Max Abroad : The Best of Spain

To the northeast of the province of Teruel, stands the small town of Beceite, surrounded by mountain ranges and a privileged setting. Even nature itself crosses the town with the Matarrañana riverbed, leaving waterfalls and natural pools in its wake along the streets of the town. The region of Matarraña is one of the coolest to enjoy the summer in Aragon.

The deposits found in Beceite show that the area was inhabited since the Bronze Age, while two sections of the Roman road that linked the towns of Dertosa and Caesaraugusta, currently Tortosa and Zaragoza, are still preserved from Roman times. In addition, since the Middle Ages, the town was known for its clean waters and its good location.

Starting in the 18th century, Beceite experienced a period of splendour thanks to its paper industry. In this way, he became one of the main producers of paper in Spain, even manufacturing it for the Royal Mint and for the Royal Tapestry Factory, where Francisco de Goya painted some of his creations.

The well-cared-for historic centre of Beceite is a reflection of its long history. Some constructions stand out here, such as the paper mills, where this material was manufactured by hand; the 15th-century stone bridge that crosses the river, or the church of San Bartolomé, a baroque work carried out between the 17th and 18th centuries.

In addition, we do not have to move very far from the centre of the town to enjoy the nature of the place, since next to the streets, the course of the Matarrañana River gives us refreshing natural pools where we can bathe and escape the heat.

Here we find the Font de la Rabosa, a series of shallow pools and waterfalls created by the erosion of water in the limestone rock. And following the course of the river a few meters further south, we encounter another river pool that is much larger and better adapted for bathing.

On the other hand, if we want to enter a much more natural environment, less than 20 minutes from the town we will come across the spectacular landscape of Parrizal, located within the Puertos de Beceite, a mountainous massif crossed by rivers and ravines.

We will be able to explore this enclave through a hiking route that begins very close to the town and runs parallel to the Matarraña riverbed, which we will cross by means of footbridges built over small pools. The crossing ends at Los Estrechos, where the waters of the river slip between imposing 60-meter-high walls and stone needles named Les Gubies.

<Foto Josep Maria Aragonés>

Batisielles, with its crystalline lake set in a green meadow and its creek winding through rhododendrons, black pines and tall and jagged mountains such as the Tucas de Lxeia and the Agujas de Perramó, is not just the definitive postcard of the Huesca Pyrenees: it is the photo that could be shown to an extraterrestrial to show them how beautiful our world is and make them envious. Logically, it is also one of the most popular and frequented mountain routes on which you cannot get lost, because it starts in the Estós Valley car park, three kilometres above Benasque, and at all times follows the red and white painted marks of the GR-11.2 trail.

After two hours of walking, first, on a forest track and then on a steep, stony trail, the lake is reached. There there is a high mountain ambience and breathtaking views that will take up all the memory in your camera, because for photographers, Batisielles is addictive.

From the small lake, the route can be taken further to the larger lake of Batisielles (one hour) or to those of Escarpinosa (45 minutes). Both options are signposted. The words of the French count Henry Russell, who toured this area of solitary stone, water and sky in the second half of the 19th century, still express what the mountaineer feels today: What earthly paradises! The lakes of Escarpinosa, the immense forests that surround them and the irresistible enchantment of these lost lakes in the faraway deserts of the Pyrenees, hidden among the firs, unknown to the masses, in which wild pyramids 3,000 metres high, immense fields of snow and the mysterious world of the stars can be seen! I hope that nature preserves here for a long time, even forever, its blanket of flowers, its grace and virginity.

Before or after climbing to Batisielles, visit the village of Benasque. It has a quaint old town of narrow streets, grey stone houses and thick slate roofs with Roman-style paving. Here you will see the Renaissance church of Santa María la Mayor, the palace of the counts of Ribagorza (16th century), the house of Marcial Río (17th century), the ancestral Pyrenean home of Fauye and the Infanzona of Juste (15th century), the latter with a large crenellated turret. The restaurants in Benasque serve a variety of game, trout and mushrooms, which are abundant in the mountains.

