Max Abroad : The Best of Spain

Every year, as summer draws to a close, the quaint Spanish village of Ochagavía in Spain's northern region of Navarre undergoes a stunning transformation. The village sheds the 21st century—hiding traffic signs, ATMs, and modern storefronts—to faithfully recreate life as it was in 1925. This immersive experience, known as Orhipean (meaning "beneath Ori" in Basque), draws nearly 3,000 visitors annually, all eager to witness a bygone era brought vividly to life by the local residents.

For a full weekend, Ochagavía’s approximately 500 residents—some of whom return specifically for the event—don the outfits of the 1920s to perform the forgotten trades and customs of their ancestors.

The atmosphere is thick with authenticity, largely due to the dedication of the town's older generation, who instruct the young on the proper techniques. Visitors can watch:

• Washerwomen kneeling by the river, scrubbing sheets in the traditional way.
• Spinners using simple tools to process thread, a skill still held by the village's elders.
• Farmers shearing sheep with scissors and guiding livestock, including donkeys, through the cobblestone streets.
• A special, dramatic event: the "mata-txerri" or pig slaughter, where residents process the animal in the street, grinding meat and stuffing casings to make chorizo.

One of the most colourful attractions is the makeshift barber-dentist, a character who stands before a vintage price list. While a moustache trim costs 10 cents, a tooth extraction is priced based on bravery: free for those who endure the process without complaint, but one peseta for the "fussy" who require anaesthesia.

The commitment to detail extends beyond the public square. Homes and historical buildings are used to recreate private village life. The vestibule of a private house becomes the doctor’s office, while a Pyrenees mansion, Casa Koleto, houses a meticulously recreated old school. Here, separate schedules for boys and girls are observed, and a job advertisement for a female teacher lists strict, era-appropriate rules: "Do not marry," "do not dye your hair," and "wear at least two petticoats."

Religious customs are also revived, including the angélicas, a now-lost tradition where First Communion girls offered flowers to the Virgin Mary in May.

The Orhipean festival, which began over two decades ago, arose from a desire to turn the local celebration toward historical preservation. Organisers acknowledged that the event would not be possible without the complete involvement of the elderly, who share their living memories and family heirlooms, such as antique shoes and household items. The event’s newspaper, updated each year, offers historical context by featuring local happenings from the year 1925, detailing births, deaths, and even early morning weddings, serving as a powerful reminder of the deep roots and enduring spirit of this Navarrese community.
 

According to data from the first half of 2025, Spain maintains a relatively low position on international crime indices. Official figures released by the Ministry of the Interior show a slight year-on-year decrease in total recorded offences. However, a familiar pattern persists: the highest crime rates are concentrated in the country's largest and most visited metropolitan areas.

The data reveals that non-violent offences, such as pickpocketing and mobile phone snatches, form the majority of incidents, particularly in tourist hot spots.

City Crime Rates: Barcelona Leads the List

When crime is measured by the rate of offences per 100,000 residents, which allows for fair comparison between cities of different sizes, Barcelona ranks as the city with the highest rate in Spain for the first half of 2025.

Here are the cities with the highest recorded crime rates (offences per 100,000 residents) from January to June 2025:

Regional Trends

When looking at the sheer volume of conventional offences (not rates), Catalonia leads the autonomous communities with 207,567 incidents recorded. This is followed by Andalusia (160,038) and the Community of Madrid (159,705). These volume figures typically reflect population density, high tourist flows, and the presence of major transport hubs. The highest volumes of offences occur in the provinces of Barcelona and Madrid.

Safety Tips for Residents and Visitors 

For both travellers and residents, safety concerns primarily revolve around opportunistic theft in crowded areas. Common locations for non-violent crimes include:

• Barcelona: The tourist corridors of Ciutat Vella and around the Sagrada Família.

• Madrid: The Sol–Gran Vía area.

• Valencia: The historic city centre.

• Málaga: The old town.

To minimise risk, authorities advise:

• Keeping phones and wallets secured in zipped pockets or bags, especially on public transport and busy pavements.

