"Surfer Girl" was another big hit for the Beach Boys - see also "Surfin' Safari". Madita, who is visiting us from Germany after finishing her "Mittlere Reife" (16-plus exams), was just that yesterday on the Costa de la Luz - a true "surfer girl".

Madita with her "Omma" Rita

A two-hour introductory surfing lesson was our gift to our 16-year-old granddaughter for doing so well in her exams, so off we went to El Palmar near Vejer de la Frontera. The sea was a bit rougher than the surfing teachers like for beginners, yet Madita made great progress and managed to stand up on her board several times, which is apparently unusual for first-timers. Hence my name for Madita - "Surfer Girl".

Rita helps Madita into her wetsuit

Her teacher, a long-haired surfing dude called Victor, was very attentive, full of good teaching techniques and with a positive and encouraging manner.

Despite being exhausted, Madita really enjoyed the experience and is already talking about coming back to "surf" again next year.

After a relaxing normal swim and a brief sunbathe, we packed up our beach kit - sunbeds, sun umbrella, towels and cold drinks - and headed back to the car.

Madita with teacher Victor

Now it was time for a late lunch / early dinner, before the two-and-a-half-hour journey back to Ronda. We headed for San Francisco, a beach-side fish restaurant that we knew from previous visits to El Palmar.

Madita is a committed vegetarian, by the way, ie no meat or fish.

We were given a warm welcome by our waiter Carlos, who pointed out dishes that could be adapted into vegetarian ones. We ordered drinks and then our food. Rita opted for vegetarian too, in order to support her grand-daughter.

They shared crema de salmorejo Cordobés con taquitos de jamón ibérico, with the ham pieces removed. Salmorejo is a thicker version of gazpacho. For mains they went for alcachofas de la huerta de Conil con salsa romesco y papada ibérica with the papadas (cheeks) removed. Madita also ordered a portion of french fries (chips, to a German, are what we British call crisps).

alcachofas de la huerta de Conil con salsa romesco y papada ibérica

I eschewed a starter and went for calamar de potera a la plancha con vinagreta de cebollino y pistachos o relleno a la antigua (a whole squid stuffed with goodies and grilled and accompanied by a long thin batter tube filled with vegetables). The best calamar I've ever had in my 50 plus years of visiting / living in Spain.

calamar de potera a la plancha con vinagreta de cebollino y pistachos o relleno a la antigua

The bill came to just over 100 euros - not bad for the quality we had enjoyed and the number of drinks (seven).

We headed home - Rita's turn to drive - with just one stop for a toilet break. We were back for 9.20 pm and a refreshing swim, followed by showers to get rid of the sand.

After that we shared our pictures and films of the day and sent a selection off to Madita's mum and dad.

© The Spanish Fly

Acknowledgements:

Alcarasurf SL

Cadiz a la carta

Paul Whitelock

Rita Whitelock

Links:

Bing Vídeos - "Surfer Girl"

Casa Francisco El de Siempre – Restaurante en el Palmar

Features III - costa de la luz - COSTA DE LA LUZ - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

The Spanish Fly - Travels in Spain (eyeonspain.com)

surfin safari beach boys - Búsqueda (bing.com)

Tags:

alcachofa, Arcos de la Frontera, Beach Boys, Cadiz a la carta, calamar, El Palmar, escuela de surf, gazpacho, Germany, La Troupe, Madita, Medina Sidonia, Mittlere Reife, Paul Whitelock, Rita, Rita Whitelock, Ronda, salmorejo, surf, "Surfer Girl", "Surfin' Safari", Vejer de la Frontera

Next weekend one of our German grand-daughters is coming to visit us here in Andalucia.

Madita, 16, the oldest daughter of Rita's oldest daughter Katrin, is travelling on her own from South Germany to spend a holiday with us. This is her "reward" from her parents for doing so well in her "mittlere Reife", the German equivalent of GCSEs/NVQs.

Our congratulatory gift to Madita, who is named after a Swedish children's author Astrid Lindgren character, is to be a surfing lesson, something Madita has never tried but is keen to do.

Off to the Costa de la Luz

So, off we went to Spain's Atlantic coast, northwest of Gibraltar, to do a recce.

Travelling west from Ronda, we soon crossed the provincial border from Malaga into Cadiz, before reaching Arcos de la Frontera*, a super pueblo blanco. Here we turned south towards Vejer de la Frontera* and El Palmar, one of the surfing hubs of this coast which runs from Tarifa up to Cadiz and beyond.

With a stop en route outside Arcos for a much needed coffee, we continued past Medina Sidonia* and Vejer, passing through fields of sunflowers, olive groves, solar panel "plantations" and forests of wind turbines until we reached our destination, the beach at El Palmar.

El Palmar, the beach of Vejer

It seemed relatively "busy" for a Monday, yet we were assured but our lunchtime waiter tha it was "quiet" compared to the Saturday and Sunday just gone.

We're getting ahead of ourselves. Before lunch we booked a two-hour beginner's lesson at the first surf school we tried.

Alex, a madrileño long "andalucizado", impressed us. He talked himself up as a trainer/teacher and "guaranteed" a great experience for Madita or our money back!

The cost of this two-hour session in a group of no more than six would be 30 euros. According to Rita, who had done lots of research over the weekend, this was more than reasonable.

So, we booked for next Tuesday, anticipating that the waves would not be too dangerous for beginners.

Lunch

Having achieved what we'd set out to do, we went for something to eat and drink. We chose "La Azotea" on the seafront, where we enjoyed a couple of beers each and shared two tapas: taco de maíz crujiente con atún rojo y guacamole, followed by saquitos brick con queso cremoso, puerros y langostinos. They were both delicious.

The bill was a whopping 50 euros, but, what the hell - it was a day-out on the coast and "La Azotea" was a very nice place!

For more information, please click here:

La Azotea EL Palmar – La Azotea (laazoteasevilla.com)

After lunch

We decided to head towards Tarifa. Valdevaqueros, to be precise, to check out the water sport scene there. Quite by accident we ended up at Dani Garcia's place. Dani is an acclaimed chef with stars who has restaurants in Marbella and now here. Apparently he pops in once a month. No doubt to collect his huge profits!