A large number of pastores (bull 'shepherds') cover the entire bull run. They place themselves behind the bulls, with their only protection being a long stick. Their main role is to stop the odd idiot from inciting the bulls from behind, to avoid the bulls turning round and running backwards, and to help any bulls that have stopped or have been separated from their companions to continue running towards the bullring.

The six fighting bulls that will take part in the evening bullfight start the run accompanied by an initial group of mansos, which act as 'guides' to help the bulls cover the route. Two minutes after leaving the corral in Santo Domingo, a second group of bullocks (the so-called 'sweep-up" group), which are slower and smaller than the first one, are let out to lead any bulls that might have stopped or been left behind in the bull run towards the bullring.

The encierro is an unrepeatable experience for spectators and runners alike. It is a spectacle that is defined by the level of risk and the physical ability of the runners.

What is not allowed in the bull run :

People under 18 years of age, who must not run or participate.

Crossing police barriers placed to ensure that the run goes off smoothly.

Standing in areas and places along the route that have been expressly prohibited by the municipal police force.

Before the bulls are released, waiting in corners, blind spots, doorways or in entrances to other establishments located along the run.

Leaving doors of shops or entrances to apartments open along the route.

The responsibility for ensuring these doors are closed lies with the owners or tenants of the properties.

Being in the bull run while drunk, under the effects of drugs or in any other improper manner.

Carrying objects that are unsuitable for the run to take place correctly.

Wearing inappropriate clothes or footwear for the run. Inciting the bulls or attracting their attention in any manner, and for whatever reason, along the route of the run or in the bullring.

Running backwards towards the bulls or running behind them.

Holding, harassing or maltreating the bulls and stopping them from moving or being led to the pens in the bullring.

Stopping along the run and staying on the fence, barriers or in doorways in such a way that the run or the safety of other runners is jeopardised.

Taking photographs inside the run, or from the fences or barriers without due authorisation.

Carrying objects that are unsuitable for the good order and security of the bull run.

Installing elements that invade horizontal, vertical or aerial space along the bull run, unless expressly authorised by the Mayor's Office.

Any other action that could hamper the bull run from taking place normally.

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BEST TIME TO VISIT:  6 JULY TO 14 JULY

In the Guide to the "Most Beautiful Towns in Spain",  there are a total of 104 towns listed. All of them are idyllic places to plan a getaway or make a stop-off or a day trip if you are in the area this summer. Here is a selection I have made of some of the "less common" beautiful towns on that list, not necessarily on the Top 10 lists, but definitely worth visiting nonetheless!

Lastres, Asturias

In Asturias, there are idyllic coastal spots such as Tazones or Ribadesella, for example, but Lastres is really special. Its 16th-century whaling district, its typical houses perched on the cliff and the walk descending from the top of the town to the port are unmissable.

Frigiliana, Malaga

There are so many white villages in Andalusia that are worth visiting that a list would have to be made just for them. Frigiliana serves as an example, located in the region of Axarquia, which preserves one of the most valuable historical centres of Arab origin in Spain.

Frias, Burgos

This small town hanging from a rock in the province of Burgos is worthy of being a movie location. Located in the heart of the Montes Obarenes Natural Park, its panoramic view is impressive.

Besalu, Girona

I could have chosen Cadaqués or any of the towns that make up the so-called Garrotxa region, all of them worthy of entering this list, but Besalú is a magnificent representation of the beauty of the entire province of Girona. It has one of the best preserved medieval ensembles in Catalonia. In fact, it was declared, in 1966, a historical-artistic complex due to its great architectural value, and it is enough to see a couple of photos to know that you have to set foot on its streets at least once in your life.

