The Spanish Fly - Travels in Spain

The Camino de Santiago

I first heard about this pilgrimage route when I was an undergraduate studying Spanish in the north west of England. Then The Camino kept cropping up.

    [Map courtesy of Facebook]

Several writers on Spain referred to it. I went on a course through the European Union Socrates programme which was held in one of the starting points, Jaca (Aragon).

Two parishioners from my local church in Cheshire did the walk and gave a talk in church one evening with slides, which I attended.

Hollywood star Shirley MacLaine wrote a book after she had walked the route.

There was a TV series and several films. As it happens I live not far from the approved southern route. 

Why this article now?

Today at my libreria in Ronda, I stumbled across a great illustrated book on the Camino. At just 19,95 euros I couldn't resist it. A belated birthday present from me to me.

I regret not walking The Camino when I was younger and fitter. Now, aged 75, I will not be able to manage it. Covid-19 left me with issues of balance, mobility and breathlessness, so, unless I do it by car, which I shan't, I will have to continue to enjoy The Camino vicariously.

Indeed the book I bought, "Atlas Ilustrado del CAMINO DE SANTIAGO", stated on the back cover:

"Es una obra para disfrutar de la cultura y los pueblos del Camino, tanto si se piensa en hacerlo como si ya se ha hecho o solo se desea conocerlo desde casa."

[Photo by Paul Whitelock]

The Camino at 20

When I started to study Spanish ab initio at Salford University in 1968, I knew very little about Spain. That changed quickly once we got into the course and even more so when we were sent on our six months to San Sebastian.

I started to hear about the Camino de Santiago and realised it was a big deal. The cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, the ultimate destination and endpoint, is one of the most popular pilgrimage sites in Europe. There are six official routes starting at different points around Spain.

More on the Camino

Washington Irving, Laurie Lee and George Orwell all mentioned the Camino in their writings.

[Photos (L to R): Wikipedia; Paul Whitelock; Wikipedia]

Jaca 1998

A quarter of a century into my career in education (15 years as a languages teacher and then as a schools adviser and OfSTED inspector) I got the chance to attend a European Union Socrates Programme Spanish course in Jaca, Aragon. The course was a refresher course for professional linguists from across Europe.

Those two weeks over 25 years ago remain amongst the highlights of my life. I went with my girlfriend at the time, a languages advisory teacher based in London. Anne was predominantly a French expert with some Spanish and needed to improve her level of Spanish. I had been "out of the classroom" for nearly 10 years, so I had become somewhat rusty and needed a refresher. 

We flew from Gatwick to Tarbes in France, hired a car and headed off to Aragon via San Sebastian and Fuenterrabia. A night in the Hotel Niza on the bay of La Concha in the elegant Victorian resort followed by a night in the Parador in Fuenterrabia, arguably one of the best paradores in the near-100-strong chain.

When we got to Jaca and checked in to the training centre of the University of Aragon, we learned that this Pyrennean town was the starting point for one of the northern routes of the Camino de Santiago. The place was heaving with pilgrims/walkers.

"We should walk the Camino one day," I pronounced. Of course we never did, as our relationship sadly ended the following year.

   Jaca, Aragon [Facebook]

Oviedo 2002

My next "contact" with The Camino came when I took part in a EU Study Visit to Asturias to look at early years  foreign language provision. A foreign language, usually English, is compulsory in Spanish schools from the age of three.

On of the northern pilgrimage routes passes close by Oviedo, the town in which we were based.     

Apart from the course which was excellent and the visits to schools, I drank cider in the traditional way, enjoyed a different part of Spain and - ahem - had a little dalliance on the side. With a very open-minded German headteacher.

Oviedo [Turismo de Asturias]

Thelwall, Cheshire

John and Joan Arthurs, neighbours of ours, walked The Camino the year they both retired from work.

They gave a presentation with slides, anecdotes and not a little humour at All Saints Church in Thelwall.

I attended and felt inspired by their achievement.

