Max Abroad : The Best of Spain

ALP, Girona

Summer is one of the most anticipated times for many and the heat continues to be a draw for many tourists. Rising temperatures cause all kinds of changes. Human beings begin to socialise in other ways, taking advantage of the greater number of hours of sunshine that all kinds of different activities entail at this time of year.

Spain is a world reference for tourism. Every year millions of people visit the country in search of innumerable offerings. Despite the fact that many seek sun and high temperatures in Spain, we can also find municipalities where they can escape from these in summer. The first town to which we must travel if we do not want to suffer the effects of the heat is Ezcaray. This municipality in La Rioja offers us an average summer temperature of 19 degrees, making it a great option.

Another great option is Griegos, in Teruel. This, in addition, has the distinction of being the coldest town in Spain during the summer season as its more than 1,500 meters above sea level in the center of the Sierra de Albarracín, a refuge against heat waves.

With an average temperature of 17.5 degrees in summer, Isaba, in Navarra, can also be a great escape. Thanks to its location in the Roncal Valley, temperatures do not rise excessively, making it a highly recommended option.

This also happens in León, specifically in Puebla de Lillo. The mountains ensure that the average summer temperature does not exceed 17 degrees, a real asset in summer.

With a totally different environment, we find the Cíes Islands in Galicia. Surrounded by water and sand, these have an average temperature of 14 degrees in summer.

Returning to the mountains we find Bellver de la Cerdanya. Barely 19 degrees in July make it a benchmark for escaping the heat in Spain. This Catalan town also has a large number of options such as adventure or sports tourism.

Also in Catalonia, we find another excellent option. Surrounded by nature Alp, in Girona, is a great municipality to escape the heat in summer. Lastly, the town of Cercedilla in Madrid is worth mentioning for its summer temperatures. This enclave registers an average temperature during the day that is around 11ºC minimum and around 20ºC maximum in summer, an ideal location for those who dislike the heat.

Arroz Negro, or "black rice," is a captivating and intensely flavourful dish that hails from the coastal regions of Spain, particularly Valencia. It's a vibrant cousin to paella, distinguished by its striking deep black colour, imparted by squid ink, and its rich taste, derived from a medley of fresh seafood. While it might look intimidating, the process of crafting this culinary masterpiece is incredibly rewarding, culminating in a dish that is both sophisticated and deeply comforting.

At its heart, traditional Arroz Negro celebrates fresh, high-quality ingredients cooked with patience and precision. The key to its depth of flavour lies in a seafood fumet and the careful layering of aromatics and seafood. If you're eager to bring a slice of Spanish culinary heritage to your kitchen, read on for a comprehensive guide to making authentic Arroz Negro, with a special note on adapting the method if you don't possess a traditional paella pan.

The Foundation: A Superior Seafood Fumet

Before you even think about the rice, the first and most crucial step for any authentic Valencian rice dish is a magnificent fumet. This seafood stock is the soul of your Arroz Negro, lending it an incomparable depth of flavour that no store-bought alternative can truly replicate. Don't skimp on this step; it's what elevates the dish from good to truly exceptional. That said, if you don't have time or the patience, you can get a good seafood fumet at Mercadona or from the brand Aneto.

Ingredients for the Seafood Fumet:

300 grams of prawn heads or raw king prawns
500 grams of spines and heads of white fish (such as hake or monkfish)
1 onion
2-3 cloves of garlic
1 leek chopped
2 carrots chopped
2 celery stalks chopped
150 millilitres of white wine (dry white wine is recommended)
150 milliliters of cognac or brandy
Virgin olive oil
Salt
Pepper
A bay leaf
Optional additions for flavour: parsley, saffron, rock fish, or cheaper seafood like mantis shrimp.

Steps for making the Fumet:

1. Add Seafood Elements: Add the fish heads and bones, along with the prawn shells and heads. Stir well and cook for another 5 minutes, allowing them to release their aromas. Squash the heads so they release their juices.

2. Once the seafood is golden brown, add the white wine and increase the heat to evaporate the alcohol.
Add the cognac or brandy and flambé until the flame extinguishes. Exercise caution and avoid turning on the extractor fan during this step.
3. Add the onion, carrots, celery, and garlic. Sauté gently for about 5-7 minutes until softened but not browned. Add the salt, pepper, and bay leaf. Cover the ingredients with water. Cook the broth over medium heat.
4. When the broth begins to boil, remove any scum that forms on the surface to ensure a clear broth. Do not cook for more than 30 minutes, as overcooking can distort the flavour, making it bitter or metallic.
5. Some prefer to finish the fumet by blending it for a thicker, more intense broth - I do this. If you choose to do this, first remove any thick bones, fish, bay leaf, and aromatic herbs to prevent a bitter taste and blend with a hand blender.
6. Carefully strain the fumet through a fine-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth (if you have it) into a clean pot or bowl. Discard the solids. You should have a clear, fragrant seafood stock. Keep it warm.