Fornalutx, Majorca

 If you are lucky enough to travel to Mallorca soon, you have to give up at least one day on the beach to enjoy the Tramuntana mountains and the idyllic villages located in its heart. Dèia, Sóller and, above all, Fornalutx make up a wonderful enclave. The latter is quiet, with its characteristic stone-carved buildings and surrounding orange and lemon trees.

Comillas, Cantabria

 Santillana del Mar, Potes, Bárcena Mayor… The list of must-see towns in Cantabria is very long but I opted for Comillas for its location and the unique beauty of its peculiarities. And there are few places where you can see Gaudí's work outside of Catalonia, Comillas is one of them, surely the best.

Alcala del Jucar, Albacete

In a quiet area of ​​the province of Albacete, close to the province of Valencia, is this beautiful town embedded in a rock that forms the gorge of the Júcar river. It is a surprising place of unexpected beauty since its location gets "little media coverage".

Vejer de la Frontera, Cadiz

Next to the famous Cadiz coast, the town of Vejer de la Frontera overwhelms with its white beauty. Its elevated location with respect to the environment already catches you as you approach it, and its tangled streets conquer you as soon as you let yourself get lost in them. It is, without a doubt, a must-see that is well worth giving up a day at the beach for.

Allariz, Ourense

This Galician town is little known because it is not usually included in the list of the most beautiful towns in Spain, but it is one of those unique corners that the interior of Galicia offers. And above all it is because of its idyllic location and how well the architecture has adapted to the environment, letting it be the protagonist. Surrounded by chestnut forests and on the banks of the Arnoia River, this town with a medieval layout is a mandatory stop if you travel to Galicia.

Laguardia, Alava

In the heart of Rioja Alavesa, surrounded by vineyards and wineries that offer a unique landscape, is the town of Laguardia, already in the province of Álava. Located on a hill, and surrounded by a great wall, it is a must stand just a stone's throw from Logroño.

Humanity has been characterized throughout history by building all kinds of buildings. With multiple purposes, among them, the adoration of divine figures or veneration of the leaders to achieve posterity.

Spain has countless places within its borders where there are authentic and magnificent buildings envied throughout the world. Every year thousands of tourists, both Spanish and foreign, decide to visit the most characteristic buildings of Spain, something that has led this country to be one of the leading nations in this area.

History or monuments are usually one of the main attractions of the country that, together with the sun and sand, make up a varied tourist offering. Spain also has thousands of places to visit if you are in search of unique curiosities, such as the fact that it is one of the nations with the largest number of World Heritage Sites.

Among all the wonders that the country hides, there is a singular building that has been abandoned since 1975. The Pyramid of the Italians is a unique structure in Spain that was built in 1939 to commemorate the combatants of the transalpine country in the Civil War. 

Although these buildings are rightfully very famous in other countries such as Egypt or Mexico, in Spain this type of construction only has one representation. Thanks to the help that Benito Mussolini gave Franco during the Civil War, the Spanish dictator decided to honour the Italians who fell in the war.

This construction of more than 20 meters in height has a typical pyramidal structure covered with limestone plates. It is located in Burgos, in the Valdebezana Valley, Castilla y León, where its structure stands out above the landscape due to its unique shape.

The pyramid was inaugurated on August 26 to commemorate the victory over the Republicans in the Battle of Santander. Franco had the pyramid built to honour the fallen soldiers in 1937 whose architect was the Italian Pietro Giovanni Bergaminio.

In the early years, the pyramid was used to shelter more than 300 Italian soldiers who fell in the war, although in 1975 the Italian government claimed the bodies. From that moment on, the construction has been empty, although some still commemorate those soldiers today.

The main reason behind its construction was to bury the Italian soldiers with a grand inaugural ceremony led by the Foreign Minister and Mussolini's son-in-law at the site. Today the niches are still present in the pyramid with the plaques of the names of the deceased who occupied the place even though they are empty.

Summer is here and it's time to enjoy this wonderful natural enclave if you happen to be in the area...

