Still Discovering Spain...

Within the spectacular complex of the Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias (City of Arts and Sciences), the Oceanogràfic de Valencia aquarium is home to some of those treasures that nature usually reserves for those who are able to go and seek them.

When it is a matter of penetrating the Arctic waters of Canada, which is not exactly an easy feat, it is undeniable that being able to view the smiling beluga whales that live at the Oceanogràfic becomes altogether a privilege. In fact, they are the only examples of this species living in captivity in the whole of Europe. These beautiful animals with off-white skin, almost closer to dolphins than to whales, receive visitors from their aquatic tank with a joviality that never fails to surprise.

They are also known as sea canaries, on account of how vocal they are and the huge range of trills, laughs, whistles and squeaks that they use without inhibition of any kind. Viewing them in surroundings that replicate their natural habitat as well as those at the Oceanogràfic is a real pleasure and altogether an experience for anyone, whatever their age. And, to the side, in the same enclosure, the somewhat more scandalous and sullen walruses complete our tour of the Canadian Arctic.

https://www.oceanografic.org/en/especie/beluga-whales/

Spain, with its stunning coastlines bordering the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, is a magnet for swimmers, snorkelers, and divers. The crystal-clear waters teem with life, offering incredible opportunities for exploration. However, beneath the surface, a few creatures possess defence mechanisms that, if encountered unwarily, can deliver a painful, though rarely life-threatening, experience. Understanding these potential dangers is key to a safe and enjoyable time in Spain's aquatic playgrounds.

It's crucial to emphasize that serious incidents with marine life in Spain are extremely rare. Most creatures prefer to avoid human interaction, and defensive actions usually only occur when they feel threatened or are accidentally stepped on.

Here's a look at the marine life you should be aware of:

Weever Fish (Pez Araña)

Among the most common culprits for painful encounters are weever fish (pez araña). These small, sandy-colored fish are masters of camouflage, burying themselves in the shallow seafloor, particularly in sandy areas close to shore. They possess venomous spines on their dorsal fin and gill covers.

The Danger: Stepping on a weever fish is agonizing. The venom causes intense, immediate pain, swelling, and can lead to numbness, tingling, and even nausea.

What to do:

• Immediate action: Submerge the affected area in very hot water (as hot as tolerable) for 30-90 minutes. This helps denature the venom.
• Medical attention: Seek medical advice, especially if symptoms persist or are severe.
• Prevention: Wear water shoes, especially when wading in sandy, shallow areas. Shuffle your feet as you walk to disturb any buried fish.

Jellyfish (Medusas)

Jellyfish are a common sight in Spanish waters, particularly during warmer months. While most are harmless, several species can deliver a sting ranging from mildly irritating to quite painful. The most commonly encountered include various types of pelagia, rhizostoma, and occasionally the more potent Portuguese man o' war (though less common directly on Spanish beaches, currents can bring them).

The Danger: Jellyfish stings cause immediate burning pain, redness, itching, and welts. The severity depends on the species and the individual's reaction

What to do:

• Rinse, don't rub: Rinse the affected area with seawater (not fresh water, which can cause more nematocysts to fire).
• Remove tentacles: Carefully remove any visible tentacles using tweezers or a gloved hand.
• Hot water or vinegar: Some suggest applying vinegar, but hot water (similar to weever fish stings) can also help alleviate pain for certain species.
• Medical attention: Seek medical advice if symptoms are severe, widespread, or if you experience difficulty breathing.
• Prevention: Pay attention to beach warning flags and local reports of jellyfish presence. Consider wearing a rash guard or wetsuit if swimming in areas known for jellyfish.

Sea Urchins (Erizos de Mar)

Sea urchins are ubiquitous in rocky areas and tidal pools along the Spanish coast. Their long, brittle spines, while not venomous in the same way as weever fish, can easily penetrate skin and break off, causing discomfort and potential infection.

The Danger: Stepping on or touching a sea urchin can result in painful, embedded spines, redness, and swelling. If not removed, the spines can cause prolonged irritation and localised infections.

What to do:

• Remove spines: Carefully try to remove visible spines with tweezers. For deeply embedded spines, medical attention may be required.
• Soak: Soaking the area in hot water can help soften the skin and make spine removal easier.
• Medical attention: Consult a doctor if spines are deeply embedded, cause significant pain, or show signs of infection.
• Prevention: Wear water shoes, especially when exploring rocky areas or tide pools.

Less Common, But Worth Knowing:

• Stingrays (Rayas): While generally docile and preferring to avoid humans, stingrays can deliver a painful sting from their barbed tails if accidentally stepped on. They are typically found buried in sandy bottoms. Shuffle your feet to alert them to your presence.
• Moray Eels (Morenas): These fascinating creatures inhabit rocky crevices and wrecks. While not aggressive, they can deliver a nasty bite if provoked or if a hand is mistakenly placed near their lair. Admire them from a distance.
• Barracudas (Barracudas): Though they have a formidable appearance and sharp teeth, barracudas are generally not a threat to swimmers and are more curious than aggressive. Attacks on humans are exceedingly rare and usually involve mistaken identity in murky water or during spearfishing.

General Advice for a Safe Underwater Experience:

• Be aware of your surroundings: Always pay attention to where you're stepping and reaching, especially in murky or sandy areas.
• Never touch marine life: Observe marine creatures from a distance. Do not attempt to touch, feed, or harass any animal.
• Wear appropriate footwear: Water shoes are highly recommended for protection against weever fish and sea urchins.
• Heed local warnings: Pay attention to beach flags, lifeguard advice, and local news regarding marine life presence.
• Swim with a buddy: It's always safer to swim or dive with someone else.
• Educate yourself: Learn about the common marine life in the area you are visiting.

Spain's underwater world offers breathtaking beauty and incredible experiences. By being mindful of these easily avoidable encounters and respecting the natural inhabitants of the sea, you can ensure your aquatic adventures are memorable for all the right reasons.

If you thought that sangría was a Spanish invention, then think again. The “refreshing drink which combines wine and water with sugar and lemon and other complements”, as it is defined in the official Spanish dictionary(RAE), is British. Well, the name is... Yes, I was just as surprised when I found out!