   [https://allsaints.org.uk]

Shirley MacLaine

Her book "The Camino" was, for me, a disappointment. It was more a book about her mental state at the time.

   [Photo: Paul Whitelock]

TV Series

In a 2018 three-part travelogue series for BBC Two, seven famous faces were stripped of their everyday comforts to live as modern day pilgrims as they set out on the famous medieval pilgrimage, the Camino de Santiago.

L to R: Kate Bottley, Raphael Rowe, Neil Morrissey, JJ Chalmers, Ed Byrne, Debbie McGee and Heather Small [BBC]

With just over a fortnight to tackle this ancient path, actor Neil Morrissey, entertainer Debbie McGee, comedian Ed Byrne, singer Heather Small, priest Kate Bottley, journalist Raphael Rowe and TV presenter JJ Chalmers hiked through France and northern Spain to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela and the shrine of St James.

The group - made up of a variety of faiths and beliefs, including Christian, atheist and humanist - lived as simple pilgrims. But did this journey of a lifetime change the way they thought about themselves and their faith?

The pilgrimage sorted the seasoned walkers like Ed and JJ from the strollers, such as Neil, who soon realised he might not be prepared for the task ahead. As a former Catholic, and now atheist, Neil soon discovered that the arduous experience was not bringing him any closer to God.

Meanwhile, Kate’s faith took a knock as she struggled to keep up with the group, while Raphael refused to be swayed by anything religious - in prison he clung to hope, not God, after serving time for a crime he did not commit. For Debbie, she found solace in a fellow traveller after opening up about the loss of her husband, the late magician Paul Daniels.

As they moved along the route through vast mountain ranges and stunning landscapes in France and Spain, the group explores their differing religious beliefs, bond over the physical task and find humour when they realise what living like a simple pilgrim entails.

The Film "El Camino" (The Way)

This was a fictional Hollywood film from 2010, which starred Martin Sheen and was directed by his son Emilio Estevez.

A father (Sheen) heads to Spain from the USA to recover the body of his estranged son, who died while walking the "Camino de Santiago", and decides to complete the pilgrimage in honour of his son.

I've not seen the film, but I will have a look sometime soon.

[Image courtesy of Amazon.es]    

Me and the Camino

On my bucket list for 2025 is a visit to Galicia, the only one of Spain's 17 regions I've never visited. That will include a visit to Santiago de Compostela, the ultimate destination of all the pilgrimage routes along The Way of St James.

Otherwise, as I indicated earlier my experience of The Camino will be vicarious, ie at a distance.

Photo of Santiago Cathedral [Turismo de Galicia]    

© The Spanish Fly

Links:

BBC 2: 'Pilgraimage - The Road To Santiago'

The best movies and series based on the Way of St. James - I Love Compostela

Photos:

amazon.es, BBC, Facebook, IMDb, Paul Whitelock, Turismo de Galicia, Wikipedia

Thanks:

Paul Whitelock, Wikipedia

Tags:

All Saints Church Thelwall, amazon.es, Aragon, Asturias, "Atlas Ilustrado del CAMINO DE SANTIAGO", BBC, Camino, Camino de Santiago, cider, Debbie McGee, Ed Byrne, Emilio Estevez, European Union Socrates programme, EU study visit, Facebook, Fuenterrabia, George Orwell, Heather Small, Hotel Niza, IMDb, Jaca, JJ Chalmers, John and Joan Arthurs, Kate Bottley, La Concha, Laurie Lee, Martin Sheen, Neil Morrissey, Oviedo, Parador, Paula, Paul Daniels, Paul Whitelock, pilgrimage, Raphael Rowe, San Sebastian, Shirley MacLaine, "The Way", Turismo de Galicia, Washington Irving, Wikipedia, YouTube

At the last minute it fell to me to take our German friends Iris and Heidi to Jerez airport for their Condor flight back to Hamburg.

We left Ronda at 06.00 am with the aim of getting to this delightfully small airport by 08.00 am.