• Using a cross-body bag rather than a backpack.

• Avoid leaving personal belongings unattended at beaches, nightlife spots, or festival sites.

The national emergency number in Spain is 112. Incidents should be reported by filing a denuncia with the Policía Nacional or Guardia Civil.

For over seven centuries, the Atlantic waters west of the Canary Islands have been home to a captivating maritime enigma: the phantom island of San Borondón. Mentioned in maps and chronicles since the 13th century, this elusive land mass is famed for its habit of mysteriously appearing and vanishing, earning it the title of the "ninth island" of the Canary archipelago.

A Legend Born of a Saint

The legend of San Borondón traces its origins to the 6th-century Irish monk, Saint Brendan the Navigator. According to medieval accounts, the monk once landed on an island in the middle of the ocean that seemed solid ground, only for it to disappear suddenly. Popular tradition attributes the name of the phantom Spanish island to him.
Early depictions of the island were grand. The renowned Hereford world map of the 13th century shows an island named "Saint Brand" west of the Canaries, suggesting it would have been one of the largest in the archipelago, measuring an estimated 480 kilometres long and 155 kilometres wide. Despite its historical mention, its existence has never been definitively confirmed.

Centuries of Failed Expeditions

The allure of San Borondón was so strong that it spurred numerous expeditions between the 16th and 18th centuries, primarily focusing on the area northwest of El Hierro and near La Palma.
Notable attempts to find the island include:

• Late 15th Century: Fernando de Viseu, nephew of Infante Don Enrique the Navigator, led an early search.
• 1570: Hernán Pérez de Grado claimed to have reached the shores and even lost part of his crew on the voyage. The Portuguese pilot Pedro Vello also claimed to have landed, although he was forced to abandon the island due to adverse weather conditions.
• 1604: An expedition by Gaspar Pérez de Acosta and Friar Lorenzo de Pinedo returned empty-handed, suggesting the sighting was merely a bank of clouds on the horizon.
• 1721: Gaspar Domínguez led the last official expedition in search of the island, ultimately failing to find it.

Explaining the Vanishing Act

Today, San Borondón remains undiscovered, though the mystery of its reported sightings continues to spark speculation. Researchers have proposed several scientific explanations for the enduring legend:
Optical Illusions: The most common theory is that the sightings are mirages. These optical illusions are caused by light refracting in the atmosphere, making distant land or clouds appear closer, larger, and more distinct than they truly are.

Cloud Formations: Large, dense clusters of clouds over the sea can often assume the appearance of a floating, solid island, only to dissipate later, creating the illusion of a sudden "disappearance."

Volcanic Activity: Less likely, but intriguing, is the speculation that the sightings could be an underwater volcanic formation that briefly rises above the surface before sinking back into the depths.

As of 2025, the ghostly island of San Borondón remains an active part of Spanish folklore, a reminder of the legends still hidden within the vastness of the ocean.

The 17th Century "Palacio de Lerma" was the home of the Duke of Lerma, an influential favourite of King Phillip III of Spain. He was an important diplomat who negotiated numerous treaties and his magnificent and imposing palace was a symbol of his power. He could be described as a religious and racial bigot and was the person who, along with the Archbishop of Valencia, Juan de Ribera, initiated the expulsion of many thousands of Moriscos, the remnants of the earlier Moorish occupation of Spain, who had (officially at least) converted to Christianity. These two zealots had also encouraged the king to enslave the Moriscos for work in mines etc, as he could do so “without any scruples of conscience,”. Thankfully this proposal was rejected.

The Duke eventually fell from grace (but not before becoming a cardinal) and his palace fell into disrepair but it has now been sympathetically restored to become a “Parador”, a state-run, high end, tourist hotel, one of many historic buildings used in this Spanish effort to support tourism.

As one approaches Lerma on the nearby A1 autovia (either from Madrid or Burgos) one can see from a great distance the four imposing black spires (clearly recently renovated) at the corners of the building, looking like a giant, perhaps menacing, ecclesiastical edifice. From a distance, the building looks like one might imagine the headquarters of the Spanish Inquisition  (in keeping with the ideas that originated there) but when viewed up close from the town square it looks imposing and palatial. The palace had magnificent gardens and was reputed to have had 7 chapels (only one survives).