It was full of beautiful young people "on the pull", older hopefuls and us two. We were the oldest people there by a kilometre! The other clients must have been idle rich with more money than sense. I had a beer and Rita a coffee. That cost us 9 euros. Needless to say I didn't leave a tip!                                                                                                               

Photo: Europe Press

We headed off further south to a beach where, according to the internet, there was a German-speaking surf school. Although we were more than happy with what we'd booked in El Palmar, we wanted to check out kite-sailing. No sign of the school. We rang the number. They don't speak German, but they hung up on us anyway. We crossed them off our Christmas Card list.

For information, they are called Kite Fun Tarifa. Very unprofessional. I wouldn't touch them with a proverbial barge-pole.

Tarifa and Home

Tarifa is the southernmost point in Spain right where the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean meet. Tarifa is as far from Tangiers in Morocco as Dover is from Calais, just 15 kilometres.

As a resut Tarifa has a very African feel. I like it.

We spent ages trying to find somewhere to park, by which time we had lost interest in hanging around there, so after a brief stroll around the Old Part, we headed off home via Algeciras, San Roque, Jimena de la Frontera and Gaucin. It took ages to get home, but we had enjoyed a nice, if tiring, day.

In order to see how Madita got on when she took her beginners' class, click here:

"Surfer Girl" (eyeonspain.com)

©  The Spanish Fly

Links:

The BEST Tarifa Tours and Things to Do in 2024 - FREE Cancellation | GetYourGuide

Features III - costa de la luz - COSTA DE LA LUZ - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES, CAÑOS DE MECA, TRAFALGAR and BARBATE - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Acknowledgements (Photos):

Amazon

Costa de Cadiz

Europa Press

Guia de Cadiz

La Azotea

LinkedIn

Trip Advisor

Tags:

Arcos de la Frontera, Barbate, Cadiz, Caños de Meca, El Palmar, Europe Press, Gibraltar, Guia de Cadiz, La Azotea, Medina Sidonia, saquitos brick con queso cremoso puerros y langostinos, surf school, taco de maíz crujiente con atún rojo y guacamole, Trafalgar, Vejer de la Frontera, Zahara de los Atunes

Talk about biting the hand that feeds you!

What is The Spanish Fly talking about?

Large parts of Spain depend on tourism. The costas of the Mediterranean, the Costa de la Luz from Tarifa to Cádiz, Galicia, La Costa Cantábrica and el País Vasco. Away from the beaches there is rural tourism in areas of natural beauty such as inland Andalucía, Aragón, Castilla-León, Castilla-La Mancha, Extremadura.

And what about city tourism?

That’s where the main problem lies.

Anti-tourism demos

The local inhabitants of several big cities have turned against tourists. From Barcelona to Valencia, from Málaga to Cádiz. Why?

Because local workers feel they have been priced out of the rental market. The availability/supply of rental properties has shrunk since Airbnb and other rental companies came on the scene.

Property owners can make much more from tourists than from a long-term rental contract.

Barcelona has already outlawed Airbnb and other cities are thinking of doing the same.

The Spanish Islands

The anti-tourism wave on the Spanish Islands, ie the Balearics and the Canary Islands, is somewhat different.

Fed up with horrendous drunkenness, sh**ging on the streets and generally despicable behaviour, resorts like Palma Nova in Mallorca are trying to clean up their act.

The situation is similar in the more downmarket resorts of Tenerife in the Canaries. The locals have simply had enough of the debauchery.

Demonstrations

It has now got to the point where there are frequent demos against tourists, with hostile banners much in evidence.

At one airport, there were reports of activists trying to discourage northern Europeans from flying to Spain.

“Go to Greece, or Croatia,” they say.

What I think

Spain’s biggest money-earner is tourism. Hardly surprising, the second largest country in Europe is amazing.

From Andalucía, the white villages and the beaches; to Galicia and its “rias” (fjords); the Basque Country, with its spectacular scenery and its fabulous cuisine; to Aragón; Huesca; Cataluña; Madrid; País Valenciano; Extremadura; and the Costa de la Luz.

Spain is a country which offers incredible variety. “España es diferente” was the tourism slogan for decades.

So, what to do?

Clearly the tawdry resorts on the islands need to be cleaned up and the drunken riff-raff from the UK (by far the worst culprits), Germany, Finland, the Netherlands, et al discouraged from coming.

But what about the cities on the mainland?

Without tourists and the million or so retired northern Europeans, many places would simply die.

Take Málaga, for example. Since its make-over of the last dozen years, the city is full of foreigners, both residents and tourists.

For these, mainly northern Europeans, Spain is much cheaper than their countries of origin, so they are out and about all day long. They love the tapas, the bars and restaurants, the menús del día and the "life-on-the-streets" ambience.  

If the powers-that-be “banned” foreigners, many of these establishments would be forced to close.

The Spanish in Málaga can’t afford to patronise bars and restaurants morning, noon and night. They have to work for a living.

If the foreigners, guiris, do not come, many places will be forced to close. Then where would we stand?

Javier Recío argued this very point in a telling article entitled ¿Que sería del centro de Málaga sin los guiris?  which was published in Diario Sur on 9 June.

His view is that Málaga and other cities need to find a way to keep the tourists coming, yet provide affordable accommodation for Spanish workers.