Jerez Airport [andalucia.com]    

To Jerez Airport

We only took 90 minutes, as there was very little traffic at that ungodly hour. I thought I might get sleepy at the wheel, so we had arranged that Iris would take over. As it turned out she kept me awake - we didn't stop talking for the entire journey.

At Jerez Airport, you can park right by the Terminal Building, so I went in and had a coffee with them while we queued and helped with their luggage.

My car park charge was a mere 1.85 euros.

Then I headed off to El Puerto de Santa Maria, to spend a day in this delightful area. I'd been there once before in 2024 and liked it a lot.

El Puerto de Santa Maria

It was still early when I got there, just before 09.00 am. First I went to ALDI to buy some provisions before setting off to find somewhere to park.

I found a spot near the canal, but it was early and nothing was open.

So, I headed into the Old Part to look for somewhere to leave the car. I put it in an underground car park and then went for breakfast - I was starving!

I found an agreeable looking cafe with a table on the shady terrace and ordered a breakfast to die for.

Strolling around I took a series of photos to compile a photo essay on the town.

Then I stumbled on a Solidarios charity shop where I got two pictures, a belt and a cuddly toy for a mere 10 euros.

Later, after I had retrieved my car, I headed off to La Puntilla beach for a siesta.

La Puntilla

La Puntilla beach is divided into six zones. There are no chiringuitos on the beach and no hamacas to rent. It's all very natural.

I chose Zone 1, which was not busy and had a wide beach backed by palm trees. I was able to indulge my passion of nude sunbathing. I don't think I was the only one!

It was rather cloudy, which was a good thing. I drank a beer, ate some snacks and had a snooze.

Then, I went to the quiosko for a beer and had a great chat with the owner, Paco.

    [Photos by Paul Whitelock]

Home time

I left the beach around 18.00 pm and headed off home to Ronda via Median Sidonia and Arcos de la Frontera.

What a great day!

© The Spanish Fly

Links:

With thanks to:

Paul Whitelock, The Spanish Fly

Tags:

Arcos de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa Maria, Paul Whitelock, The Spanish Fly

The other weekend I went on a journey into the unknown - to the East. To East London, to Stratford. To visit my daughter in her new home there. I still hadn't seen it since she moved last year.

    Stratford, East London [Photo courtesy of Time Out]

She was away on school camp with her youngest, (Hey!) Jude, my grandson.

    (Hey!) Jude at camp [Photos: Amy Gibbs]

Arrival in the unknown

So, I had to find her flat and get in, as it turned out, without the aid of Google Maps, since my mobile had no signal and then it ran out of charge.

My UK bank card was constantly declined so I popped into a local branch of said bank, Santander UK, the biggest bank in Britain, by the way, to try and resolve the problem.

"Sorry, sir, your card has been blocked, We'll have to issue a new one."

I explained my situation, ie that I don't live in the UK and I was only in the UK for a short family visit.

The nice lady said they would send a new card to my home address in Spain.

"That will take ages and won't solve my current problem. Can't I pick one up here, say tomorrow, Saturday morning or Monday?"

"Sorry, sir, it isn't that fast."

  [Santander Bank UK logo]    

I was beginning to hate my bank with a passion ..... until the nice lady said I could get cash from her if I could ID myself.

I handed her my passport and Spanish residence permit and she gave me 500 pounds in cash.

500 pounds [Image courtesy of FinSMEs]    

First things first

I was starving. I had eaten a very small and very early breakfast on the plane, but now needed something further.

Nowhere was open, until I discovered a Bulgarian cafe which was doing a roaring trade in breakfasts and also had a range of beers from that former eastern bloc country.

So I ordered a fry-up, which I washed down with two different beers from Bulgaria.

    My Bulgarian breakfast [Photos: PW]    

When it came to paying I had a choice of cash or my Spanish credit card.

No such luck when I boarded a bus. I had no Oyster Card and, I thought, no functioning UK bank card. 

"Sorry, sir,  we don't take cash!" the polite West Indian bus driver informed me. So I tried tapping my cancelled bank card. It worked! Or so the driver said. I think he had taken pity on me.