The Heart of the Matter: Arroz Negro con Calamares y Gambas

With your glorious fumet ready, you're now poised to create the star of the show. The traditional Valencian method for rice dishes prioritises the 'socarrat' – a delicate, slightly crispy caramelised layer of rice at the bottom of the pan, which is a highly prized textural element.

Ingredients for Arroz Negro (Serves 4-6):

Approx. 400g short-grain rice (Bomba or Calasparra are ideal, but Arborio can be a good substitute if those are unavailable)

2 medium squid, cleaned, tentacles reserved, bodies cut into 1cm rings

250g raw prawns, peeled and deveined (reserve shells for fumet)

2-3 sachets (approx. 8-12g total) squid ink

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 ripe tomato, grated (discard skin)

1/2 red bell pepper, finely diced (optional, but adds colour and sweetness)

A pinch of saffron threads (optional, but enhances colour and flavour)

Approx. 1 litre warm seafood fumet (you might need a little more or less)

Extra virgin olive oil

Salt to taste

Fresh parsley, chopped, for garnish

Lemon wedges for serving

Equipment:

A traditional paella pan (a wide, shallow, two-handled pan) OR

A large, shallow oven-safe pan or baking dish (for the oven method)

Method (Traditional Paella Pan):

Prepare the Sofrito: Heat a generous amount of olive oil in your paella pan over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and bell pepper (if using) and sauté gently until softened and translucent, about 8-10 minutes.

Add Squid: Increase the heat slightly and add the squid rings and tentacles. Cook for 5-7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they turn opaque and start to release their liquid. The squid will initially release water, which will then evaporate, allowing them to brown slightly.

Incorporate Garlic and Tomato: Add the minced garlic and grated tomato. Cook for another 5 minutes, stirring, until the tomato has reduced and the mixture is fragrant. This is your 'sofrito' – the flavour base.

Bloom the Saffron: If using saffron, lightly toast the threads in a dry pan for a few seconds, then crush them and add to the sofrito.

Add Rice: Pour in the rice and stir well to coat every grain with the sofrito and oil. Toast the rice for 1-2 minutes, stirring constantly. This helps the rice grains absorb flavour and prevents them from becoming too sticky.

Introduce Squid Ink and Fumet: Carefully mix in the squid ink until it's fully incorporated, turning the rice a dramatic black. Pour in about 800ml of the warm fumet. Stir gently to ensure the rice is evenly distributed. Do not stir the rice extensively after this point, as it can release starch and prevent the development of the socarrat.

Simmer and Cook: Bring the liquid to a rolling boil, then reduce the heat to medium-high. Let the rice simmer uncovered for about 10-12 minutes, allowing the liquid to reduce and the rice to cook. You'll see bubbles forming evenly across the surface.

Add Prawns: Once most of the liquid has been absorbed but the rice is still a bit soupy on top, artfully arrange the raw prawns on top of the rice. They will cook through with the remaining heat.

The Socarrat Stage: Continue to cook for another 5-8 minutes. Listen for a gentle crackling sound, which indicates the formation of the socarrat. You can gently test the bottom with a spoon to ensure a thin, crispy layer has formed. Be careful not to burn it!

Rest: Once cooked, remove the paella pan from the heat. Cover loosely with foil or a clean kitchen towel and let it rest for 5-10 minutes. This allows the flavours to meld and the rice to finish cooking through steam.

Serve: Garnish with fresh parsley and serve immediately with lemon wedges on the side. A dollop of aioli (garlic mayonnaise) is also a classic accompaniment.

The Oven-Cooked Method: No Paella Pan? No Problem!
If you don't have a traditional paella pan, fear not! You can still achieve a fantastic Arroz Negro using an oven-safe pan or baking dish. While the socarrat might be slightly different, the flavour will be equally rich and delicious.

Method (Oven-Cooked):

Prepare Sofrito and Rice (Stovetop): Follow steps 1-6 of the "Traditional Paella Pan" method in a large, shallow, oven-safe pan or cast-iron skillet on your hob. Ensure the pan is suitable for both stovetop and oven use.