The Pou Clar, is the most important river section Ontinyent has, and is of great value, as much for the landscape, as for the wildlife it supports. The river Clariano has its source here and the first section of its course is marked by a series of pools and waterfalls, which have all been sculpted by the water and go to make up an attractive area, much used by the local people. Over the generations, each pool has acquired a name; The Pool of Slaves, The Clear Pool, The Frozen Pool, The Side Pool, The Dark Pool and finally The Pool of Horses. There is easy access to the Pozo Claro and the visitor can walk along the whole section, as they enjoy the contrasts of colour in the rock formations and water and maybe take a refreshing summer swim in the pools.

How to get there from Ontinyent:

• On foot or by bike. Take the Camino del Llombo which comes out onto the Western bypass and continue until you come to the old Alba factory. Turn right here and pick up the Alba track which takes you past the house of the same name. Follow the track amongst the trees and through the ravine until you come out at the Pou Clar. The route is not marked.

• By car. Take the CV-81 Ontinyent-Bocairent road and at the crossroads for Fontanars, turn right and park. Access to the Pou Clar is in front of the car park.

The area is very near (about 500 meters) to the beginning of a footpath PR V-121 which eventually leads to Bocairent (about an hour). This footpath also takes us to Vullgam surrounded by mills, trees and the distant murmur of water in the Barranco de Los Naranjos.

In the opposite direction and starting from the last pool, walk down a stairway and you come to a picnic area under pine trees. Well worth a visit.

The volcanic island of La Palma seems to be painted green due to a deep shroud of a prehistoric forest. Connect with nature under some of the world's clearest skies, relax on its welcoming beaches or hike through deep gorges and past volcanoes. 

La Palma is the Canary island that was a finalist in the EDEN programme (European Destinations of Excellence) of the European Commission, in recognition of its sustainable tourism offer. This destination has been declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO for its numerous protected natural spaces considered ecological treasures. These are places that you cannot miss if you decide to visit the area.

Also known as the “Isla Bonita’’, La Palma is the greenest spot in the whole of the Canary archipelago. If you are a nature lover and you have a bit of an adventurous spirit, you will really feel at home here. You will be able to enjoy a genuine natural museum, whether you are with your partner, family or friends. 

La Palma's trails take you past waterfalls and up to the island's peaks. Once you reach the top, look up. The night sky is unforgettable. Clear skies and strict light pollution laws mean that La Palma is such a fantastic place for star gazing and astronomy that is has earned a Starlight award.

The advantage of visiting this little piece of the Atlantic is that it offers an attractive balance, both on the coast and in the mountains. Here you will be able to lose yourself in the lush forests and appreciate the steep surfaces, which will take you to beaches of gleaming, black sand where you can walk and relax.

A good way to start is to enter into the heart of La Palma where you will find the Caldera de Taburiente National Park, an underwater crater created by eruptions and erosion, a real visual spectacle that is well worth your attention.

       [Photographs by Saul Santos @  www.santossaul.com   http://www.santossaul.com]

If what you want is to reach the clouds you can travel along high mountain ranges, including Roque de los Muchachos, which boasts one of the most modern astrophysical observatories in the world. A great idea for looking at the stars from a height.

When you have finished exploring inside, you can go to the coast to enjoy the shoreline, whose entire shape has been moulded at the whim of the volcanic lava coming from the great volcanic chain of Cumbre Vieja. Once there you only need to worry about inhaling the sea breeze and admiring the precipitous landscape dotted with small coves and cliffs.

The art of this island not only resides in nature, but you can also find it in the numerous places of archaeological interest, hermitages, churches and museums. In particular, you must not to miss the historical site of Santa Cruz de La Palma.

Once you have arrived, you can learn about its island culture and the traditions such as “The Indianos in Carnival’’ and the Fiestas Lustrales festival, also known as the Bajada de la Virgen de las Nieves, which is celebrated every five years.