© The Curmudgeon

Links:

Diario Sur

Guardian

Telegraph

Acknowledgements:

Diario Sur, Guardian, Javier Recío, Telegraph

Photos:

Daily Express, El País, Paul Whitelock, Sky News

Tags:

Airbnb, Andalucía, Aragón, atmosphere, Barcelona, bars, Basque Country, beaches, Cádiz, Castilla-La Mancha, Castilla-León, Cataluña, city tourism, Costa Cantábrica, Costa de la Luz, Daily Express, El Pais, demos against tourists, Diario Sur, drunken riff-raff, “España es diferente”, Extremadura, Finland, fjords, Galicia, Germany, Guardian, guiri, Huesca, Javier Recío, Madrid, Málaga, Mediterranean, menús del día, Netherlands, País Valenciano, País Vasco, Paul Whitelock, ¿Que sería del centro de Málaga sin los guiris?, restaurants, retired northern Europeans, rías, rural tourism, Sky News, Spanish Fly, tapas, Tarifa, Telegraph, tourists, Valencia, white villages

Way back in September 2011 Luisa and Simone of www.vayanda.com inspired me to write an article listing my top 10 favourite places in Andalucía.

Now, more than a dozen years later, I have clocked up nearly 16 years of residency in the largest of Spain’s autonomous regions, and the picture has changed significantly.

In those 12 years of living here full time I have travelled a fair bit and got to discover many more fascinating places.

I would not leave out the 10 places I listed back in 2011, so I have revised my article and it’s now my top 25.

Of course, one can always quibble about such lists, as they are, by definition, personal, but they are always the starting point for a healthy discussion.
 

My Top 10 in 2011

In fact, it was a top 13 with the big three cities of Córdoba, Granada and Sevilla getting a brief mention. The other 10, in alphabetical order, were, and still are:

Bolonia (Cádiz) - Without doubt the best beach in Andalucía, almost totally unspoilt, with the spectacular restored Roman city of Baelo Claudio as a backdrop.

BOLONIA and BAELO CLAUDIA - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Cádiz City - The oldest city in Europe is much under-rated. In the process of receiving a make-over, this is a port town to rival Liverpool or Hamburg. With its cámara oscura, fabulous fish market, atmospheric Old Town, its cathedral and fine beaches it takes some beating.

CADIZ -¡Que maravilla! - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Cazorla (Jaén) - A place to get away from it all. Mile upon square mile of virgin forest and little hint of civilisation. Boasts probably the remotest Parador hotel in the whole of Spain!

El Chorro (Málaga) - This series of linked reservoirs is stunning, with ample opportunities for sightseeing and bathing in the clear waters. It is also the starting point for the stunning Caminito del Rey.

Grazalema (Cádiz) - The wettest place in Spain, the scenery is spectacular, and the town is very pretty with oodles of ambiente.

A wander near Ronda: Spain’s empty quarter | Andalucia holidays | The Guardian

Jimena de la Frontera (Cádiz) - A stunning pueblo blanco perched on a hill with narrow cobbled streets and flowered balconies.

Diary of a paper boy in Andalucia - Olive Press News Spain (theolivepress.es)

Montejaque (Málaga) - This delightful pueblo blanco was my home for two happy years. With a permanent population of just under 1000 and 14 bars, the scenery and walks round about are second to none.

A Stroll through Montejaque - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Ronda (Málaga) - La Ciudad del Tajo, also known as La Ciudad Soñada, is where I now live after four decades of travelling throughout Spain. Ronda's location perched atop a stunning 100 metre gorge, with mountains all around, is breathtaking. With a splendid Old Town, as well as modern amenities, it meets the needs of residents and tourists alike.

Ronda, el choque ideal (the perfect place to meet) - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Tarifa (Cádiz) - The crossroads of Europe and Africa and the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. A fascinating pot-pourri of cultures at the southernmost tip of Europe.

Úbeda - Baeza (Jaén) - These two neighbouring towns boast stunning honey-coloured medieval buildings. To wander the streets is like going back in time.

My 2011 article provoked some comments:

Rosi Reed wrote in September 2011:

“I've been to 7 of these 10 and would agree with every one on the list.....the problem is that there's probably 10 more places that are every bit as worthwhile to visit. I'm not sure about Bolonia as the best beach though, we had clients there who have had problems with the local feral dogs. Can I post a vote for El Palmar for best beach? Can I also add to the list - Sevilla (and can't believe it was left off) and in Sevilla I would say best thing to do.....rent a bike for the day and ride around the network of bike paths through the centre and down by the river. Can I also add a vote for the place we sell more holidays in than any other - Jerez. It's the only town I know that smells of what has made it famous!”

Alison sent this message in June 2012:

“Oh, Vejer de la Frontera, amazing history, a Unesco world heritage site and the views from the old town towards the Bay of Trafalgar are amazing.”

The Spanish Fly responded:

“Hi, Alison and Rosi. Thank you for your comments. If I were to re-do my list now, I would certainly include Vejer, El Palmar, Jerez and Sevilla, all of which I have discovered and fallen in love with since my original article.
Maybe I should re-do it as my top 25 ... I would also add Cómpeta, Córdoba, Setenil de las Bodegas, Caños de Meca, Almuñecar, Frigiliana, Nerja and Torrox Pueblo.”

My Top 25 in 2024

After more than a dozen years of exploring other parts of the region that has been my home for more than 15 years, I’ve discovered other places I love.

Almuñecar (Granada)

I first went to Almuñecar and the Costa Tropical in 2012 on a press “freebie”. I liked the whole area back then. We revisited a couple of weeks ago and I loved it even more. Two great beaches, plenty of chiringuitos and restaurants and a charming casco antiguo.

Tropical fruits in Andalucía - Mmmm! - Olive Press News Spain (theolivepress.es)

Antequera (Málaga)

My first wife Jeryl and I called in to the Parador in Antequera on our silver wedding anniversary tour of Andalucía in 2000. We managed to wangle a swim in the pool, even though we weren’t staying there – they even provided us with towels! We went to look at the old part of town up the hill and loved it.

I took girlfriend Maude there also – she liked it too.

Finally, I traded in the amigos points I had accrued from the Parador network (I’ve stayed at or visited over 50 to date) for a two-night stay for me and Rita in 2023. Rita loved Antequera also.

10 lugares que ver en Antequera imprescindibles - Viajeros Callejeros

Arcos de la Frontera

One of my favourite of the Cádiz pueblos blancos. My first wife Jeryl and I first came across it in 2000 on our silver wedding anniversary tour of Andalucia. We stayed in the Parador, still one of our favourites. After a subsequent visit the following year, we were even considering buying a pied-à-terre in the town, before settling on Ronda.