Next to the palace is an impressive church which, like the palace, bears the Duke’s coat of arms. Also check out the other historic buildings in the town including the tourist office, in a building where Rubens is said to have stayed.

If you fancy visiting the Palace and staying the night there  take a look here

From the sun-drenched vineyards of Sanlúcar de Barrameda in Andalusia, Bodegas Barbadillo has been crafting a legacy for over two centuries. Founded in 1821 by Benigno Barbadillo, this family-owned winery has become a true icon of Spanish winemaking, celebrated for its quality, tradition, and a certain fizzy cocktail that captures the very essence of southern Spain: the Rebujito.

Barbadillo's story is inextricably linked to the unique microclimate of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, a coastal town where the Atlantic influence and the famous "poniente" sea breeze create the perfect conditions for aging Manzanilla. Manzanilla is a type of fino sherry distinguished by a layer of yeast, known as "flor," which imparts a crisp, salty, and nutty character to the wine.

Barbadillo was a pioneer in this field. In 1827, the winery became the first to ship a bottled Manzanilla, a wine that would soon become its flagship product and a benchmark for the entire region. Their iconic Manzanilla Solear is a testament to this heritage, known for its bright salinity and elegant depth.

Beyond its world-renowned sherries, Barbadillo has also been at the forefront of innovation. In 1975, they launched "Castillo de San Diego" (now rebranded as Barbadillo Blanco de Albariza), which became one of the best-selling white wines in Spain. This success story, along with a focus on producing quality reds and rosés, has solidified Barbadillo's position as a leading name in Spanish wine, both locally and internationally.

While Barbadillo produces a wide range of exquisite wines, it is perhaps most famous among the general public for its connection to Rebujito. This refreshing, low-alcohol cocktail is the unofficial drink of the Andalusian "ferias," or festivals, particularly the famous Feria de Abril in Seville. The Rebujito's popularity stems from its ability to offer a crisp, cool respite from the hot sun, making it the perfect accompaniment to dancing, socialising, and enjoying tapas.

The foundation of a great Rebujito is a high-quality Manzanilla or Fino sherry. The light, dry, and slightly salty notes of Barbadillo's Manzanilla Solear make it a perfect base. The cocktail's simplicity is its genius, combining the complex flavours of sherry with the zesty kick of a lemon-lime soda.

The Authentic Rebujito Recipe

Creating a Rebujito is easy and quick, making it ideal for sharing with friends. While some people eyeball the ingredients, the traditional ratio is a perfect balance.

Ingredients:

1 part Manzanilla (Barbadillo Manzanilla Solear is the classic choice)
2 parts Lemon-lime soda (Sprite or Seven Up are common)
A handful of fresh mint leaves
Plenty of ice

Instructions:

Fill a large jug or glass with plenty of ice.

Pour in the Manzanilla.

Top up with the lemon-lime soda 

Gently crush the mint leaves to release their aroma, then add them to the jug.

Stir and serve immediately.

For an extra touch, you can garnish with a slice of lemon. This simple concoction is more than just a drink; it's a taste of Andalusian culture and a celebration of life.

Barbadillo is a staple in Spanish households and bars, and its wines are widely accessible. The average price for a bottle of Barbadillo's flagship Manzanilla Solear in Spain typically falls between €5 and €8. Other wines, like their Barbadillo Blanco de Albariza, are similarly affordable, often found in the €4 to €6 range.

This accessible price point, combined with the brand's reputation for quality, has made Barbadillo a consistent bestseller and a source of pride in its home country. Its popularity is not just due to its value, but also to its versatility, making it the perfect bottle to pair with a wide variety of Spanish cuisine or to simply enjoy on its own.

In essence, Barbadillo is more than just a winery; it's a cornerstone of Spanish tradition, and a sip of its wine, whether as a Manzanilla or a Rebujito, is a direct connection to the vibrant spirit of Andalusia.