The British sangría has been known about since 1987 when the philologist Francisco Marcos Álvarez, divulged to the Spanish Language History Congress (Cáceres) that the word sangría comes from 'sangaree', a drink enjoyed by the British residents of the British West Indies and some other North American colonies back in the seventeenth century. When British ex-pats are demanding sangría on the terrace of a local bar they are unwittingly using an Anglicism.

Sangaree, back in 1694 on the island of Martinique, was made with “Madeira wine mixed in a jug with sugar, the juice from a lemon, a little cinnamon and powdered clove, plenty of nutmeg and a crust of toast”. This drink was described by the Frenchman Jean-Baptiste Labat in his book 'Nouveau voyage aux isles de l'Amérique' (1722), who tasted the concoction on his trip to the British Antilles and declared that once strained and chilled, it was delicious and refreshing.

This 'sangaree', made with wine from Madeira, Porto or the Canary Islands (sometimes also with rum), was a very popular drink in the colonies of Barbados, Bahamas and Virginia throughout the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. From the English 'sangaree', Labat understood 'sang-gris', a term that passed via Chinese whispers to Spanish as 'grey blood' thanks to Esteban Terreros and his 'Diccionario Castellano con las voces de ciencias y artes' (1788). He defined it as “a beverage that the English invented and is often drunk in the English and French colonies of America: the English say that it refreshes because it contains some lemon juice or citron [...] but that it goes quickly to the head proves that this drink contains a lot of spirit and a lot of fire”.

In 1803, the RAE would veto 'grey blood' and would choose to include a new meaning for the word sangría: “a drink that is composed of water, lemon and red wine”. This meaning stood for decades in Mexico and other Spanish-American countries, probably due to the Caribbean influence, but strangely in Spain, there is no previous mention to 1800, except for “sangrías de vino tinto” served at the Cadiz Carnival in 1770.

Is it that wine and lemon maybe didn't appeal to Spaniards? Of course it did, but until the beginning of the 19th century, that mixture was known here as lemonade. A descendant of the medicinal and spicy wines of the Middle Ages, wine lemonade was one of the most popular drinks of the Golden Age.

Whether served as a soft drink or as a medicine, it was used to treat fever, vomiting and as an anticoagulant measure before bloodletting. However, by the mid-nineteenth century, Spain fervently adopted the term 'sangría' and the old 'lemonade' was abandoned.

In Menorca, the sengri menorquin, without a doubt comes from the English 'sangaree'. The British occupation of the island during the seventeenth century left, among other things, this hot drink made from red wine, sugar, orange, cinnamon, anise, nutmeg and bread, extraordinarily similar to that concoction that over 300 years ago Labat tried in sunny Martinique.

With the passing of time Sangria developed into what we would now consider the 'traditional' recipe. Traditional homemade sangria is typically made with good young red wine and seasonal fruits, both in the form of juice (oranges, lemons) and in pieces to add flavour (peaches and apples). If you fancy making it here are the steps to follow:

Ingredients to prepare homemade sangria (1.5 litres):

1 bottle of good red wine (750 ml) - 'Tinto Joven' 
2 peaches
1 apple
2 oranges (variety for juice)
1 lemon for juice
1/2 cinnamon stick.
1 can (330 ml) soda (optional)
2 tablespoons of sugar.
2 tablespoons of water.

• Squeeze the oranges and the lemon, strain their juice and put it in the jug or container where you are going to serve the sangria. Also, add the red wine.
• Peel the apple, core it, cut it into small squares and add them to the jar.
• Do the same with the peaches: peel them, remove the pit, cut them into squares and put them in the jar as well and add the cinnamon stick.
• Now you will need to prepare a small syrup. It is simply a matter of diluting the sugar so that when it is added to the jar it dissolves perfectly and does not remain at the bottom. To do this, put the sugar and water in a saucepan over medium heat for a few minutes until the sugar dissolves. Add it to the jar and stir well.
• Now let it rest at room temperature for a couple of hours, so that the flavours merge and the wine absorbs all the flavour of the fruit. If you are going to drink it more than two hours after preparing it, then you should put it in the refrigerator until it is time to serve it.
• Just before serving, you can add the soda, if you want - it is optional. It is best to put ice in the glasses and not in the jug to avoid diluting it too much.

Tired of the well-trodden paths of Spain? Yearning for a truly authentic experience that blends breathtaking nature with a deep dive into ancient culture? Then set your sights on Los Ancares, a magnificent mountain range nestled between Galicia, Castile and León, and Asturias. This UNESCO Biosphere Reserve is a hidden gem, offering a remarkable escape for tourists and expats eager to discover Spain's wilder side.

Los Ancares is a land of dramatic contrasts. Deep valleys carved by ancient glaciers give way to towering peaks reaching over 2,000 metres, like Cuiña and Mustallar. Here, you'll find a landscape remarkably preserved, thanks to its historical isolation. Dense oak, chestnut, and beech forests cloak the slopes, while higher altitudes reveal heathlands and juniper bushes. It's a paradise for biodiversity, home to an incredible array of plant species, some unique to the Iberian Peninsula, and a haven for wildlife, including elusive brown bears, wolves, deer, and diverse birdlife like eagles and vultures. Keep your eyes peeled – you might even spot the rare broom hare!

One of the most captivating aspects of Los Ancares is its unique ethnographic heritage. For centuries, life here revolved around the pallozas, circular or oval-shaped stone huts with distinctive thatched roofs. These ancient dwellings, some dating back to Celtic times, housed both people and their livestock, a testament to a self-sufficient way of life. Today, a visit to a palloza is an absolute must. Many have been lovingly preserved, with some even transformed into fascinating ethnographic museums, like the Palloza Museo Casa do Sesto in Piornedo, offering a glimpse into the region's rich past. You'll find clusters of these charming structures in villages like Piornedo, O Cebreiro, and Campo del Agua.

Los Ancares is an outdoor enthusiast's dream. The unspoiled landscape offers endless opportunities for hiking, from gentle strolls through ancient woodlands to challenging ascents of its majestic peaks. Popular routes include the ascent to Pico dos Tres Bispos and various trails around the Ancares Leoneses Biosphere Reserve. "La Mirada Circular" is another recommended hiking trail.