If you plan your visit during the first fortnight in July, you will be able to live the Semana Grande (Big Week) and the Semana Chica (Small Week), full of events and festivities. Worth a special mention is the Danza de Los Enanos (The Dance of the Dwarves), a deeply rooted tradition which will be repeated with a new edition in 2015.

You must not forget about the textile crafts, the cigar-making and the island's cuisine. The homemade desserts and cheeses play a special role in the island's extensive offer. In this way, you will be able to experience the richness of the island’s traditions for yourself.

All this with an average yearly temperature of between 16 and 21 degrees centigrade, which enables you to make the trip and enjoy the activities at any time of the year.

Nestled high in the Pyrenees, a unique gem awaits travellers seeking something truly different. Forget bustling metropolises and sprawling transport hubs; Andorra la Vella, the capital of the Principality of Andorra, offers a refreshingly distinct experience. What makes it so special? For starters, it holds the impressive title of Europe's highest capital city, perched at an elevation of 1,023 metres (3,356 feet) above sea level. This lofty position isn't just a fun fact; it shapes the very essence of the city and the country it governs.

Andorra itself is a fascinating anomaly. This microstate, roughly twice the size of the Isle of Wight, is co-governed by the President of France and the Bishop of Urgell in Spain, a unique co-principality arrangement that dates back centuries. Despite its small size, Andorra boasts a surprising population for its terrain, estimated to be around 86,000 residents, with a significant portion of them calling Andorra la Vella home.

The journey to Andorra la Vella is an adventure in itself. Because of its mountainous terrain, the country has no airport and no train lines. This isn't a drawback, but rather an integral part of its charm. Reaching the capital typically involves a picturesque drive through winding mountain roads, often from Toulouse in France or Barcelona in Spain. These routes, while sometimes challenging in winter, offer breathtaking vistas that serve as a magnificent prelude to the destination. It’s a journey that rewards patience with unparalleled natural beauty.

While Andorra is renowned for its world-class skiing and snowboarding, attracting hordes of winter sports enthusiasts to resorts like Grandvalira and Vallnord, the country and its capital offer much more than just snow-covered slopes. The allure extends far beyond the winter months, making it an appealing destination year-round.

During spring and summer, the rugged landscapes transform into a hiker’s paradise. Lush green valleys, crystal-clear mountain streams, and an abundance of walking trails cater to all levels of experience. From gentle strolls to challenging climbs, the natural beauty of the Pyrenees is truly captivating. The air is crisp and clean, offering a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of city life elsewhere.

Andorra la Vella itself might not boast the grand boulevards or historic architectural marvels of some other European capitals. Its charm lies elsewhere – in its unique blend of traditional mountain life and modern amenities, all framed by stunning natural backdrops. The city centre is a bustling hub, with a vibrant main street, Avinguda Meritxell, that’s a haven for shoppers.

Shopping in Andorra la Vella is a significant draw, largely due to the country's duty-free status. Visitors can find a wide array of goods, from electronics and perfumes to fashion and tobacco, often at competitive prices. This economic model has certainly shaped the city's commercial landscape, contributing to its lively atmosphere.

Beyond the retail therapy, the city offers cultural insights. The Casa de la Vall, a historic house that once served as the parliament of Andorra, provides a glimpse into the country's unique political heritage. Its stone walls tell tales of centuries of self-governance in this remarkable microstate.

Another highlight is the Caldea Spa, an architectural marvel and one of Europe’s largest thermal spas. Its distinctive glass pyramid structure dominates the skyline, offering a sanctuary of relaxation with its warm, mineral-rich waters. It’s a testament to how Andorra la Vella blends its natural resources with modern well-being experiences.

Living in Andorra la Vella, or indeed anywhere in Andorra, comes with its own set of characteristics. The tight-knit community, the slower pace of life compared to larger European cities, and the omnipresent mountain scenery create a distinct lifestyle. The absence of an airport or extensive rail network means that travel in and out of the country relies heavily on road transport, which locals and visitors alike have adapted to. The journey, rather than being a hindrance, becomes an intrinsic part of the Andorran experience, allowing for a gradual immersion into its unique environment.