This summer, while searching for the most beautiful villages in Spain, I bypassed the usual "Top 10" lists. Instead, this selection focuses on some of Spain's lesser-known, yet equally stunning, hidden gems. These are the towns that offer an authentic glimpse into Spanish life, boasting unique history, breathtaking landscapes, and an undeniable charm that's often missed by the mainstream tourist trail...

Lastres, Asturias

In Asturias, there are idyllic coastal spots such as Tazones or Ribadesella, for example, but Lastres is really special. It's a 16th-century whaling district, its typical houses perched on the cliff and the walk descending from the top of the town to the port are unmissable.

Frigiliana, Malaga

There are so many white villages in Andalusia that are worth visiting that a list would have to be made just for them. Frigiliana serves as an example, located in the region of Axarquia, which preserves one of the most valuable historical centres of Arab origin in Spain.

Frias, Burgos

This small town hanging from a rock in the province of Burgos is worthy of being a movie location. Located in the heart of the Montes Obarenes Natural Park, its panoramic view is impressive.

Besalu, Girona

I could have chosen Cadaqués or any of the towns that make up the so-called Garrotxa region, all of them worthy of entering this list, but Besalú is a magnificent representation of the beauty of the entire province of Girona. It has one of the best preserved medieval ensembles in Catalonia. In fact, it was declared, in 1966, a historical-artistic complex due to its great architectural value, and it is enough to see a couple of photos to know that you have to set foot on its streets at least once in your life.

Fornalutx, Majorca

 If you are lucky enough to travel to Mallorca soon, you have to give up at least one day on the beach to enjoy the Tramuntana mountains and the idyllic villages located in its heart. Dèia, Sóller and, above all, Fornalutx make up a wonderful enclave. The latter is quiet, with its characteristic stone-carved buildings and surrounding orange and lemon trees.

Comillas, Cantabria

 Santillana del Mar, Potes, Bárcena Mayor… The list of must-see towns in Cantabria is very long but I opted for Comillas for its location and the unique beauty of its peculiarities. And there are few places where you can see Gaudí's work outside of Catalonia, Comillas is one of them, surely the best.

Alcala del Jucar, Albacete

In a quiet area of ​​the province of Albacete, close to the province of Valencia, is this beautiful town embedded in a rock that forms the gorge of the Júcar river. It is a surprising place of unexpected beauty since its location gets "little media coverage".

Vejer de la Frontera, Cadiz

Next to the famous Cadiz coast, the town of Vejer de la Frontera overwhelms with its white beauty. Its elevated location with respect to the environment already catches you as you approach it, and its tangled streets conquer you as soon as you let yourself get lost in them. It is, without a doubt, a must-see that is well worth giving up a day at the beach for.

Allariz, Ourense

This Galician town is little known because it is not usually included in the list of the most beautiful towns in Spain, but it is one of those unique corners that the interior of Galicia offers. And above all it is because of its idyllic location and how well the architecture has adapted to the environment, letting it be the protagonist. Surrounded by chestnut forests and on the banks of the Arnoia River, this town with a medieval layout is a mandatory stop if you travel to Galicia.

Laguardia, Alava

In the heart of Rioja Alavesa, surrounded by vineyards and wineries that offer a unique landscape, is the town of Laguardia, already in the province of Álava. Located on a hill, and surrounded by a great wall, it is a must stand just a stone's throw from Logroño.

There was a civilisation on the Balearic Island of Menorca which built strange stone constructions known as talayots, taulas or navetas throughout the 1st millennium B.C. It is fairly easy to follow a route around the island to visit these wonders. A good starting point would be the Biniai Nou megalithic tomb. The Me-1 road linking the cities of Mahon and Ciutadella is the central backbone that crosses Menorca from one end to the other. Five kilometres from Mahon, a trail to the right leads to two hypogeal that give rise to the monument. The oldest human remains in Menorca were found here (2300-2200 B.C.).