Transfer to Oven: Once the rice, squid ink, and fumet are combined and brought to a boil on the hob, carefully transfer the pan to a preheated oven at 180°C (160°C fan / Gas Mark 4).

Bake: Bake for 15 minutes.

Add Prawns: After 15 minutes, remove the pan from the oven. Arrange the raw prawns on top of the rice.

Continue Baking: Return to the oven and bake for another 5-10 minutes, or until the rice has absorbed most of the liquid and the prawns are cooked through. The rice should still be moist but not swimming in liquid.

Rest: Once cooked, remove from the oven. Cover loosely with foil and let it rest for 5-10 minutes as per the traditional method.

Serve: Garnish with fresh chopped parsley and lemon wedges.

Tips for Success:
Quality Ingredients: The success of Arroz Negro hinges on fresh, high-quality seafood. Source your squid and prawns from a reputable fishmonger.

Don't Over-Stir: Once the rice is added and the fumet is in, resist the urge to stir constantly. This is crucial for developing the socarrat and ensuring the rice cooks evenly without becoming gluey.

Heat Management: For the traditional method, mastering the heat is key to the socarrat. Start higher, then reduce, and finally, slightly increase at the end for that perfect crispy bottom.

Adjust Fumet: The amount of fumet needed can vary slightly depending on your rice and pan. Start with the recommended amount and add a little more if the rice is still too firm, or if it's drying out too quickly. But don't move the rice.

Serving: Arroz Negro is best enjoyed immediately after resting.

Arroz Negro is more than just a dish, the aroma of the sea, and the layers of exquisite flavour make it a truly memorable meal. Whether you opt for the traditional paella pan or adapt it for your oven, the effort put into this Valencian treasure will be richly rewarded. Enjoy the journey into the heart of Spanish cuisine!

The Ancient Synagogue of Barcelona is located in the centre of the city. It is believed to be the oldest synagogue in Europe. Archaeological investigations show that the original structure of the building was built in the third or fourth century; whether this structure was the synagogue cannot be said with certainty. After many centuries of use for other purposes, the building was re-opened as a synagogue and museum in 2002. No congregation prays regularly at the Sinagoga Major, but it is used for festive occasions. The building was significantly expanded during the 13th century. Medieval Barcelona is known to have had several synagogues, and the main synagogue was certainly in the immediate area. King James, I visited the synagogue in 1263 at the conclusion of the Barcelona Disputation. Shlomo ben Aderet served as the rabbi of the Sinagoga Major for 50 years.  

It is believed that the original building was freestanding. To the north, it adjoined with what was then Escola Mayor Street and to the east with Marlet Street. The building ran southerly along “de Les Dones” Street, where, in the 19th century a narrow edifice was built. To the west, there was probably an atrium, the site where later, around the 17th century, the stairs to the present-day building were erected. In the northern exterior wall, there is an effigy of Santo Domingo. Emblematic buildings in the Jewish Quarters were Christianized with the effigy of a saint. The bloodiest day in the history of Barcelona’s Jewish community was August 5, 1391. On that day, the day celebrated as Santo Domingo, the Quarters were attacked.

After the uprising, the street name was changed to Sant Doménec. The building, along with all of the community’s belongings, passed into the hands of the king.

We find ourselves before a building whose foundations date back to Roman times. In addition, there are superimposed high-medieval constructions and a central structure from the 13th century. Also visible are 17th-century modifications made when the upper-level apartments were built.

At the end of 1995, the former owner put the property up for sale. The space was to be utilized as a bar. Before this lamentable eventuality, Mr Laffa decided to purchase the property with the hope of bringing to light its historic past and preserving it from use that would not dignify its extensive past.

Thus began the collaboration between Mr Riera and Mr Laffa, with a common objective: to salvage a significant period of Catalan history from oblivion through the rehabilitation of the former Major Synagogue space.

Deep within the picturesque province of Cáceres, in the Extremadura region of Spain, the Royal Monastery of Santa María de Guadalupe stands as a testament to centuries of history, art, and faith. Overlooking a breathtaking valley and surrounded by majestic mountains, this UNESCO World Heritage site offers a unique blend of architectural styles, a rich historical narrative, and a profound spiritual atmosphere. The town of Guadalupe, which has grown around the Monastery since its foundation in 1337, adds to the charm with its traditional medieval buildings.