The quality of life is often cited as a significant draw. The clean air, low crime rates, and emphasis on outdoor living contribute to a generally high standard of living. For those who embrace the mountain lifestyle and appreciate a strong sense of community, Andorra la Vella offers an appealing prospect.

Andorra la Vella truly stands apart. It’s a capital city that defies conventional expectations, offering an experience that is both exhilarating and remarkably serene. Its high altitude, lack of major transport links, and stunning natural surroundings all contribute to an atmosphere of exclusivity and adventure. Whether you're drawn by the promise of pristine ski slopes, invigorating mountain hikes, duty-free shopping, or simply the allure of discovering one of Europe's most intriguing microstates, Andorra la Vella promises an unforgettable escape into the heart of the Pyrenees. It’s a place where the journey is as memorable as the destination, and where the mountains truly shape the rhythm of life.

ALP, Girona

Summer is one of the most anticipated times for many and the heat continues to be a draw for many tourists. Rising temperatures cause all kinds of changes. Human beings begin to socialise in other ways, taking advantage of the greater number of hours of sunshine that all kinds of different activities entail at this time of year.

Spain is a world reference for tourism. Every year millions of people visit the country in search of innumerable offerings. Despite the fact that many seek sun and high temperatures in Spain, we can also find municipalities where they can escape from these in summer. The first town to which we must travel if we do not want to suffer the effects of the heat is Ezcaray. This municipality in La Rioja offers us an average summer temperature of 19 degrees, making it a great option.

Another great option is Griegos, in Teruel. This, in addition, has the distinction of being the coldest town in Spain during the summer season as its more than 1,500 meters above sea level in the center of the Sierra de Albarracín, a refuge against heat waves.

With an average temperature of 17.5 degrees in summer, Isaba, in Navarra, can also be a great escape. Thanks to its location in the Roncal Valley, temperatures do not rise excessively, making it a highly recommended option.

This also happens in León, specifically in Puebla de Lillo. The mountains ensure that the average summer temperature does not exceed 17 degrees, a real asset in summer.

With a totally different environment, we find the Cíes Islands in Galicia. Surrounded by water and sand, these have an average temperature of 14 degrees in summer.

Returning to the mountains we find Bellver de la Cerdanya. Barely 19 degrees in July make it a benchmark for escaping the heat in Spain. This Catalan town also has a large number of options such as adventure or sports tourism.

Also in Catalonia, we find another excellent option. Surrounded by nature Alp, in Girona, is a great municipality to escape the heat in summer. Lastly, the town of Cercedilla in Madrid is worth mentioning for its summer temperatures. This enclave registers an average temperature during the day that is around 11ºC minimum and around 20ºC maximum in summer, an ideal location for those who dislike the heat.

Arroz Negro, or "black rice," is a captivating and intensely flavourful dish that hails from the coastal regions of Spain, particularly Valencia. It's a vibrant cousin to paella, distinguished by its striking deep black colour, imparted by squid ink, and its rich taste, derived from a medley of fresh seafood. While it might look intimidating, the process of crafting this culinary masterpiece is incredibly rewarding, culminating in a dish that is both sophisticated and deeply comforting.

At its heart, traditional Arroz Negro celebrates fresh, high-quality ingredients cooked with patience and precision. The key to its depth of flavour lies in a seafood fumet and the careful layering of aromatics and seafood. If you're eager to bring a slice of Spanish culinary heritage to your kitchen, read on for a comprehensive guide to making authentic Arroz Negro, with a special note on adapting the method if you don't possess a traditional paella pan.

The Foundation: A Superior Seafood Fumet

Before you even think about the rice, the first and most crucial step for any authentic Valencian rice dish is a magnificent fumet. This seafood stock is the soul of your Arroz Negro, lending it an incomparable depth of flavour that no store-bought alternative can truly replicate. Don't skimp on this step; it's what elevates the dish from good to truly exceptional. That said, if you don't have time or the patience, you can get a good seafood fumet at Mercadona or from the brand Aneto.

