I haven't done this trip for a few years, so I was looking forward to our excursion last Friday. Starting from home in Ronda we headed for the start of the Genal Valley, which begins with the pretty "Enchanted Forest" (El Bosque Encantado) in Parauta.
Genal Valley map [Ayuntamiento de Juzcar]
We then continued on to Cartajima, the Village of Murals (Pueblo de Murales); to the Smurfs' village of Juzcar, mostly still painted blue; past Farajan; and on to Alpandeire, which celebrates Fray Leopoldo, a recently created saint. Alpandeire was our lunch destination. After a leisurely lunch it was back to Ronda on the Algeciras Road. A total of 86 kilometres.
The idea for the trip came about when our Maltese friends, John and Lorraine, owners of a house in Montejaque, invited us to join them for lunch at La Casa Grande in Alpandeire. I'd eaten there some years previously and remembered it being very good. For Rita it was to be a new experience.
Hotel La Casa Grande [Photo: Paul Whitelock]
Parauta
I always liked Parauta. I went there with Maude, a girlfriend, some 20 years ago and we nearly bought a place in the centre of the village.
Now it has all changed. Vehicles are no longer allowed into the village and this ban is enforced with GPS technology.
Parauta [Photo: Wikipedia]
Parauta has invested heavily in a major upgrade in an attempt to halt population decline.
It is now the Enchanted Village, with a visitor attraction, guided walks and other activities.
The aim is to attract more visitors and to provide employment for young people who are leaving the village in droves in search of work.
[Paul Whitelock]
[YouTube] [Paul Whitelock]
Cartajima
"El Pueblo de Las Murales", as it is known nowadays.
Cartajima has become famous in the last few years for its many murals painted on walls, gable ends, buildings and other surfaces.
As with Parauta, this is part of a strategy to attract more tourism to the village and to halt population decline.
Cartajima at sunset [Photo: Europa Press]
[Photos of Cartajima by Paul Whitelock]
Juzcar
Famous since 2016 as "El Pueblo Azul" or "El Pueblo Pitufo" ("The Smurfs Village"), Juzcar arrived with a bang on the tourist map and money has poured in from the pockets of visitors keen to see where the Smurfs movie was filmed by Walt Disney Enterprises of Hollywood.
Juzcar [Photo: Rustica Estates]
Signs as you enter the village
Juzcar village centre Rita and Paul (selfie)
[All above photos by Paul Whitelock]
Farajan
The name of the village, Farajan, comes from the Arabic language and means "pleasant location".
It is without doubt a most apt denomination as its geographical position at the head of the River Genal gives it a singular charm.
Farajan is situated among deep ravines traversed by streams flowing into the River Genal, the dominant feature in the area.
It is small in size and has a populaation of just 284 (INE 2024). At 645 metres above sea level, it has stunning views all around.
On this occasion, we did not linger long, but it is definitely worth a visit.
Farajan from afar [Photo: Wikipedia]
Alpandeire
Our arrival [Photos by Paul Whitelock]
The birthplace of Fray Leopoldo, a recently created saint. There are frequent references to him throughout the village, as well as a signposted walk. Guides are available for this and other activities.
[All photos by Paul Whitelock]
However, we weren't there because of this worthy monk, but to dine at the restaurant attached to Hotel La Casa Grande.
Our friends John and Lorraine dined there a week ago and were so impressed they wanted to eat there again before heading to Portugal to catch their flight home to Malta from Lisbon airport.
The meal:
John and I chose the same starter, but apart from that we all enjoyed different dishes.
The Dining Room Lorraine, Paul, Rita and John Puerro Ensalada / Carpaccio
Confit de pato Canellones Garbanzos Offal stew
[All photos by Paul Whitelock]
Endword:
Our day out did not disappoint. It was fascinating to revisit the villages of the Genal Valley after a significant time gap and to see all the changes that have been made.
Our lunch at La Casa Grande was also a treat. We enjoyed the food and the occasion immensely and we were delighted at the warm welcome from owner Jesus, his wife Maria and their outstanding chef, local boy Antoñito.
"We'll be back!"
© The Spanish Fly (aka Paul Whitelock)
Pictures:
Ayuntamiento de Juzcar, Europa Press, Paul Whitelock, Rustica Estates, Trip Advisor, Wikipedia, YouTube
Acknowledgements:
Ayuntamiento de Alpandeire, Ayuntamiento de Juzcar, Diputacion de Malagaa, John Saliba, Karl Smallman, Paul Whitelock, Secret Serrania, Wikipedia
Tags:
Algeciras, Alpandeire, Ayuntamiento de Juzcar, Cartajima, El Bosque Encantado, Europa Press, Farajan, Fray Leopoldo, Genal Valley, Juzcar, La Casa Grande, Maude, Montejaque, Parauta, Paul Whitelock, population decline, Pueblo Azul, Pueblo de Las Murallas, Rita, Rustica Estates, Serrania de Ronda, Smurfs, The Spanish Fly, Trip Advisor, Valle del Genal, Wikipedia, YouTube