• Medieval Castles: Explore the remnants of the past with visits to castles like Doiras and Frades, offering picturesque views and tales of old.
• Prehistoric Sites: The region boasts archaeological treasures, including tumuli (burial mounds) and megalithic chambers, known locally as mámoas or medorras, showcasing human presence since the Neolithic era.
• The Camino de Santiago: Los Ancares lies on the historic Camino de Santiago, adding a spiritual dimension to your journey. O Cebreiro, a significant stop on the French Way, is a captivating village with its own collection of pallozas and a beautiful sanctuary.

No trip to Spain is complete without indulging in local cuisine, and Los Ancares won't disappoint. The region is known for its hearty, traditional dishes, reflecting its agricultural heritage. Look out for local specialities like:

Botillo: A cured, seasoned pork product, typical of El Bierzo region, which borders Los Ancares.

Reineta Apples: A distinct variety of apple, renowned for its flavour.
Cured Beef and Pears: Local produce that speaks to the region's fresh, natural bounty.
Hearty stews and game dishes, often featuring local ingredients, are also staples.

Los Ancares offers a range of rural accommodations, from cosy guesthouses to charming rural hotels, allowing you to immerse yourself fully in the tranquil atmosphere. While the area has historically been isolated, rural tourism is growing, providing more options for visitors seeking an authentic experience.

Getting around Los Ancares often requires a car to fully explore its dispersed villages and natural wonders. However, the journey itself, winding through the pristine landscapes, is part of the adventure.

If you're seeking a Spanish adventure that takes you off the beaten track, where nature reigns supreme and ancient traditions live on, Los Ancares awaits. It's a place where the air is cleaner, the views are grander, and the sense of discovery is truly profound. Come and uncover the untamed heart of Spain!

Accommodation in Los Ancares:

https://www.cabanasancares.com/

May heralds the much-anticipated arrival of early stone fruits, their sweet perfume a sure sign that summer is on its way. These fruits, alongside lingering citrus and the last of the season's berries, create a dazzling display in Spanish markets. The concept of "fruit with pedigree" is particularly relevant here, as many of Spain's prized varieties boast Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) or Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status. These labels are not mere marketing tools; they represent a proud system of quality control, ensuring that the fruit adheres to specific cultivation practices and possesses taste profiles intrinsically linked to its unique terruño, or terroir. These fruits become culinary ambassadors of their regions. 

Stone Fruits Take Centre Stage:

The loquat (níspero) is often the first stone fruit to make its appearance, typically in April or May, effectively "kicking off the countdown to summer". Among the most distinguished are the PDO Callosa d'En Sarriá Loquats from the province of Alicante in the Valencian Community, celebrated for their "very characteristic sweet and slightly acidic taste". Originally from Asia, this oval, orange fruit, which "peels like a banana," has found an ideal home in the Mediterranean climate. Loquats are delightful to eat fresh and versatile in the kitchen. They are featured in desserts like pastry chef Jordi Roca's creation with honey and Mató cheese foam or blended into milkshakes, smoothies, and ice cream. A particularly refreshing use is in a Spring Salad with Loquats and Spinach. 

Cherries (cerezas) follow closely, with their season generally running from May to July. The end of spring, particularly mid to late May, brings the highly prized PDO Valle del Jerte cherries from Cáceres, Extremadura. These are renowned for their "sweetness, heart shape, and crisp bite". A unique variety from this region is the picota, which is marketed without a stem as it naturally detaches during harvest. The Valencian Community also boasts the PGI Alicante Mountain Cherries, encompassing over a dozen varieties with diverse shapes, textures, and flavours, cultivated for over a millennium. The culinary world has embraced these gems with enthusiasm. Top chefs are not limiting these fruits to simple desserts; instead, they are finding innovative ways to incorporate their unique flavours into sophisticated cuisine. For instance, the Torres brothers have famously used cherries in dishes with quail and spices, or transformed picotas into a dessert featuring pepper, almond cream, and sabayon. Chef Kiko Moya showcases PGI Alicante Mountain Cherries in a delicate sorbet paired with tender almonds and royal thyme. More traditional, yet equally delightful, is the French-inspired Clafoutis, often prepared with seasonal Spanish cherries. A more contemporary savoury application is a vibrant cherry chimichurri served with Pluma Ibérica pork. 

Apricots (albaricoques) join the ensemble from May through August, although some would say their May harvest depends on a bit of luck. These golden-orange fruits are nutritional powerhouses, packed with vitamins and fibre. They can be enjoyed raw, dried, roasted, preserved, or made into jam. Spanish culinary creativity shines in dishes such as Apricot Sorbet with Saffron Syrup, the hearty Spanish Lamb Stew with Dried Apricots, a refreshing salad featuring caramelised apricots, and roasted apricots macerated in a mojito-inspired blend. 

The arrival of early peaches (melocotones) and nectarines (nectarinas), both in season from May to September, truly signals that the main event of summer stone fruits is underway. From Murcia, the Cieza peaches, particularly the Baby Gold 6 (yellower) and Romea (more orange) varieties, are lauded for their "consistent and juicy texture" and perfect equilibrium of acidity and sweetness, often releasing juice from the first bite. Chef María Gómez cleverly utilises the firm texture of Cieza peaches in savoury compositions, such as with aged beef tenderloin and seared foie gras. These early stone fruits, with their juicy flesh and vibrant colours, act as culinary harbingers, building a delicious anticipation for the full splendour of the summer fruit season. Their appearance is an event in itself, a tangible shift in the culinary calendar that excites both consumers and chefs. 

Lingering Citrus & Sweet Berries

While many citrus fruits peak in winter, lemons (limón) remain widely available. Though their primary season ends in May, Spain, as the EU's largest lemon producer, ensures a fairly consistent supply. Their bright acidity is indispensable in Spanish kitchens, with the juice and rind lending zest to sauces, marinades, preserves, baked goods, and refreshing drinks.  

May also marks the glorious tail end of the strawberry (fresa) season, which typically runs from February. Spain is celebrated for its "extraordinarily regular-sized and large strawberries," with Huelva being a particularly significant production hub. These sweet, ruby-red jewels are a popular export. In Spain, they are often enjoyed in their purest form, perhaps with a dollop of cream in the classic dessert Fresas con Nata. They also feature in a myriad of other desserts and, increasingly, in innovative savoury dishes like Strawberry Gazpacho.  