As amigos de paradores we got a free walking tour of some of the stunning Andalusian patios in the casco antiguo – fabulous.

I've been back to Arcos many times, for breakfast in the Parador - the best ever - for lunch, and to show family visitors.

“FRIDGE OVER TROUBLED WATER” (eyeonspain.com)

Caños de Meca (Cádiz)

I’ve been here a couple of times with both of my wives (not together, I hasten to add!). Jeryl and I liked the coast around here, especially the naturist beach just outside the resort. Rita is less keen to get her kit off, but we enjoyed a nice meal and a walk to nearby Cape Trafalgar.

ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES, CAÑOS DE MECA, TRAFALGAR and BARBATE - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Cómpeta (Málaga)

My good friend John, a fellow hispanist, told me about Cómpeta many years ago, when he was thinking of buying a place there. In the end he plumped for Velez-Málaga and spent many happy years visiting his "place in the sun" with his wife Maggie and kids. Although he was by this time disabled as the result of a freak cycling accident, John still enjoyed spending time in Andalucía.

I visited Cómpeta for the first time in 2023. What a treat! Although many Brits live here, it didn't mar our experience. The steep, narrow streets and the evident civic pride combined to make it a charming place to spend time.

Córdoba City

This was always my favourite of the big three Andalusian cities. Small and charming. The Mezquita is simply stunning and the Alcázar too. I went there with my first wife Jeryl and my son Tom a long time ago and loved it. I returned some years later with a girlfriend, Maude, after my divorce, and still liked it. I haven’t made it yet with The Meter Maid, but it’s on the list.

ANDALUCIA’s 3 C’s: Cádiz, Córdoba, Ciudad Soñada - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Frigiliana (Málaga)

I first went to Frigiliana with Bertie, my dog, while Rita was recovering from Covid-19 in Germany. We stayed in a former ice-cream parlour in the Old Part. I fell in love with Frigiliana. So much so, that I took Rita there when she returned from Germany, to celebrate my 71^st birthday. We stayed in the same ice-cream parlour, Casa Moranga. We’ve also visited with friends Ian and Christine from Derbyshire, and with my daughter Amy and grandsons Felix and Jude.

BIRTHDAY OUTING TO FRIGILIANA - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Genalguacil (Málaga)

I’ve been to Genalguacil three times, twice for the annual Encuentros de Arte. Quite remote and inaccessible, it’s worth the effort to get there. The village is decorated with sculptures and other artwork which emerges from this annual competition. The village council invites a small group of artists from all over the world to come and live in the village and produce a piece of original artwork. All their expenses are covered, and each receives a bursary of 1000 euros. In exchange the artists donate their creations to the village.

GENALGUACIL - El Pueblo Museo - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Granada City

I have been to Granada many times and visited the Alhambra on each occasion. It is marvellous, if somewhat shabby. The Jewish quarter (Albaicín) is also lovely, as is the cathedral and the Old Town. Tapas are free.

Granada - Wikipedia

Málaga City 

I’ve always liked Málaga. It has much more to it than most people think. From The Picasso Museum and his Casa Natal (birth house), the Roman amphitheatre, a fascinating pedestrianised town centre, superb beaches, the refurbished industrial port, Gibralfaro mountain and so much more.

I first visited the city when we used to stay a night in the Parador de Gibralfaro at the beginning and end of trips to the area when we were still living in the UK.

Nowadays, we go to stay in the town centre for a night or two if I have a Costa Press Club “do” in the city.

MALAGA CITY - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Nerja (Málaga)

Jeryl, Tom and I visited Nerja way back in time and liked it. Rita and I now go fairly regularly to stay with friends Ian and Christine who holiday there every year. Although Nerja is very touristy, it doesn’t bother us, as the beaches are lovely and the chiringuitos too. In town, the bars and restaurants include a free tapa in the price of your drink.

I also took Amy, Felix and Jude there for two days in April this year and they liked it also.

Nerja - a little gem (eyeonspain.com)

Setenil de las Bodegas (Cádiz)

Setenil is one of the prettiest and most spectacular of the pueblos blancos around here. With its spectacular topology and charming cave-houses, mostly shops, bars and restaurants these days, it’s knockout. Only 20 minutes from home, we have visited often. The last time we went, earlier this year, there were too many tourists for my liking, but it’s still a must-see place.

SETENIL DE LAS BODEGAS - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Sevilla City

I think I’ve been to Sevilla six times. The first five times I hated it – too hot, and nowhere to park. The last visit in October 2023, Rita and I went by bus for half price (we’re senior citizens and have a tarjeta sesentaycinco*). We stayed for two nights in the casco antiguo in the four-star Hotel Murillo for 50€ a night including breakfast.

We did the cathedral, the largest in Europe, the Giralda Tower, and the    and we ate some great food. And the temperature was just right.

In Love with SEVILLA - at last! - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Torrox Pueblo (Málaga)

Torrox Costa has a certain charm, with a lovely beach and great chiringuitos. However, it is very much a German enclave. Don't get me wrong, I like Germans - my wife Rita is German - but I don't need them wall-to-wall in a Spanish beach resort.

Torrox Pueblo, a few kilometres inland, is a different kettle of fish entirely and is very charming.

Vejer de la Frontera (Cádiz)

Vejer is stunning. Perched upon a hill, it has the lot! Stunning views all around, a fabulous Old Part, great restaurants and a real ale brewery. We enjoy strolling around, soaking up the atmosphere. A famous car ad was filmed here, which sent its popularity through the roof.

Near to the fabulous beach resort of El Palmar, and not far from the resorts south of Cádiz.

Zahara de la Sierra (Cádiz)

Overlooking the embalse (reservoir), Zahara is delightful. The top of the town is where the action is with a street full of bars and souvenir shops, a hotel and the church. Down below there are restaurants overlooking the reservoir, where there is also a beach where you can hire pedaloes and kite surfers.

