the sounds of vocal groups, adding a musical dimension to the visual spectacle.

Gastroflors: Local restaurants get creative, participating in Gastroflors. They offer special menus and dishes featuring edible flowers, adding a unique culinary twist to the festival experience. It's a chance to taste the flavours of spring alongside admiring its colours.

Other Events: Look out for special guided tours, workshops, competitions (like photography and window dressing), and open days at museums and cultural centres.

The overall atmosphere during Temps de Flors is one of vibrancy and shared enjoyment. The streets buzz with visitors, locals proudly showcase their city, and there's a palpable sense of celebration in the air.

Practical Tips for Your Visit

If you're planning to experience Girona Temps de Flors, here are a few tips:
Check the Dates: The festival usually takes place over nine consecutive days, including two weekends, in mid-May.

For 2025, the dates are 10th to 18th May.

Book Accommodation Early: Girona is a popular destination, and during Temps de Flors, hotels and apartments get booked up well in advance. Secure your accommodation as early as possible.
Visit Mid-Week: If possible, try to visit on a weekday. Weekends can get very crowded, especially in the narrow streets of the Barri Vell. Visiting mid-week generally allows for a more relaxed experience.
Wear Comfortable Shoes: You'll be doing a lot of walking, often on cobbled streets and up and down steps. Comfort is key!
Accessibility: Be aware that due to the historic nature of the Barri Vell, with its narrow streets, steps, and uneven surfaces, some areas might pose challenges for visitors with mobility issues. Check the official map for accessibility information on specific points.
Entry: One of the best things about Temps de Flors is that access to the vast majority of the floral displays and patios is completely free.
Getting There: Girona is well-connected. It has its own airport (Girona-Costa Brava Airport) served by budget airlines, and is easily reachable by high-speed train (AVE) from Barcelona (under 40 minutes) and France.

It’s a truly unforgettable experience that engages all the senses and leaves visitors with lasting memories of Girona at its most beautiful. Whether you're a dedicated gardener, an art enthusiast, or simply looking for a unique European city break, Temps de Flors is an event not to be missed. Plan your visit and prepare to be enchanted by Girona in full bloom.