Ingredients for the Seafood Fumet:

300 grams of prawn heads or raw king prawns
500 grams of spines and heads of white fish (such as hake or monkfish)
1 onion
2-3 cloves of garlic
1 leek chopped
2 carrots chopped
2 celery stalks chopped
150 millilitres of white wine (dry white wine is recommended)
150 milliliters of cognac or brandy
Virgin olive oil
Salt
Pepper
A bay leaf
Optional additions for flavour: parsley, saffron, rock fish, or cheaper seafood like mantis shrimp.

Steps for making the Fumet:

1. Add Seafood Elements: Add the fish heads and bones, along with the prawn shells and heads. Stir well and cook for another 5 minutes, allowing them to release their aromas. Squash the heads so they release their juices.

2. Once the seafood is golden brown, add the white wine and increase the heat to evaporate the alcohol.
Add the cognac or brandy and flambé until the flame extinguishes. Exercise caution and avoid turning on the extractor fan during this step.
3. Add the onion, carrots, celery, and garlic. Sauté gently for about 5-7 minutes until softened but not browned. Add the salt, pepper, and bay leaf. Cover the ingredients with water. Cook the broth over medium heat.
4. When the broth begins to boil, remove any scum that forms on the surface to ensure a clear broth. Do not cook for more than 30 minutes, as overcooking can distort the flavour, making it bitter or metallic.
5. Some prefer to finish the fumet by blending it for a thicker, more intense broth - I do this. If you choose to do this, first remove any thick bones, fish, bay leaf, and aromatic herbs to prevent a bitter taste and blend with a hand blender.
6. Carefully strain the fumet through a fine-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth (if you have it) into a clean pot or bowl. Discard the solids. You should have a clear, fragrant seafood stock. Keep it warm.

The Heart of the Matter: Arroz Negro con Calamares y Gambas

With your glorious fumet ready, you're now poised to create the star of the show. The traditional Valencian method for rice dishes prioritises the 'socarrat' – a delicate, slightly crispy caramelised layer of rice at the bottom of the pan, which is a highly prized textural element.

Ingredients for Arroz Negro (Serves 4-6):

Approx. 400g short-grain rice (Bomba or Calasparra are ideal, but Arborio can be a good substitute if those are unavailable)

2 medium squid, cleaned, tentacles reserved, bodies cut into 1cm rings

250g raw prawns, peeled and deveined (reserve shells for fumet)

2-3 sachets (approx. 8-12g total) squid ink

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 ripe tomato, grated (discard skin)

1/2 red bell pepper, finely diced (optional, but adds colour and sweetness)

A pinch of saffron threads (optional, but enhances colour and flavour)

Approx. 1 litre warm seafood fumet (you might need a little more or less)

Extra virgin olive oil

Salt to taste

Fresh parsley, chopped, for garnish

Lemon wedges for serving

Equipment:

A traditional paella pan (a wide, shallow, two-handled pan) OR

A large, shallow oven-safe pan or baking dish (for the oven method)

Method (Traditional Paella Pan):

Prepare the Sofrito: Heat a generous amount of olive oil in your paella pan over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and bell pepper (if using) and sauté gently until softened and translucent, about 8-10 minutes.

Add Squid: Increase the heat slightly and add the squid rings and tentacles. Cook for 5-7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they turn opaque and start to release their liquid. The squid will initially release water, which will then evaporate, allowing them to brown slightly.

Incorporate Garlic and Tomato: Add the minced garlic and grated tomato. Cook for another 5 minutes, stirring, until the tomato has reduced and the mixture is fragrant. This is your 'sofrito' – the flavour base.

Bloom the Saffron: If using saffron, lightly toast the threads in a dry pan for a few seconds, then crush them and add to the sofrito.