Table: Seasonal Fruits in Spain (May)

The First Melons of the Season

The very first whispers of summer's iconic fruit, the melon, begin in May. Mini watermelons (sandía mini) can appear as early as April or May. Though botanically a fruit, their relation to cucumbers and pumpkins is a curious fact. Cantaloupe melons (melón cantalupo) also start their season in May, extending through September. These early arrivals are cherished for their refreshing sweetness. While often enjoyed sliced, a classic Spanish tapa, Melón con Jamón, beautifully marries the sweet melon with savoury cured ham. Refreshing watermelon salads are also a popular choice as the temperatures begin to climb.  

Other Notable Fruits

Medlar (níspero), the European variety, is listed with an April-May season. It is important to distinguish this from the loquat, which, confusingly, is also called níspero in Spanish. The prominent feature in May is the loquat (Asian níspero).

Avocado (aguacate) cultivation in Spain provides several varieties throughout the year. The Reed avocado, however, has a specific season from April/May to August. Other varieties like Bacon, Fuerte, Maluma, Hass, and Lamb Hass also contribute to the year-round availability, each with its unique characteristics. Avocados are a versatile ingredient, forming the base of guacamole and adding creamy richness to salads, sauces, and smoothies.  

The flavours of May in Spain are a testament to a rich culinary heritage, a deep respect for nature's rhythms, and an enduring passion for sharing the very best of the season's offerings.

The city of Palma was once coveted by Romans, Moors and Berber pirates. It was King Jaume I who put an end to the Moorish reign in the Mediterranean island (13th century), and who built the most important constructions in Palma. The old quarter of the city stands inside the 18th-century walls which served to repel pirates and corsairs. Visitors will find old churches, palaces and noble mansions with charming courtyards (there are over 40 dotted around the centre of Palma).

The Cathedral of Palma (Sa Seu) is built in a spectacular location on the bay and next to the fishing harbour. It is an elegant Gothic cathedral, and it is harmoniously built, despite being so large. It was commissioned by King Jaume I, to be built on the site of the old Mayurqa Mosque. The cathedral has very high vaults; although what surprises the most is an impressive rose window and the peculiar wrought iron baldaquin, by the Catalan architect Antonio Gaudí. Opposite Sa Seu is the Almudaina Palace. The former Moorish palace and residence of the monarchs of Majorca is currently used as a museum. Its appearance as a Moorish fortress contrasts with the rich ornamentation of the flamboyant Gothic Chapel of Santa Ana that can be found inside. Situated near the Paseo Sagrera is Sa Llotja. This old fish market, which is used for exhibitions today, is one of the best examples of civil Gothic architecture in Spain. Its Solomonic columns and cross vaults are quite unusual for a secular construction. Together with the Lonja, we find the Consolat (Consulate) de Mar where the regional government has its headquarters, under Renaissance arches.

Following Paseo Sagrera Avenue you come to the Es Baluard Museum of Modern Art. Its collection comprises works representative of the most significant international tendencies from the end of the 19th century to the present day. Here you can see works by artists such as Cézanne, Gauguin, Picasso, Tàpies, Kiefer and Barceló, amongst others. Other places well worth a visit include the city's museums, such as the Pilar and Joan Miró Foundation or the March Foundation, whose collections feature works by Miró, Dalí and Juan Gris; they also host major temporary exhibitions.

 Continue on through Paseo des Born, which is one of the main arteries of the city, dividing the monumental historic quarter from the fishing, popular districts of Sant Joan and Puig de Sant Pere.

If you take Unió street, from the square Plaza Rei Joan Carles, our next stop would be the Caixa Foundation. The old Grand Hotel, a modernist building, now houses an important cultural centre. Across the street, in El Forn des Teatre Bakery, a peculiar Art Deco building, you can try the delicious "ensaimadas" (a flaky, spiral-shaped bun) and the famous "gató" (almond cake), the best of the whole city.

Further down you will find Plaza Mayor, a square with great modernist influence. From this point on, the great avenues and boulevards that make up the new suburbs of Palma de Majorca unfold: the modern city.

To return to the coast from Plaza Mayor, you can go across the historic quarter and visit Plaza de Cort, the City Hall, the Palace of Vivot and the church of Santa Eulària. The City Hall, also known as "Cort", is a Baroque structure built on top of an old sixteenth-century hospital. On the other hand, the church—the first Christian structure erected in Palma— is a great example of the Catalan Gothic period. Other mansions in the area include the neo-Mudejar Can Corbella, Can Forteza Rey and the Modernist building "El Águila".

Another way is to walk through the old Jewish quarter and the district of Sa Calatrava. Along this journey you will see the Gothic temple of Sant Francesc and, at the heart of "Call" (the Jewish quarter), the Baroque church of Montisió, which sits on top of an old synagogue. Reaching the Promenade, you will see the Arab public baths, a reminder of the rule of the Caliphate of Cordoba over these lands.

In this area you can also visit the Museum of Majorca. This ancient palatial-residence houses a magnificent collection that includes prehistoric, Roman, Muslim and medieval artefacts.

Two kilometres away from Palma's city centre is the Castle of Bellver. The castle is located on top of the wooded hill that dominates the bay. Its unusual, circular floor plan and the delicate arches inside lend it an ornamental, rather that defensive, appearance. The precinct is the current home of the Municipal Museum of History.

Empanadas are a cornerstone of Spanish cuisine, beloved parcels of pastry encasing a variety of delicious fillings. From Galicia in the north-west, famous for its large, often seafood-filled pies, to smaller, individual 'empanadillas' found across the country, these versatile bakes are perfect for sharing, picnics, parties, or simply a satisfying meal.

Today, we're diving into a particularly popular and flavourful combination: Tuna and Pisto Empanada. Imagine flaky, golden pastry giving way to a rich, savoury filling of slow-cooked Mediterranean vegetables (the glorious pisto) mingled with tender tuna. It’s a classicfor a reason – comforting, packed with flavour, and surprisingly straightforward to make at home.

While you can certainly use shop-bought pastry for convenience, crafting your own dough adds an extra layer of satisfaction and results in a uniquely tender yet sturdy crust, perfectly designed to hold the generous filling. Let's explore how to bring this Spanish favourite to your kitchen table.