Readers' Comments:

DarNico wrote on 16 June 2024:

"And slightly off the beaten track, like Ronda fifty years ago with half price houses now, Arcos de la Frontera."

The Spanish Fly responded on 17 June as follows:

"Hi DarNico, Arcos de la Frontera was in my original list, but somehow disappeared during the final edit. I don't know how that happened, since Arcos remains one of my favourite towns. My first wife and I even considered buying there, before finally settling on Ronda. I love the Parador in Arcos. We stayed there a couple of times back in the day. I must add Arcos to my list!"

and has since done so (see above.)

©  The Spanish Fly

Other Links:

Amigos de Paradores | Paradores

“WHEN I’M 65…”: HOW TO ….. get a tarjetasesentaycinco (eyeonspain.com)

Photos:

ABC de Sevilla

Andalucia-web

Costa Press Club

Diario de Sevilla

Explore La Tierra

FaceBook

Genalguacil Pueblo Museo

Karl Smallman

Lonely Planet

Paul Whitelock

Renfe

Ronda Today

Trip Advisor

Turismo de Cádiz

Visitanddo

Wikipedia

YouTube

Sources:

Wikipedia

www.eyeonspain.com

www.help-me-ronda.com

www.secretserrania.com

Tags:

Albaicín, Alhambra, Almuñecar, amigos de paradores, Andalucía, Antequera, Arcos de la Frontera, Baeza, Bolonia, Cádiz, Cádiz City, cámara oscura, Caminito del Rey, Caños de Meca, Cazorla, Cómpeta, Córdoba, El Chorro, El Palmar, Frigiliana, Genalguacil, Granada, Grazalema, Hamburg, Jaén, Jimena de la Frontera, Sevilla, Baelo Claudio, Liverpool, Málaga, Montejaque, Nerja, parador, Ronda, Setenil de las Bodegas, Sevilla, silver wedding anniversary tour of Andalucia, Tarifa, Torrox Pueblo, Úbeda, Vejer de la Frontera, Velez-Malaga, Zahara de la Sierra 

By Pablo de Ronda and The Spanish Fly

The world’s largest and most successful low-cost airline, Ryanair, has been handed a massive fine for illegal charging of its customers. Three other budget carriers, EasyJet, Voltea and Vueling, were also fined.

Ryanair, the Irish airline, has been found guilty by the Spanish government of levying hand luggage charges and other irregularities, and has been handed a fine in excess of 100 million euros. The other airlines involved received lesser penalties.

FACUA, Spain’s consumer affairs watchdog, has been lobbying for the government to clamp down on these charges for six years. Their perseverance has finally paid off, although the airlines in question are likely to appeal.

Until now the highest such fine imposed was by the Junta de Andalucia on mobile phone company Movistar in 2016 for illegally raising their tariffs. That fine was a mere 6.23 million euros, although it was later reduced to 1.53 million on appeal.

For more information visit FACUA’s website at https://facua.org

Tags:

consumer affairs watchdog, easyJet, FACUA, Junta de Andalucia, Movistar, Pablo de Ronda, Ryanair, Spanish Fly, Spanish government, Voltea, Vueling

Montejaque is a village in the Sierra de Grazalema, part of the Serrania de Ronda. This pretty pueblo blanco of fewer than 1000 inhabitants is just 20 minutes by road from its more famous cousin Ronda, the largest town hereabouts.

An introduction

Montejaque is popular with walkers and birdwatchers from all over the world. Indeed, a small number of foreigners – forty or so – have made the village their permanent home. A similar number own properties here and visit when they can from their home countries.

The last time I looked there were homeowners/residents from Austria, Canada, England, France, Germany, Gibraltar. Hungary, Ireland, Italy, the Netherlands, New Zealand, the Philppines, Poland, Scotland, South Africa, Switzerland, USA, Wales, Zimbabwe.

A Walk on the Wild Side

There are a large number of walks which either start in the village or which are en route from other places.

One of our favourites is just outside the village on the Sevilla Road. Called the Cañada Real de Los Alcorconales it is a protected footpath through private land. The route is largely shaded by cork oaks and other trees. There is a huge lake, a disused bandstand and a huge range of flora and fauna. It is silent apart from birdsong and the breeze rustling the leaves of the trees. It’s marvellous.

My Montejaque Story

I “discovered” Montejaque in August 2000, when I stumbled upon it with my wife Jeryl during our silver wedding anniversary tour of Andalucia. We liked Ronda and Montejaque and by the following year owned an apartment in Ronda.

Two years later, early retired and with little to do, I/we bought a do-er upper in Ronda. Over the next couple of years, I rewired the house, repaired a collapsed floor, fixed the roof, re-designed the kitchen and built a large private terrace at the rear.

                                                                                                   Plaza de la Constitucion, Montejaque

                                                                                                                                            (Photo: Karl Smallman)

***

We were regular visitors to our two Ronda bolt-holes, which we also rented out to tourists.

We got to know Montejaque pretty well during that time, as we were continually attracted to the village. After all, it had been a contender for our investment money back in 2000/2001.

Move forward a few years, a divorce and two unsuitable girlfriends behind me, lightning struck. On a weekend break in Ronda in September 2008, I met and fell in love with the lady who has been my wife now for some 13 years.

A German, resident in Montejaque, the Meter Maid, as I like to call her (you can work out that her name is Rita and that she is lovely!*), was living in Montejaque.

I emigrated at the end of 2008, and we lived in her house in Montejaque for nearly three years. We wed in 2010 and a year later we found the home of our dreams in the countryside just outside Ronda.

Rita kept her Montejaque house which we used as a holiday rental.

In 2020 I sold my apartment in Ronda and invested in an old village house in Montejaque, which, with a handful of local casual workers for the technical and tricky bits, I did up. This is also a rental house, which has recently been put up for sale.

                                                                                                                         For sale: Casa Real

Conclusion

Montejaque is a great village, and we love the time we have spent and do still spend there.