Returning to the Me-1, you can head back 1 kilometre to the turn-off for the town of Talatí de Dalt. The highlights here are the monumental taula and several megalithic caves. Next is the Calescoves necropolis, located around 8 kilometres away on the southern coast, in two rocky coves which were a jetty in the Roman and Byzantine periods (towards the 6th century A.D.) here there is a set of one hundred caves that were used as a burial ground.

Not so far away is So na Cassana, where we can find the ruins of a religious complex and, along the same road around 2 kilometres down, is the Talayotic settlement of Torralba d’en Salort with its splendid megalithic monuments, several talayot, a hypostyle hall and numerous caves.

If you continue on, you will come across the town of Alaior. It is worth making a stop here to visit the picturesque nooks and streets with their traditional white limestone Menorcan houses. Next, we take the Son Bou road and, after the Galmés Tower, there are a further two monuments.

These are the megalithic tomb of Ses Roques Llises and, the most important site, the Talayotic settlement of Torre d’en Galmés, the largest on all the Balearic Islands where we get a better view of what these types of settlements were like.

From here we head into the heart of the island, still on the Me-1. Forests and farmland, which use the traditional dry stone walls for separation, line the route.

We head through the towns of Es Mercadal (7.5 kilometres), located alongside the Mare de Déu de Toro mountain and shrine, the highest peak in Minorca, and Ferreries (7 kilometres). Here we need to take the road to Es Migjorn Gran to shortly afterwards take the turn-off leading to the Talayotic settlement of Son Mercer de Baix (3 km). The examples of navetas still standing are magnificent.

The next stop is the Naveta des Tudons, a splendid funereal monument and one of the best-preserved and most visited on the island. To get here, we need to return again to the Me-1. At kilometre 40 (5 km after Ferreries), a 1-km deviation on the left leads directly there.

Finally, and after getting to Ciutadella on the western coast of the island, the Son Saura road leads you to the Talayotic settlement of Son Catlar around 6 kilometres on, which stands out for its large 800-metre long wall.

To the northeast of the province of Teruel, stands the small town of Beceite, surrounded by mountain ranges and a privileged setting. Even nature itself crosses the town with the Matarrañana riverbed, leaving waterfalls and natural pools in its wake along the streets of the town. The region of Matarraña is one of the coolest to enjoy the summer in Aragon.

The deposits found in Beceite show that the area was inhabited since the Bronze Age, while two sections of the Roman road that linked the towns of Dertosa and Caesaraugusta, currently Tortosa and Zaragoza, are still preserved from Roman times. In addition, since the Middle Ages, the town was known for its clean waters and its good location.

Starting in the 18th century, Beceite experienced a period of splendour thanks to its paper industry. In this way, he became one of the main producers of paper in Spain, even manufacturing it for the Royal Mint and for the Royal Tapestry Factory, where Francisco de Goya painted some of his creations.

The well-cared-for historic centre of Beceite is a reflection of its long history. Some constructions stand out here, such as the paper mills, where this material was manufactured by hand; the 15th-century stone bridge that crosses the river, or the church of San Bartolomé, a baroque work carried out between the 17th and 18th centuries.

In addition, we do not have to move very far from the centre of the town to enjoy the nature of the place, since next to the streets, the course of the Matarrañana River gives us refreshing natural pools where we can bathe and escape the heat.

Here we find the Font de la Rabosa, a series of shallow pools and waterfalls created by the erosion of water in the limestone rock. And following the course of the river a few meters further south, we encounter another river pool that is much larger and better adapted for bathing.

On the other hand, if we want to enter a much more natural environment, less than 20 minutes from the town we will come across the spectacular landscape of Parrizal, located within the Puertos de Beceite, a mountainous massif crossed by rivers and ravines.

We will be able to explore this enclave through a hiking route that begins very close to the town and runs parallel to the Matarraña riverbed, which we will cross by means of footbridges built over small pools. The crossing ends at Los Estrechos, where the waters of the river slip between imposing 60-meter-high walls and stone needles named Les Gubies.