The Monastery is an exceptional example of an ensemble that encompasses a wide range of architectural styles, reflecting its long and storied past. The 14th and 15th-century Mudéjar church and cloister are particularly noteworthy, showcasing the intricate artistry of the period. Other architectural highlights include:

• The Basilica (Templo Mayor): The main church boasts a stunning Mudéjar façade, doors adorned with finely-worked bronze plaques, and an interior nave with richly ornamented vaulting and tombs.
• The Sacristy: Built between 1638 and 1647, the Sacristy is lavishly decorated and features a series of paintings by Zurbarán, as well as wall paintings that accentuate the austere lines of its architecture.
• The Chapel of Santa Catalina de Alejandría: This square building connects the Sacristy with the Reliquaries Chapel and features an octagonal cupola lit by a lantern. It houses remarkable 17th-century tombs and displays elaborate reliquaries and other works of art in its arcaded alcoves.
• The Camarín de la Virgen: A small octagonal building ¹ behind the presbytery, the Camarín is richly decorated in Baroque style. The upper storey, known as the "Chamber of the Virgin," features vaults adorned with plaster and stucco, and walls covered with paintings, including nine by Luca Giordano. It houses the famed statue of the Virgin of Guadalupe on a magnificent throne. 

• The Cloisters: The Mudéjar cloister, constructed in brick and painted in white and red, features a small chapel dating from 1405 and an impressive Plateresque portal from around 1520-24. The Gothic cloister has galleries on three sides with three tiers of arches, while the New Church, in a modified Baroque style, has three naves.

The Royal Monastery has played a significant role in Spain's history, particularly in its medieval and modern eras. It has been linked to the Crown of Castile since the reign of Alfonso XI. Its influence extended throughout the Iberian Peninsula, especially after the conquest of Granada, which led to the unification of all territories and the emergence of the Modern State.

The Monastery's impact on the evangelisation of the Americas was immense. Sanctuaries, institutions, and offerings were dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe, whose significance remains strong. The Monastery was also a leading cultural centre, fostering workshops and scientific activity. The Medical School of Guadalupe, first mentioned in 1451, and the School of Surgery contributed to the spread of knowledge in botany and medicine. Techniques in luxury goods and music were also applied and experimented with at the Monastery. Today, specific museums within the Monastery showcase this rich heritage.

The Royal Monastery of Santa María de Guadalupe is more than just a historical site; it is a living testament to faith and artistry. Its walls have witnessed centuries of devotion, and its beauty continues to inspire awe. It remains a significant pilgrimage destination for the Western world and Latin America, drawing visitors who seek spiritual solace and a connection to the past. The Monastery symbolises pivotal events in world history, particularly the expulsion of Muslim power from the Iberian Peninsula and Christopher Columbus's discovery of America in 1492. The statue of Santa María de Guadalupe became a powerful symbol of the Christianisation of much of the New World.

A visit to the Royal Monastery offers a unique opportunity to step back in time and experience the grandeur of Spanish history and the enduring power of faith. It is a place where art, architecture, and spirituality converge, leaving an indelible mark on all who enter its hallowed halls.

Imagine wandering through ancient stone alleyways, where every hidden courtyard, grand monument, and unexpected corner bursts forth in a riot of colour and fragrance. This isn't a dream; it's Girona during Temps de Flors, the city's spectacular annual flower festival. Held each spring, typically over nine days in mid-May, this remarkable event transforms the historic Catalan city into a living art gallery, where nature's beauty intertwines with centuries of history.

For anyone visiting Catalonia during this time, Temps de Flors offers a truly unique and enchanting experience, drawing flower enthusiasts, art lovers, and curious travellers from across the globe.

What Exactly is Girona Temps de Flors?

At its heart, Girona Temps de Flors (which translates to 'Flower Time') is an extraordinary exhibition of floral artistry set against the stunning backdrop of Girona's Barri Vell (Old Quarter). During the festival, numerous patios, monuments, gardens, and urban spaces – many normally closed to the public – are adorned with intricate and imaginative floral displays.

These aren't just simple bouquets; they are ambitious artistic installations crafted by talented florists, designers, and community groups. Each display tells a story, evokes an emotion, or simply celebrates the vibrant beauty of flowers. The contrast between the delicate, ephemeral blooms and the enduring stone of Girona's medieval architecture is part of what makes the festival so visually compelling. Visitors follow a suggested route, meandering through the labyrinthine streets, discovering one breathtaking creation after another.

Whilst the core of the festival remains centred around the historic Barri Vell, its popularity has seen it bloom outwards, with installations now appearing in various neighbourhoods across the city, allowing the floral magic to spread even further.