Our Walk on the Wildside is just one of the many great walks in the area. For more information about routes check out:

“Walking in Andalucia” by Guy Hunter-Watts [Cicero Press]

“Walking in the Ronda Mountains” by Tony Bishop and Eva Bratek [Editorial La Serrania]

© The Spanish Fly

Notes:

1. *Beatles’ song “Lovely Rita, Meter Maid” from the album Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band (1967). Listen to it here: Bing Vídeos

2. Casa Real for sale:

PROPERTIES FOR SALE - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

SE VENDE BONITA CASA DE PUEBLO (fincasaronda.com)

Photos:

Ayuntamiento de Montejaque

Karl Smallman

Paul Whitelock

Tags:

Austria, Ayuntamiento de Montejaque, Birdwatchers, Canada, Cañada Real de Los Alcorconales, Cicero Press, Editorial La Serrania, England, Eva Bratek, France, Germany, Guy Hunter-Watts, Ireland, Karl Smallman, Meter Maid, Montejaque, Netherlands, New Zealand, Pablo de Ronda, Paul Whitelock, Poland, pueblo blanco, Rita, Ronda, Scotland, Serrania de Ronda, Sierra de Grazalema, silver wedding anniversary tour, South Africa, Switzerland, Tony Bishop, USA, Wales, walkers, Walking in Andalucia, Walking in the Ronda Mountains

I’ve been to Nerja, on the coast east of Málaga, a few times. Despite being overrun with tourists and full of “guiris/expats” (immigrants from Northern Europe), I must admit I’ve always liked Nerja.

Why Nerja?

Nerja has a lot going for it: nice beaches, charming Casco Antiguo (old part), the Cuevas de Nerja (Caves), el Balcón de Europa, tasty tapas, usually included in the price of your drink*, friendly locals and proximity to one of the loveliest pueblos blancos in the whole of Málaga province, Frigiliana, just 15 minutes into the mountains (qv).

So, no wonder old friends of mine from England have been coming to Nerja for a holiday twice a year for many years. 

“Why not buy? It’d probably have worked out cheaper in the long run and you would have a capital asset,” I asked Ian and Christine.

They had an answer, but I couldn’t identify with it, me having bought and sold several properties in Spain over the last 20-odd years; four of my own and several for other people, in my role as a corredor (independent/unofficial estate agent).

Ian and Chris are one (two?) of the reasons I’ve been to Nerja a lot. They invariably invite the Meter Maid and me to join them for a few days. We can’t always, but we’ve been at least three times, and they’ve visited us also in Ronda on a couple of occasions.

Nerja 2004

It was around this time, a few years after we had bought our first Spanish property, Piso Blanco, an apartment with gardens and a shared pool in the Barrio San Francisco (qv) in Ronda, that Jeryl, the mother of my two children, Amy and Tom, and I visited Nerja for the first time.

We both felt Nerja had charm, and the edge over resorts like Lloret de Mar, Sitges, Salou, and, closer to “home”, Fuengirola, Torremolinos, Marbella and San Pedro de Alcántara.

Nerja 2024 - Monday

This time I treated my daughter Amy and grandsons Felix (7) and Jude (4) – “Hey!” - to a couple of days there. Although Amy has visited Spain often over the years, she’d never been to Nerja.

We packed the car with what we needed: a change of clothes, supplies and beach paraphernalia, and set off quite early (10-ish) and headed for Málaga, Then we took the motorway as far as Torre del Mar and after that the coast road for the last 25 kilometres to Nerja.

With a little difficulty we found our pre-booked accommodation, Casa María, checked in, parked the car and headed for Playa Burriana.

It was well past 2.30 so we headed straight to a chiringuito for some lunch. El Moreno was where we ended up and it was fine. The staff were very pleasant, and the food was pretty good, if somewhat pricier than I am used to up in the mountains. But, hey, we were on a nice beach, with lovely weather in early April. It was all good. And it got even better when Amy paid the bill!

Then it was beach time.

The boys loved it! They live in London – no beaches there – so the almost only times they get to the seaside are either when they visit us in Spain or go to see their uncle Tom, auntie Su and cousins Wilbur and Buckley, who live in Hastings, on the East Sussex coast.

Amy and I looked at each other. “They’ll sleep well tonight”, she predicted.

While Amy was preparing dinner, the boys were playing games on their “tablets”, so I nipped out for an aperitif, a beer. The first place I found was heaving with guiris (qv). Well it wasn’t yet 8 o’clock, and no self-respecting andaluz goes out that early!

Sure enough, the boys were really tired and after a salad, runny boiled egg, cheese and ham, they went to bed and sleep almost instantly.

Amy and I also took the chance to have an early night.

Nerja 2024 – Tuesday

I was awake early – call of nature. I tried to get back to sleep, but couldn’t, so I started this article, then got dressed and went in search of an early morning coffee (qv). It was 7.00 am.

I found a bar on a street corner, Las Cuatro Esquinas, where I seemed to be the only guiri. The other immigrants were probably still in bed sleeping off their resacas (hangovers) from last night. A bit harsh, maybe, but The International Club of Nerja was further along our street and it was pretty raucous with loud English shouts and laughter until late.

Back to the present, I ordered a second cortado, a chupito of Patxarán and churros (dos unidades). “Mmmm!”

My bill for two coffees, two churros and the Patxarán came to 5.40€, around 5 pounds. That is a-ma-zing!

After a break, during which I checked out the number of Indian Curry Houses in Nerja for a bet with a friend in Ronda, I returned to Casa María to see if the others were up. They were and were well into their desayuno (breakfast).

We had no coffee in the rental house, so we headed to the Balcón de Europa and plonked ourselves in the most expensive of the terraces, where we lingered for over an hour. During that time Amy and I drank two coffees each, the boys had juices and churros, or not, as Felix managed to knock over his glass of hot chocolate and Jude his pineapple juice. No matter.

Then we went to a small beach nearby, El Carabeo, which was as calm as a mill pond.