Understanding the Key Components

Before we begin, let's break down what makes this empanada special:

The Dough (Masa): The traditional dough for Spanish empanadas is often enriched with oil (like olive oil) and sometimes a touch of white wine or even lard, giving it a character distinct from standard shortcrust or puff pastry. It needs to be rolled thinly but remain strong enough not to tear under the weight of the filling. It bakes up beautifully crisp at the edges and slightly softer where it meets the filling. Of course, if time is short, good quality ready-made puff or shortcrust pastry works well too, offering different textures (flaky or crumbly, respectively).

The Filling (Relleno):

Pisto: This is the heart of the filling. Pisto Manchego, hailing from the La Mancha region of Spain, is a vibrant vegetable stew similar in concept to French ratatouille but often simpler. It typically involves slowly simmering onions, peppers, courgettes, and tomatoes in olive oil until soft, sweet, and concentrated in flavour. Allowing the vegetables to cook down properly is key to developing depth.

Tuna: Good quality tinned tuna is essential. Whether you choose tuna in olive oil (drain it very well!) or brine (drain well and perhaps add a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil to the filling), it provides a savoury, umami counterpoint to the sweet vegetables. Flake it gently into the cooled pisto.

Optional Additions: Hard-boiled eggs are a very common and traditional addition to this type of empanada filling, adding extra substance and richness. Simply chop them and fold them in with the tuna.

Ingredients
Here’s what you’ll need to gather:

For the Dough (Masa):

500g Plain Flour (plus extra for dusting)
100ml Olive Oil (a mild one works well)
100ml Dry White Wine (at room temperature)
100ml Warm Water
1 tsp Salt
1 tsp Caster Sugar (optional, helps with browning)
1 Egg Yolk (for kneading, optional for richness)

For the Filling (Relleno):

1 Large Onion (approx. 200g), finely chopped
1 Green Pepper, deseeded and finely chopped
1 Red Pepper, deseeded and finely chopped
1 Large Courgette (approx. 300g), diced
400g Tinned Chopped Tomatoes (good quality)
200g Tinned Tuna (in oil or brine), thoroughly drained and flaked
2-3 tbsp Olive Oil (for cooking the pisto)
1 tsp Sugar (to balance tomato acidity)
Salt, to taste
Black Pepper, to taste
(Optional) 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs, peeled and chopped

For Assembly:

1 Medium Egg, beaten (for egg wash)

Let's break down the process into manageable stages:

1. Make the Dough:

In a large bowl, combine the plain flour, salt, and optional caster sugar. Make a well in the centre.
Pour the olive oil, white wine, warm water, and optional egg yolk into the well.

Using your hands or a wooden spoon, gradually mix the wet ingredients into the dry until a shaggy dough forms.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead for about 8-10 minutes until it becomes smooth, elastic, and no longer sticky. Add a tiny bit more flour if it’s excessively sticky, or a splash more water if it feels too dry.

Form the dough into a ball, place it back in the bowl, cover with cling film or a damp cloth, and let it rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes (or up to an hour). This allows the gluten to relax, making it easier to roll out later.

2. Prepare the Pisto:

While the dough rests, make the pisto. Heat the 2-3 tablespoons of olive oil in a large frying pan or saucepan over medium heat.

Add the chopped onion and peppers. Sauté gently for about 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened and the onion is translucent. Don't rush this step; sweating the vegetables slowly builds flavour.

Add the diced courgette and cook for another 5-7 minutes, stirring, until it begins to soften.
Pour in the tinned chopped tomatoes, add the teaspoon of sugar, and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste.

Bring the mixture to a gentle simmer, then reduce the heat to low, cover loosely, and let it cook for at least 20-30 minutes, or until the vegetables are very tender and the sauce has thickened and reduced. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking. The goal is a rich, fairly dry stew – excess liquid will make the empanada soggy.

Once cooked, remove the pisto from the heat and let it cool completely. This is crucial; adding hot filling to pastry will melt it.

3. Assemble the Filling:

Once the pisto is completely cool, gently fold in the thoroughly drained and flaked tuna.
If using, fold in the chopped hard-boiled eggs. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary.

4. Assemble the Empanada:

Preheat your oven to 200°C (180°C Fan/Gas Mark 6). Line a large baking tray with baking parchment.
Divide the rested dough into two portions: one slightly larger (about two-thirds) for the base, and the smaller one (about one-third) for the top.

On a lightly floured surface, roll out the larger portion of dough into a thin rectangle or circle, large enough to cover the base of your baking tray with a slight overhang. Carefully transfer the dough to the prepared baking tray.

Spoon the cooled tuna and pisto filling evenly over the dough base, leaving a 2-3 cm border clear all around.

Roll out the smaller portion of dough to create the lid, making it slightly larger than the filling area.

Brush the clear border of the base dough with a little water or some of the beaten egg.

Carefully place the top layer of dough over the filling. Press down gently around the edges to seal the two layers together.

Trim any excess dough from the edges. Crimp the edges securely to ensure the filling doesn't leak during baking. You can do this by pressing down with the tines of a fork, or by folding the edge over itself repeatedly to create a decorative, rope-like border (known as 'repulgue' in Spanish).

Cut a small slit or a couple of small holes in the centre of the empanada lid to allow steam to escape during baking. You can also use leftover dough scraps to create decorative shapes on top if you wish.

Brush the entire top surface of the empanada evenly with the beaten egg wash. This will give it a beautiful golden colour and shine.

5. Bake the Empanada:

Place the baking tray in the preheated oven.
Bake for 30-40 minutes, or until the pastry is deeply golden brown, crisp, and cooked through. Cooking time may vary slightly depending on your oven. If it seems to be browning too quickly on top, you can loosely tent it with foil for the last part of baking.

Once baked, remove the empanada from the oven and let it cool on the baking tray for at least 10-15 minutes before slicing and serving. This allows the filling to set slightly and makes it easier to cut.

Tips for Success and Variations

Cool Filling is Key: Ensure the pisto is completely cool before adding the tuna and assembling the empanada to prevent a soggy bottom.

Drain Tuna Well: Excess oil or water from the tuna will make the filling too wet. Squeeze it gently if necessary.
Pastry Options: If making your own dough seems daunting, ready-rolled puff pastry will give a flaky, light result, while ready-rolled shortcrust pastry offers a more crumbly, biscuit-like texture. Follow the packet instructions for baking times and temperatures, adjusting as needed.