The story of Temps de Flors began modestly in 1954. It started as a small flower exhibition and competition organised by a few enthusiastic local women and held in the Saló de Descans of the Municipal Theatre. It proved popular, and in subsequent years, moved to larger, more emblematic locations like the Sant Pere de Galligants monastery and the Sant Domènec convent.

What started as a local showcase gradually gained momentum. A pivotal moment came when the decision was made to incorporate the city's privately owned patios and gardens into the exhibition route. This opened up hidden corners of the Barri Vell, allowing visitors a rare glimpse into these secluded spaces, now dramatically enhanced by floral art.

Over the decades, Temps de Flors evolved from a simple flower show into a major cultural event. It embraced artistic creativity, moving beyond traditional floral arrangements to incorporate contemporary design concepts and innovative installations. The festival became synonymous with Girona itself, a cornerstone of its cultural calendar and a powerful magnet for tourism, showcasing the city's heritage in a unique and beautiful way. Today, it stands as one of Spain's most beloved springtime celebrations.

Exploring the Floral Trail: A Feast for the Senses

The real joy of Temps de Flors lies in the exploration. Armed with a festival map (available online and throughout the city), visitors embark on a journey of discovery through the Barri Vell's charming streets. The route guides you to dozens of locations, each offering a different floral interpretation.

You might find yourself stepping into a centuries-old patio where cascades of wisteria frame an intricate tapestry woven from petals. Around another corner, the ancient Arab Baths might be adorned with minimalist floral sculptures that play with light and shadow. Grand staircases become rivers of colour, stone archways are festooned with garlands, and even humble doorways receive a touch of floral magic.

The creativity is boundless. Artists use a vast array of flowers, plants, and natural materials, often incorporating recycled elements or innovative techniques. Some installations are grand and dramatic, others are subtle and thought-provoking. The beauty is not just in the flowers themselves, but in how they interact with their surroundings – the textures, colours, and history of Girona's architecture. It’s a dialogue between nature, art, and heritage.

Be prepared for a sensory overload in the best possible way – the vibrant colours are a feast for the eyes, whilst the combined fragrances of countless blooms fill the air.

Beyond the Blooms: Music, Food, and Atmosphere

Temps de Flors is more than just the floral displays; the entire city embraces the festive spirit. Alongside the main event, Girona hosts a range of complementary activities:

Girona A Cappella Festival: Often coinciding with Temps de Flors, this festival fills the city's squares and corners with the sounds of vocal groups, adding a musical dimension to the visual spectacle.

Gastroflors: Local restaurants get creative, participating in Gastroflors. They offer special menus and dishes featuring edible flowers, adding a unique culinary twist to the festival experience. It's a chance to taste the flavours of spring alongside admiring its colours.

Other Events: Look out for special guided tours, workshops, competitions (like photography and window dressing), and open days at museums and cultural centres.

The overall atmosphere during Temps de Flors is one of vibrancy and shared enjoyment. The streets buzz with visitors, locals proudly showcase their city, and there's a palpable sense of celebration in the air.

Practical Tips for Your Visit

If you're planning to experience Girona Temps de Flors, here are a few tips:
Check the Dates: The festival usually takes place over nine consecutive days, including two weekends, in mid-May.

For 2025, the dates are 10th to 18th May.

Book Accommodation Early: Girona is a popular destination, and during Temps de Flors, hotels and apartments get booked up well in advance. Secure your accommodation as early as possible.
Visit Mid-Week: If possible, try to visit on a weekday. Weekends can get very crowded, especially in the narrow streets of the Barri Vell. Visiting mid-week generally allows for a more relaxed experience.
Wear Comfortable Shoes: You'll be doing a lot of walking, often on cobbled streets and up and down steps. Comfort is key!
Accessibility: Be aware that due to the historic nature of the Barri Vell, with its narrow streets, steps, and uneven surfaces, some areas might pose challenges for visitors with mobility issues. Check the official map for accessibility information on specific points.
Entry: One of the best things about Temps de Flors is that access to the vast majority of the floral displays and patios is completely free.
Getting There: Girona is well-connected. It has its own airport (Girona-Costa Brava Airport) served by budget airlines, and is easily reachable by high-speed train (AVE) from Barcelona (under 40 minutes) and France.

It’s a truly unforgettable experience that engages all the senses and leaves visitors with lasting memories of Girona at its most beautiful. Whether you're a dedicated gardener, an art enthusiast, or simply looking for a unique European city break, Temps de Flors is an event not to be missed. Plan your visit and prepare to be enchanted by Girona in full bloom.