Finding the flat

Having acquired some cash, all I had to do was find Amy's flat without a mobile to lead me there.

Well, I managed it in the end, but it had taken a while.

I settled in, then went for a walk to The Westfield Centre, where I bought some little gifts for the grandkids and Amy and Tom. I could pay with my Spanish credit card.

I had left my 500 quid at the flat, but I had enough small change for a half pint of Beavertown at The Crown and Anchor, before heading back to Icona Point.

Icona Point [Photo courtesy of PW]    

Amy's flat is in an excellent location with views of The Olympic Village from its two balconies. West Ham United FC has taken over the former Olympic Athletics Stadium and the highest tunnel helter-skelter in the world looms large.

Between The Olympic Village and Amy's flat lies Stratford International Railway Station, a noisy junction for trains to the continent, Southern Rail, the DLR, and the London Underground.

But you soon get used to the constant noise. Let's face it, big cities are noisy places.

The Olympic Village [Photo: PW]    

The East London Beer Scene

The East End is a veritable real ale drinker's paradise, with a range of cask ales from various brewers, as well as a few brew-pubs.

I knew Tap East; King Edward VII; Ye Olde Black Bull; The Bow Bells and a few others from previous visits.

    The Bow Bells, Bow

    Tap East Brew Pub, Stratford Centre

    King Edward VII, Stratford [CAMRA]                   Ye Olde Black Bull, Stratford [CAMRA]

    All the above photos by Paul Whitelock, unless otherwise stated.

Thursday night in Stratford

In the evening I went for a stroll in the Olympic Village area looking for something to eat. Can you believe it? Everywhere was shut or in the process of closing. So I had to dine on good beer!

Then I found somewhere open, another pub with its own brewery, the quirkily named Jim &Tonic.

    Jim & Tonic, Stratford [Photos by Paul Whitelock]

Friday  Fun

Amy got back from camp late morning, so after she had freshened up went for lunch at Riverside East.

We sat outside and had a nice time, "great bantz", tasty food and quality beers from the US and Italy.

    Map: GoogleMaps              Photo: Paul Whitelock

Then it was time to go and pick up the boys from school.

School 360, very soviet-sounding, but a great school with an amazing OfSTED judgement - well deserved, in my opinion.

I had been an OfSTED inspector during my career and was very impressed with what I saw on a prior visit to the school a few years ago, when Felix first started there.

   [logo courtesy of school360.org.uk]   [Photo courtesy of e-architect]                            Jude, Amy and Felix [Photo: PW]

After school we went to the nearby shop for ice creams and drinks, then headed home via the park.

    [All three photos by Paul Whitelock]

Saturday down south

I had offered to replace Amy's en-suite shower, which was yucky and loosely fitted, so I went out early to a nearby branch of Travis Perkins to buy what I needed.

When I returned I got Felix to be my plumber's mate. This entailed him passing me things, while I explained what we were doing.

I think he could turn out like me, his grandad, and like my son Tom, his dad. We are both competent DIY-ers/amateur builders who learned from our dads.

    [Cartoon courtesy of Facebook]

After breakfast we got ready for our trip to Hastings on the train, where we were going to stay with Tom and Su to celebrate Buckley's birthday at a BBQ/garden party with extended family .....

..... and Father's Day on Sunday.

    'Standing room only' [PW]

You can read about that experience, the second part of my journey, here: 

Long weekend in the UK - Eye on Spain

Other links:

Hey Jude (Remastered 2015) - YouTube

The Building History of a 72-year-old DIY Fan - Eye on Spain

The “Crazy Guy” gets his house finished just in time - Secret Serrania de Ronda

© The Spanish Fly

With thanks to:

Eye on Spain, The Beatles, The Spanish Fly, www.help-me-ronda.com, YouTube

Pictures:

Amy Gibbs, e-architect, Facebook, Santander Bank, Susannah Austin, Time Out, Tom Whitelock, Tony Gomersal, Paul Whitelock, school360.org.uk, 