Make Ahead: The pisto can be made a day or two in advance and stored in the fridge. The entire assembled empanada can also be refrigerated for a few hours before baking (just add the egg wash right before it goes in the oven). Cooked empanada stores well in the fridge for 2-3 days and can be gently reheated or enjoyed cold.

Freezing: You can freeze the baked and cooled empanada whole or in slices, well-wrapped. Reheat from frozen in a moderate oven until heated through. You can also potentially freeze the unbaked empanada, though the pastry texture might be slightly affected upon baking.

Filling Variations: This recipe is wonderfully adaptable. Try swapping the tuna for cooked shredded chicken, minced beef (cooked with the pisto base), chorizo, or other tinned fish like sardines or mackerel. For a vegetarian version, simply omit the tuna and perhaps add some chickpeas or white beans to the pisto for substance.

Egg Wash Alternatives: If you don't have an egg, you can brush the top with milk for a golden finish.

Serving Suggestions

Tuna and Pisto Empanada is fantastic served warm from the oven, but it's also delicious at room temperature, making it ideal for packed lunches or picnics.

Cut it into generous squares or wedges. It's substantial enough to be a meal in itself, but it pairs beautifully with a simple green salad dressed with a light vinaigrette, or perhaps some Spanish olives on the side.

Making a Tuna and Pisto Empanada from scratch is a rewarding process. It fills your kitchen with wonderful aromas and results in a truly satisfying bake. It’s a taste of authentic Spanish home cooking—robust, flavourful, and perfect for sharing with family and friends. Whether you follow the recipe precisely or adapt it with your favourite variations, this empanada is sure to become a much-loved staple. Enjoy!

In the vibrant, winding streets of Barcelona's Gothic Quarter, there stands a culinary institution that has weathered the storms of history and emerged as a beloved testament to Catalan cuisine. Can Culleretes, proudly holding the title of Barcelona's oldest restaurant, has been serving up delectable dishes and unforgettable experiences since 1786. This venerable establishment is not just a place to eat; it's a living museum of gastronomy, culture, and tradition.

As you approach Can Culleretes, you're immediately struck by its understated exterior, which belies the treasure trove of culinary delights and historical charm that await inside. Push open the door, and you'll find yourself transported to another era. The interior of Can Culleretes is a captivating blend of old-world charm and timeless elegance, reflecting its impressive 235-year history.

Your eyes are drawn to the faded murals that adorn the walls, each telling a silent story of the countless patrons who have dined here over the centuries. Bright Portuguese-style tiles add splashes of colour and character, their intricate patterns a testament to the artisanal craftsmanship of bygone days. As you're led to your table, you might catch glimpses of signed portraits of famous guests who have graced these halls – a veritable who's who of Barcelona's cultural elite through the ages.

While the decor might catch your eye, it's the menu that truly captures the essence of Can Culleretes. This is not just a restaurant; it's a custodian of Catalan culinary traditions, with dishes that have been perfected over generations. The menu is a delightful mix of time-honoured classics and innovative creations, all rooted firmly in the rich gastronomic heritage of Catalonia.
 

Ask any Barcelona native about Can Culleretes, and they're likely to mention one dish in particular: canelons. This beloved pasta dish is perhaps the most iconic item on the menu, a perfect example of the longstanding culinary exchange between Catalonia and Italy.

The history of canelons in Catalonia is fascinating. Trade with Italy and a later influx of Italian labourers led to a culinary cross-pollination that gave birth to this uniquely Catalan take on the Italian cannelloni. Over time, canelons became deeply ingrained in Catalan culture, evolving into a cherished Christmas dish typically made with leftover meats.

At Can Culleretes, the canelons take centre stage. Long pasta tubes, lovingly stuffed with a savoury mixture of veal and pork. This hearty filling is then enveloped in a velvety béchamel sauce, generously seasoned with aromatic nutmeg. The coup de grâce? A layer of Emmental cheese, melted to perfection and sporting a pleasantly charred top that adds a subtle smoky flavour to each bite.

This isn't just any pasta dish; it's a culinary phenomenon. Introduced to the restaurant's menu in the 1950s, canelons quickly became a favourite among patrons. Today, it reigns supreme as the best-selling item, with up to 300 portions flying out of the kitchen on a busy Sunday. It's a testament to the enduring appeal of this simple yet sophisticated dish.

While canelons might be the star of the show, Can Culleretes has another ace up its sleeve when it comes to festive fare: escudella. This hearty soup is a Christmas Day tradition in Catalonia, and Can Culleretes' version is renowned throughout Barcelona.

Escudella is a dish that truly embodies the spirit of Catalan cuisine – robust, comforting, and brimming with flavour. The foundation of this soup is a rich ham bone broth, simmered to perfection to extract every last bit of flavour. To this flavourful base, the chefs at Can Culleretes add an array of ingredients that turn the soup into a meal in itself.

First come the galets – snail-shaped pasta that's a signature element of escudella. These pasta shells are perfect for catching and holding the delicious broth. Next, a medley of meats is added – perhaps tender chunks of veal or finely chopped butifarra sausage, a Catalan speciality. The soup is then bulked out with hearty vegetables: garbanzo beans for protein, carrots for sweetness, potatoes for substance, and cabbage for a touch of green.

The result is a warming, satisfying dish that's perfect for cold winter days and festive celebrations alike. It's little wonder that escudella has become a beloved tradition at Can Culleretes, drawing families and friends to share in this communal dining experience year after year.

While canelons and escudella might be the headliners, the supporting cast on Can Culleretes' menu is equally impressive. The restaurant prides itself on serving a wide array of traditional Catalan dishes, each prepared with the same care and attention to detail as their more famous counterparts.

One of the hallmarks of Catalan cuisine is the inspired combination of fruit and meat, a culinary tradition that Can Culleretes embraces wholeheartedly. Take, for instance, the ànec guisat amb prunes – a mouthwatering dish of duck braised with prunes. This dish exemplifies the Catalan knack for balancing flavours, with the rich, savoury duck complemented perfectly by the sweet, tangy prunes.

For those with a sweet tooth, Can Culleretes offers a classic Catalan dessert: mel i mató. This simple yet elegant dish consists of mató, a local cottage cheese, drizzled with golden honey and topped with crunchy walnuts. It's a perfect end to a meal, light enough not to overwhelm but satisfying enough to round off the dining experience on a high note.