I nipped off to buy a couple of things and the wind got up. I bought a leather belt for 8 euros (my shorts were falling down) and popped into the English Bookshop, Smiffs, where I snaffled four second-hand books in excellent condition, for 8.99 euros.

By the time I got back to Amy and the boys, the sea had become a surfer’s paradise because of the winds, and sunbathers were getting dressed and leaving the beach in droves.

We left too and headed back to the house to pack and check out. We cancelled our plans to visit the Caves of Nerja and instead went to Frigiliana (qv), a quarter of an hour inland from Nerja.

We parked the car and went to a restaurant. The boys had already had some lunch, but Amy and I had not and we were starving.

We chose my favourite, El Sacristán, and settled at a table on their terrace overlooking the stunning countryside, the shimmering coast and the Mediterranean Sea. The boys played on the balcón, which is traffic-free and therefore ideal for families.

Felix wanted to buy something with the remainder of the pocket money I had given him and Jude, so we went for a walk up into the Casco Antiguo. Jude stayed with his mum.

We found some cool imanes (fridge magnets), so bought one each as presents for mum, Oma and grandad (me).

Then we found what Felix was looking for, a plastic ball with a gift inside for 1 euro. He bought two. Later we returned to the machine dispensing these trinkets; Felix bought another one and Jude three – pocket money all gone now, but they were happy!

Amy and I finally got to eat lunch at 5.00 pm! I chose lubina (sea bass) and Amy opted for pez espada (swordfish), not easy to find in London.

Then a quick play in the playground and it was back on the road for two-and-a-bit hours journey back to Ronda.

We all agreed we’d had a lovely time.

The boys went straight to bed, Amy went in the bath, and I popped out to the leaving “do” of our friend Victoria, who was going to be emigrating to Saudi Arabia on Wednesday.

***

Notes:

Free tapas in Nerja?

This a bit of a con. My tubo last evening, with tapa included, cost me 2.70€. In Ronda, where I live, I struggle to pay more than 1.50€ for the same size beer. If I order a tapa in addition, it costs 1 – 1.50€, so it’s about the same. But why, in Nerja, do they pretend the tapa is free? It’s b***ocks!

Barrio San Francisco

I wrote an article about the bars and restaurants in this popular Ronda neighbourhood back in 2008. I’ve updated it since (2023), but I see there is another new bar open on the square, and a couple have closed, so I need to do another revision soon.

Back to the "Streets of San Francisco" - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

Guiris

We all know the term guiri, or, if not, we should – it’s what the Spanish call us foreigners.  But is the term good or bad; positive or negative; affectionate or nasty? Click below to find out more.

What is a guiri? It's what the Spanish call us foreigners - but is it good or bad? (secretserrania.com)

Early morning coffee

Spanish workers, the unemployed and senior citizens love to go for a coffee (and a chupito) first thing in the morning. I have also got into the habit.  Click on the link to find out more.

Early Morning Coffee (eyeonspain.com)

Frigiliana

BIRTHDAY OUTING TO FRIGILIANA - Help me, Ronda (help-me-ronda.com)

© The Spanish Fly

Acknowledgements:

Amy Gibbs (photo of The Spanish Fly, Felix and Jude)

Paul Whitelock (all other photos except main one, courtesy of La Sexta)

Wikipedia

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Ronda, Happiest Town in Spain
Thursday, March 21, 2024
 

By The Spanish Fly

Here’s an article from news outlet Diario Ronda telling us that the Ciudad del Tajo is the happiest town in Spain, heading a list that includes other favourites of mine, such as Nerja (2^nd), Chipiona (3rd), Tarifa (4^th), Santillana del Mar (6^th), San Vicente de la Barquera (7^th), Ribadesella (9th) and Zahara de los Atunes (10^th).

The other two on the list are Peñíscola and Sanxenxo, which I have not visited. They have been added to my bucket list for later this year.

There are other great places, such as Arcos de la Frontera, Frigiliana, Montejaque, Setenil de las Bodegas and Zahara de la Sierra, but maybe the inhabitants of these villages are not HAPPY!

Here is a translation of the main points of the Diario Ronda article:

International Day of Happiness

Diario Ronda

20 March, 2024

Today, March 20, is the International Day of Happiness, as proclaimed by the United Nations General Assembly in 2013.

Every year the international ranking of the happiest countries in the world is presented, in which Spain traditionally does not fare well at all.

To help Spain improve its position in the World Happiness Index, the sugar producer Azucarera has carried out a study, together with the consultancy YouGov, in which it finds out which are the happiest villages in Spain and why. More than 1,000 inhabitants voted for the 35 happiest towns in Spain, and the result was, in this order: Ronda, Nerja, Chipiona, Tarifa, Peñíscola, Santillana del Mar, San Vicente de la Barquera, Sanxenxo, Ribadesella y Zahara de los Atunes, followed by a further 25 towns.

The study concluded that, despite their differences, in all of these localities there are specific conditions that favour the well-being of their inhabitants, including an affectionate and cordial atmosphere, a slow and calm pace, a stress-free environment, enjoyment of the outdoors, and local cuisine.

A Recipe Book

Once this study had been completed, ranking 35 towns in Spain for their happiness, Azucarera gave these places a voice through their cuisine and modus vivendi. The company has combined both their life advice and their pastry recipes, key factors in being happy, in a recipe book.

The Recetario de los Pueblos mas felices de España (Plataforma Editorial) was co-written by the expert in emotional well-being Francesc Miralles, together with the residents of the chosen towns.

The recipe book is available in all bookstores, at a price of €12 (available in e-book for €5.99). It can also be purchased by accessing the website www.recetariopueblosfelices.es.

The proceeds from sales of the book will go to the Fundacion Grandes Amigos (Great Friends Foundation), which fights against loneliness in older people.

Translation by Paul Whitelock

Note: The original Spanish version, as published by Diario Ronda, is available here: 

Ronda, Happiest Town in Spain (eyeonspain.com)

Tags:

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Five of the 10 "most beautiful" provincial capitals in Spain are located in Andalucía, including the city in first place, according to an opinion poll. 