Tags:

amateur builder, Amy Gibbs, BBQ, Bow, Bow Bells, Buckley's birthday, DIY-er, East London, Edward VII, en-suite shower, Felix, garden party, Hastings, "Hey, Jude!", Jeryl Burgess, Jim & Tonic, journey to the east, Jude, Paul Whitelock, Riverside East, school 360, school camp, Stratford, Stratford Centre, Stratford International, Susannah Austin, Tap East, The Spanish Fly, Tom Whitelock, Tony Gomersal, Travis Perkins, Ye Olde Bull's Head

Can the local Spanish tell the difference? Or is it only we foreigners who struggle?

These are all names of villages round here, but which is which?

Jimena de la Frontera

Jimena is a spectacular hill village in Cadiz province, on the way from Ronda to Algeciras.

I know it well. Years ago I used to visit every fortnight when I was a "paper boy" for The Olive Press. I loved it. To find out why, read this:

   Diary of a paper boy in Andalucia - Olive Press News Spain

   [Photo: www.jimenadelafrontera.es]

Jimera de Libar

I know Jimera de Libar even better than its near-namesake. Just 20 minutes away, Estacion de Jimera is the home of Bar Allioli (now Bar Allioli y Mas), a bar with food and live music at the weekends and bank holidays, located by the railway station and with a spectacular mountain backdrop.

Owned for years by Paul Darwent and his Danish wife Synnove, it built up a reputation for quality live music and "international burgers".

    [Photo: www.andalucia.org]

After Paul's retirement it was taken over by a local Spanish restaurateur, who continues to offer live music events (with Paul's help).

Jubrique

A tiny village in the hills above Genalguacil, Jubrique (Cadiz) is small but has great views and a couple of great little restaurants.

We like it a lot.

    [Photo: Blog]

Ubrique

Ubrique (also Cadiz) is a different kettle of fish. A large town, whose main industry is leather goods.

We've been a few times but it's not in our top ten.

    [Photo: Turismo de Cadiz]

Alcala

My first experience of a town called Alcala was in Alcala La Real (Jaen). It was 2009 and I was working for The Olive Press newspaper. Boss Jon Clarke sent me there for a week to sell advertisements (The OP is a free paper) and write stories for a "special" The OP had planned for the area.

I stayed in a hotel free-of-charge and got to eat, also for free, in several restaurants in the area in return for favourable reviews.

    [Photo: Traveler]

During my time there, I also got to know the staff of Olive Country Life magazine and ended up becoming a regular columnist for them.

Other Alcalas

Closer to home in Andalucia, there are a few Alcalas. Alcala is from the Arabic word for a citadel or fortess.

The first Alcala ever to enter my consciousness was:

Alcala de Henares

Located 50 km to the east of Madrid. It's the location of the parador de turismo closest to the Spanish capital.

Although I've visited/stayed in some 50-odd of the paradores, I haven't managed this one yet.

    [Photo: Spain.info]

Alcala de los Gazules

I've seen this on many a signpost while travelling in Cadiz province, but I've never been there.

Alcala del Valle

Also in Cadiz province, I`ve been there once.

Not much to recommend it, so I shan't be going back.

Alcala de Guadaira

[Awaiting text]

Photos and Images:

andalucia.org, Blog, Paul Whitelock, Spain.info, Traveler, Wikipedia, www.jimenadelafrontera.es

© The Crazy Guy

Links:

Diary of a paper boy in Andalucia - Olive Press News Spain

Alcalá la Real.- Conexiones, un proyecto para la integración entre culturas

With thanks to:

Secret Serrania, The Olive Press, Wikipedia,

Tags:

Alcala, Alcala de Guadaira, Alcala de Henares, Alcala de los Gazules, Alcala del Valle, Alcala la Real, Diane Dennett, Jimena de Libar, Jimera de la Frontera, Jon Clarke, Olive Country Life, Paul Darwent, Synnove, The Olive Press,