Dining at Can Culleretes is more than just a meal; it's an experience that engages all the senses. The sights of the historic interior, the sounds of convivial chatter and clinking cutlery, the smells wafting from the kitchen, the textures of the lovingly prepared dishes, and of course, the tastes of centuries of culinary tradition – all combine to create a truly memorable event.

For those looking to sample a variety of Can Culleretes' offerings, the restaurant's set menus are an excellent choice. These range from a tapas spread perfect for sharing and grazing to a seafood-centric feast that showcases the bounty of the nearby Mediterranean. These set menus offer excellent value for money, allowing diners to experience a broad spectrum of flavours and dishes without breaking the bank.

It's worth noting that Can Culleretes' popularity means that reservations are essential. The restaurant's reputation, combined with its historic significance and the quality of its food, ensures that tables are in high demand. Planning ahead and booking in advance is the best way to guarantee your spot in this culinary time capsule.

Can Culleretes is more than just a place to eat; it's a living, breathing piece of Barcelona's history. Its longevity is a testament not only to the quality of its food but also to its ability to adapt and evolve while staying true to its roots. It has survived wars, economic upheavals, and changing food trends, emerging stronger and more beloved with each passing year.

The restaurant serves as a bridge between past and present, allowing diners to experience traditional Catalan cuisine in much the same way as their ancestors might have. It's a place where food is not just sustenance, but a celebration of culture, history, and community.

So, the next time you find yourself in Barcelona, why not step off the beaten path of tourist traps and trendy eateries? Instead, make your way to the Gothic Quarter and push open the door of Can Culleretes. Take a seat, peruse the menu, and prepare to embark on a culinary journey through time. Whether you opt for the iconic canelons, the festive escudella, or any of the other traditional dishes on offer, you're sure to leave with a full stomach, a happy heart, and a newfound appreciation for the rich Catalan cuisine.

In Spanish cuisine, few dishes embody the rustic charm and hearty flavours quite like Migas Extremeñas. This beloved traditional dish, hailing from the Extremadura region of Spain, is a testament to the ingenuity of Spanish cooks who could transform humble ingredients into a meal fit for kings. Today, we'll delve into the world of Migas Extremeñas, exploring its history, preparation, and cultural significance.

Migas, which literally translates to "crumbs" in English, is a dish that originated as a way to use up stale bread, a common staple in Spanish households. While variations of migas can be found across Spain, from Aragón to Andalucía and the two Castillas, the Extremeñan version has its own unique characteristics that set it apart.

The origins of migas can be traced back to the shepherds and farmworkers of rural Spain. These hardworking individuals needed a filling, energy-packed meal to sustain them through long days in the fields or tending to their flocks. Migas provided just that – a simple yet satisfying dish that could be prepared with readily available ingredients.

At its core, Migas Extremeñas is a dish centred around bread. However, it's not just any bread that will do. The key to perfect migas lies in using a compact loaf with plenty of crumb, aged for at least 2-3 days to ensure it's sufficiently dry and hard. This seemingly unappetising starting point is the foundation for a dish that will surprise and delight your taste buds.

Ingredients (for 2 servings):

150g of stale bread
85ml of water
1/2 teaspoon of salt
4 garlic cloves
1/2 green bell pepper
100g fresh pork belly (pancetta)
30g olive oil
1 teaspoon sweet paprika

The Process

Preparing the Bread: The first step in creating Migas Extremeñas is to cut the stale bread into tiny cubes, roughly the size of chickpeas. These small bread pieces are then placed in a bowl and moistened with water seasoned with salt. This mixture is then covered with a cloth and left to rest for at least two hours, allowing the bread to absorb the water and soften slightly.

Preparing the Accompaniments: While the bread is resting, prepare the other ingredients. The garlic cloves are crushed (with their skins left on), the green bell pepper is finely sliced, and the pork belly is cut into thin strips. These elements will add depth of flavour and textural contrast to the finished dish.

Cooking the Vegetables and Meat: The cooking process begins by heating some olive oil in a cazuela (a traditional Spanish earthenware cooking pot) over medium-high heat. The green pepper strips are fried first until they turn golden, then set aside. Next, the pork belly is fried until crispy and golden, and then it is also reserved to one side.

Creating the Flavour Base: More olive oil is added to the cazuela, and the crushed garlic cloves are fried until golden. At this point, sweet paprika is quickly stirred in, careful not to let it burn, as this would impart a bitter taste to the dish.

Cooking the Migas: The moistened bread cubes are now added to the cazuela. This is where patience becomes a virtue. The bread must be constantly stirred and cooked for 15-20 minutes until it becomes dry, crispy, and golden. This process requires attention and care to ensure the migas don't stick together or burn.

The Final Touch: Once the migas have reached the perfect texture, the reserved green pepper and pork belly are added back to the cazuela and mixed thoroughly with the bread.

Serving: Migas Extremeñas are best served immediately while still hot and crispy.

Migas Extremeñas is more than just a dish; it's a cultural icon that represents the resourcefulness and creativity of Spanish cooking. It exemplifies the Spanish approach to cuisine, where simple, locally available ingredients are transformed into something truly special through technique and patience.

Variations and Accompaniments

While this recipe focuses on a version with green pepper and pork belly, there are countless variations of Migas Extremeñas. Some cooks might add red pepper for a splash of colour, or substitute the pork belly with chorizo for a spicier kick. Some versions even include both, creating a more complex flavour profile.

Migas can be served on their own as a hearty breakfast or lunch, but they are often accompanied by other dishes to create a more substantial meal. Common accompaniments include:

Fried eggs: The rich, runny yolk provides a delicious contrast to the crispy migas.
Grapes or melon: The sweetness and juiciness of fruit offer a refreshing counterpoint to the savoury migas.
Sardines or other small fish: Adding a protein element and a taste of the sea.
A simple green salad: To add freshness and balance to the meal.

While Migas Extremeñas might not be the first dish that comes to mind when thinking of healthy food, it does have some nutritional merits. The bread provides complex carbohydrates for sustained energy, while the olive oil offers healthy fats. The addition of vegetables like green pepper increases the fibre and vitamin content.
However, it's worth noting that this is a calorie-dense dish, with each serving containing approximately 570 calories. As with many traditional dishes, it's best enjoyed in moderation as part of a balanced diet.