Add Rice: Pour in the rice and stir well to coat every grain with the sofrito and oil. Toast the rice for 1-2 minutes, stirring constantly. This helps the rice grains absorb flavour and prevents them from becoming too sticky.

Introduce Squid Ink and Fumet: Carefully mix in the squid ink until it's fully incorporated, turning the rice a dramatic black. Pour in about 800ml of the warm fumet. Stir gently to ensure the rice is evenly distributed. Do not stir the rice extensively after this point, as it can release starch and prevent the development of the socarrat.

Simmer and Cook: Bring the liquid to a rolling boil, then reduce the heat to medium-high. Let the rice simmer uncovered for about 10-12 minutes, allowing the liquid to reduce and the rice to cook. You'll see bubbles forming evenly across the surface.

Add Prawns: Once most of the liquid has been absorbed but the rice is still a bit soupy on top, artfully arrange the raw prawns on top of the rice. They will cook through with the remaining heat.

The Socarrat Stage: Continue to cook for another 5-8 minutes. Listen for a gentle crackling sound, which indicates the formation of the socarrat. You can gently test the bottom with a spoon to ensure a thin, crispy layer has formed. Be careful not to burn it!

Rest: Once cooked, remove the paella pan from the heat. Cover loosely with foil or a clean kitchen towel and let it rest for 5-10 minutes. This allows the flavours to meld and the rice to finish cooking through steam.

Serve: Garnish with fresh parsley and serve immediately with lemon wedges on the side. A dollop of aioli (garlic mayonnaise) is also a classic accompaniment.

The Oven-Cooked Method: No Paella Pan? No Problem!
If you don't have a traditional paella pan, fear not! You can still achieve a fantastic Arroz Negro using an oven-safe pan or baking dish. While the socarrat might be slightly different, the flavour will be equally rich and delicious.

Method (Oven-Cooked):

Prepare Sofrito and Rice (Stovetop): Follow steps 1-6 of the "Traditional Paella Pan" method in a large, shallow, oven-safe pan or cast-iron skillet on your hob. Ensure the pan is suitable for both stovetop and oven use.

Transfer to Oven: Once the rice, squid ink, and fumet are combined and brought to a boil on the hob, carefully transfer the pan to a preheated oven at 180°C (160°C fan / Gas Mark 4).

Bake: Bake for 15 minutes.

Add Prawns: After 15 minutes, remove the pan from the oven. Arrange the raw prawns on top of the rice.

Continue Baking: Return to the oven and bake for another 5-10 minutes, or until the rice has absorbed most of the liquid and the prawns are cooked through. The rice should still be moist but not swimming in liquid.

Rest: Once cooked, remove from the oven. Cover loosely with foil and let it rest for 5-10 minutes as per the traditional method.

Serve: Garnish with fresh chopped parsley and lemon wedges.

Tips for Success:
Quality Ingredients: The success of Arroz Negro hinges on fresh, high-quality seafood. Source your squid and prawns from a reputable fishmonger.

Don't Over-Stir: Once the rice is added and the fumet is in, resist the urge to stir constantly. This is crucial for developing the socarrat and ensuring the rice cooks evenly without becoming gluey.

Heat Management: For the traditional method, mastering the heat is key to the socarrat. Start higher, then reduce, and finally, slightly increase at the end for that perfect crispy bottom.

Adjust Fumet: The amount of fumet needed can vary slightly depending on your rice and pan. Start with the recommended amount and add a little more if the rice is still too firm, or if it's drying out too quickly. But don't move the rice.

Serving: Arroz Negro is best enjoyed immediately after resting.

Arroz Negro is more than just a dish, the aroma of the sea, and the layers of exquisite flavour make it a truly memorable meal. Whether you opt for the traditional paella pan or adapt it for your oven, the effort put into this Valencian treasure will be richly rewarded. Enjoy the journey into the heart of Spanish cuisine!