<Foto Josep Maria Aragonés>

Batisielles, with its crystalline lake set in a green meadow and its creek winding through rhododendrons, black pines and tall and jagged mountains such as the Tucas de Lxeia and the Agujas de Perramó, is not just the definitive postcard of the Huesca Pyrenees: it is the photo that could be shown to an extraterrestrial to show them how beautiful our world is and make them envious. Logically, it is also one of the most popular and frequented mountain routes on which you cannot get lost, because it starts in the Estós Valley car park, three kilometres above Benasque, and at all times follows the red and white painted marks of the GR-11.2 trail.

After two hours of walking, first, on a forest track and then on a steep, stony trail, the lake is reached. There there is a high mountain ambience and breathtaking views that will take up all the memory in your camera, because for photographers, Batisielles is addictive.

From the small lake, the route can be taken further to the larger lake of Batisielles (one hour) or to those of Escarpinosa (45 minutes). Both options are signposted. The words of the French count Henry Russell, who toured this area of solitary stone, water and sky in the second half of the 19th century, still express what the mountaineer feels today: What earthly paradises! The lakes of Escarpinosa, the immense forests that surround them and the irresistible enchantment of these lost lakes in the faraway deserts of the Pyrenees, hidden among the firs, unknown to the masses, in which wild pyramids 3,000 metres high, immense fields of snow and the mysterious world of the stars can be seen! I hope that nature preserves here for a long time, even forever, its blanket of flowers, its grace and virginity.

Before or after climbing to Batisielles, visit the village of Benasque. It has a quaint old town of narrow streets, grey stone houses and thick slate roofs with Roman-style paving. Here you will see the Renaissance church of Santa María la Mayor, the palace of the counts of Ribagorza (16th century), the house of Marcial Río (17th century), the ancestral Pyrenean home of Fauye and the Infanzona of Juste (15th century), the latter with a large crenellated turret. The restaurants in Benasque serve a variety of game, trout and mushrooms, which are abundant in the mountains.

A large number of pastores (bull 'shepherds') cover the entire bull run. They place themselves behind the bulls, with their only protection being a long stick. Their main role is to stop the odd idiot from inciting the bulls from behind, to avoid the bulls turning round and running backwards, and to help any bulls that have stopped or have been separated from their companions to continue running towards the bullring.

The six fighting bulls that will take part in the evening bullfight start the run accompanied by an initial group of mansos, which act as 'guides' to help the bulls cover the route. Two minutes after leaving the corral in Santo Domingo, a second group of bullocks (the so-called 'sweep-up" group), which are slower and smaller than the first one, are let out to lead any bulls that might have stopped or been left behind in the bull run towards the bullring.

The encierro is an unrepeatable experience for spectators and runners alike. It is a spectacle that is defined by the level of risk and the physical ability of the runners.

What is not allowed in the bull run :

People under 18 years of age, who must not run or participate.

Crossing police barriers placed to ensure that the run goes off smoothly.

Standing in areas and places along the route that have been expressly prohibited by the municipal police force.

Before the bulls are released, waiting in corners, blind spots, doorways or in entrances to other establishments located along the run.

Leaving doors of shops or entrances to apartments open along the route.

The responsibility for ensuring these doors are closed lies with the owners or tenants of the properties.

Being in the bull run while drunk, under the effects of drugs or in any other improper manner.

Carrying objects that are unsuitable for the run to take place correctly.

Wearing inappropriate clothes or footwear for the run. Inciting the bulls or attracting their attention in any manner, and for whatever reason, along the route of the run or in the bullring.

Running backwards towards the bulls or running behind them.

Holding, harassing or maltreating the bulls and stopping them from moving or being led to the pens in the bullring.

Stopping along the run and staying on the fence, barriers or in doorways in such a way that the run or the safety of other runners is jeopardised.

Taking photographs inside the run, or from the fences or barriers without due authorisation.

Carrying objects that are unsuitable for the good order and security of the bull run.

Installing elements that invade horizontal, vertical or aerial space along the bull run, unless expressly authorised by the Mayor's Office.

Any other action that could hamper the bull run from taking place normally.

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BEST TIME TO VISIT:  6 JULY TO 14 JULY