In an era of fast food and instant gratification, dishes like Migas Extremeñas serve as a reminder of the value of slow cooking and traditional methods. The time and effort required to prepare this dish encourage us to slow down, to be present in the cooking process, and to appreciate the transformation of simple ingredients into something spectacular.

Migas Extremeñas is more than just a recipe; it's a journey through Spanish history and culture. From its humble origins as a shepherd's meal to its current status as a beloved traditional dish, migas tells a story of resourcefulness, patience, and the magic that can happen in the kitchen when simple ingredients are treated with respect and care.

Whether you're a seasoned cook looking to explore Spanish cuisine or a food enthusiast eager to taste the flavours of Extremadura, preparing Migas Extremeñas is an adventure worth embarking upon. So gather your ingredients, summon your patience, and prepare to create a dish that has delighted Spanish palates for generations. Who knows? You might just find that these little "crumbs" become a new favourite in your culinary repertoire.
 

Imagine biting into a perfectly golden, slightly sweet bread with a crisp exterior and a soft, fluffy interior. This delicious treat is none other than panquemao, also known as 'pan quemado' or toña, a traditional Spanish Easter bread that has been delighting taste buds for generations. 

Panquemao, which translates to "burnt bread" in English, is a misleading name for this delightful pastry. Far from being burnt, it's a beautifully golden-brown sweet bread that's particularly popular in the Valencia region of Spain. The name actually comes from its deeply caramelised crust, which gives way to a soft, white, and spongy interior.

This Easter treat shares many similarities with the more widely known mona de pascua, another Spanish Easter cake. However, the key difference lies in the baking process, which gives panquemao its distinctive appearance and texture.

Like many traditional foods, panquemao is deeply rooted in Spanish culture, particularly in the Easter celebrations of the Valencia region. It's not just a bread; it's a symbol of togetherness, family, and the joy of the Easter season.

Typically, panquemao is enjoyed as an afternoon snack or merienda, often accompanied by a steaming cup of hot chocolate. This pairing creates a comforting and indulgent treat that's perfect for sharing with loved ones during the Easter period.

Ingredients: 

To create this heavenly bread, you'll need the following ingredients (this recipe serves 8):

15g fresh yeast
50g lukewarm milk
250g strong flour
2 medium eggs
90g white sugar (60g for the dough, 30g for sprinkling)
40g butter at room temperature
A pinch of salt
Zest of half a lemon
1 beaten egg for brushing

These simple ingredients come together to create a bread that's greater than the sum of its parts. The strong flour provides structure, while the eggs and butter contribute to the rich flavour and tender crumb. The lemon zest adds a subtle citrus note that brightens the overall flavour profile.

Creating the perfect panquemao is a labour of love that requires patience and attention to detail. Here's a step-by-step guide to making this delightful bread:

• Begin by mixing the fresh yeast with the lukewarm milk. This step activates the yeast, preparing it to work its magic on the dough.
• In a large mixing bowl or stand mixer, combine the yeast mixture with the strong flour, eggs, 60g of white sugar, butter, salt, and lemon zest. Knead this mixture for about 20 minutes until you have a smooth, elastic, and homogeneous dough. Don't be tempted to add more flour if the dough seems sticky – it will come together beautifully as it rests.
• Shape the dough into a ball and place it in a greased bowl. Cover with cling film or a clean kitchen towel and let it rise until it doubles in volume.
• Once the dough has doubled, gently deflate it by pressing out the air.
• Reshape the dough into a tight ball. This step is crucial for achieving the characteristic shape of panquemao.
• Allow the shaped dough to rise again until it doubles in size. This second rise can take anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour, depending on the ambient temperature.
• Preheat your oven to 220°C (428°F) with heat from both top and bottom.
• Place the risen dough in the preheated oven and bake for 5 minutes. This initial high-heat bake helps to set the structure of the bread.
• Remove the bread from the oven and reduce the temperature to 180°C (356°F).
• Brush the partially baked bread with beaten egg and sprinkle with the remaining 30g of sugar. This step is what gives panquemao its characteristic golden, slightly crunchy crust.
• Return the bread to the oven and bake for an additional 20 minutes, or until it's beautifully golden brown.
• Allow the panquemao to cool completely before slicing and serving.

The Science Behind the Perfect Panquemao

The process of making panquemao involves some fascinating food science. The initial high-temperature bake causes the water in the dough to turn to steam rapidly, which helps the bread to rise quickly and develop a crisp crust. This is known as "oven spring" in baking terms.
The egg wash and sugar sprinkle applied halfway through baking serve multiple purposes. The egg provides proteins and fats that brown beautifully in the heat of the oven, contributing to the golden colour. The sugar caramelises, adding both colour and flavour to the crust.
The two-stage baking process – starting hot and then reducing the temperature – allows for this perfect balance of a crisp, caramelised exterior and a soft, tender interior.

While panquemao is delicious on its own, there are many ways to enjoy this versatile bread:

Traditional: Serve slices of panquemao with a cup of rich, dark hot chocolate. The contrast between the sweet bread and the slightly bitter chocolate is divine.
Savoury Twist: Try serving panquemao with hard-boiled eggs or dry-cured meats like 'longaniza de pascua'. The sweetness of the bread pairs surprisingly well with these savoury elements.

Breakfast: Toast slices of Panquemao and spread with butter and jam for a decadent breakfast treat.
Dessert: Use panquemao as a base for a bread pudding or trifle for a unique twist on classic desserts.
Gift: Panquemao makes for a thoughtful homemade gift during the Easter season. Wrap a loaf in decorative paper and present it to friends or family.

Preserving Your Panquemao

If you find yourself with leftover panquemao (although this is rarely a problem!), you can store it in an airtight container at room temperature for 2-3 days. For longer storage, you can freeze slices of panquemao for up to 3 months. Simply thaw and toast when you're ready to enjoy.

So why not try your hand at making this Spanish delicacy? With a bit of patience and care, you can create a panquemao that rivals those found in the best bakeries of Valencia. And as you bite into that perfectly golden crust and soft, fluffy interior, you'll understand why this humble bread has been cherished for generations. ¡Buen provecho!