ElectoPanel surveyed 4,000 Spaniards to find out which capital they find the most beautiful.

The crown jewel is Sevilla, which took first place with 14.4% of the votes. People were impressed by the mix of Moorish and Gothic architecture, as well as the cultural and gastronomic history of the city. 

Granada, with the emblematic Alhambra, the winding streets of the Albaicín and the breathtaking views of the Sierra Nevada, received 13.9% of the vote, securing second place.

With 4.5% of the vote, Cádiz came in sixth, closely followed by Córdoba in seventh place. 

And Málaga came in ninth place with 3.6% of the vote.                    Plaza de España, Sevilla

Translated from the original German by Paul Whitelock
 

Acknowledgements:

Isa Ibáñez

Paul Whitelock

The Olive Press (German version)

***

Here is the original German version:

WUNDERSCHÖN

By Elsa Ibáñez

elsaibanez.ferrer@bdp-team.de

den 31. Januar, 2024

Fünf der 10 “schönsten” Provinzhauptstädte Spaniens liegen in Andalusien, darunter der erste Platz. 

ElectoPanel hat 4.000 Spanier befragt, um herauszufinden, wo sie die schönsten Orte des Landes sehen.

Das Kronjuwel ist Sevilla, das mit 14,4 % der Stimmen von Menschen, die von der Mischung aus maurischer und gotischer Architektur sowie von der kulturellen und gastronomischen Geschichte beeindruckt sind, den ersten Platz belegte. 

Granada mit der symbolträchtigen Alhambra, den verwinkelten Gassen des Albaicin und der atemberaubenden Aussicht auf die Sierra Nevada erhielt 13,9 % der Stimmen und sicherte sich damit den zweiten Platz. Mit 4,5 % der Stimmen kam Cádiz auf den sechsten Platz, dicht gefolgt von Córdoba auf dem siebten Platz. 

                                                                                                         Cádiz

Und Málaga kam mit 3,6 % der Stimmen auf den neunten Platz.

Tags:

Albaicín, Alhambra, Andalucia, Andalusien, Cádiz, Córdoba, crown jewel, cultural history, ElectoPanel,  Elsa Ibañez, gastronomic history, gastronomische Geschichte, Gothic Architektur, gotische Architektur,  Granada, Kronjuwel, kulturelle Geschichte, Málaga, maurische Architektur, Moorish architecture, Paul Whitelock, provincial capitals, Provinzhauptstädte, Sevilla, Sierra Nevada

Last week we treated ourselves to a couple of days on the coast near Malaga City.

We were going to the February get-together of the Costa Press Club, of which I am a member, so we thought we'd make a mini-break out of it.

Tuesday

On Tuesday late morning we set off by car from Ronda to Malaga. We were headed for Torremolinos, the eastern, relatively undeveloped end. No high rise hotels full of trashy foreign tourists, great sandy beaches and a huge choice of good value chiringuitos.

In actual fact there wasn't a huge choice in mid-February, as many were closed for their winter break or were undergoing repairs and renovations.

No matter, one of our favourites, Restaurante Familiar, was open. We found a table on the back terrace facing the sea. The sun was shining brightly from a bright blue sky. 

Since we were going for a gourmet meal that evening, we opted for a big house salad, a fritura malagueña and papas a lo pobre to share - it was plenty.

After a chat with a German family at the next table we drove into Malaga to our pre-booked hotel. Mr Google Maps took us straight there, to the two-star Hotel Goartin. It was basic, clean and well-priced at 59€, with an extra 9€ for a car parking space for 24 hours. We felt that was outstanding value.

After checking in and unpacking we walked to the Puerto de Malaga, where they've recently done a Liverpool, a Bristol, a Salford, by turning part of a scruffy industrial port into a recreational area with bars, restaurants, shops and a market. There's also an art gallery, the Pompidou Centre, an offshoot of the famous gallery in Paris.

We sat on the terrace in the first hostelry, opposite a three-masted, wooden sailing ship flying a Danish flag and registered in Copenhagen.

Then it was back to the hotel to get washed and togged up for dinner with other members of the Costa Press Club at the Restaurante La Alvaroteca just across the road. You can read about that event here: ImPRESSive! (eyeonspain.com)

Wednesday

After a sound night's sleep, I popped to a nearby cafe, El Parque, for an early morning coffee and a read. When I got back, Rita was already up and making herself beautiful. We checked out, got the car and drove to the port again for breakfast at a branch of one of our favourite cafes, Granier. 

First of all, we popped back into the casco antiguo. Rita had her eyes on a pair of shoes. On the way back we came across a demo, one of the series of farmers' protests taking place currently throughout Europe. It was all very genial and orderly, although they were blocking the main road.

After a huge and tasty desayuno we browsed the market stalls for a while before going to the afore-mentioned Pompidou Centre to take in the temporary exhibition. With proof of our pensioner status we got in for half price, just 2.50€ each! We were glad it was cheap, as the exhibition was somewhat disappointing.

Back to the Beach

By now it was late afternoon, so we drove to Guadalmar, near the airport.

We've been there a few times. There's a delightful little bay with a great chiringuito, Mari Gutierrez. We sat at a table in the sun and enjoyed a great ensalada de la casa and "tanked" a bit of winter sun.

As we were down on the coast we popped into IKEA to check out a wardrobe we'd seen there before Christmas. It had been reduced by 20€ plus there was a further 10% off for IKEA Family cardholders, which we are. So, a veritable bargain.

Then it was back home to Ronda and the relative cold of the mountains.

We'd enjoyed our Away Days: great food, a bit of culture, meeting friends at the CPC, sunshine .....

© The Spanish Fly

Acknowledgements:

All photographs by The Spanish Fly

Tags:

Alvaroteca, Away Days, Costa Press Club, CPC, Granier, Guadalmar, Hotel Goartin, IKEA, IKEA Family, Malaga, Pompidou Centre, Puerto de Malaga, Spanish Fly, Torremolinos,