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A Foot in Two Campos

Thoughts from a brand new home-owner in the Axarquía region of Málaga. I hope there might be some information and experiences of use to other new purchasers, plus the occasional line to provoke thought or discussion.

144 - Painting the Town ...
Wednesday, May 20, 2015

In three corners of my life this month a blank canvas turned to life, colour and a floor covered with rice.

“La Noche en Blanco” turns Málaga city into that blank canvas.  A night of culture, music, free entry to the museums, concerts in the streets, hundreds of events to choose from between 8pm and 2am and still later into the small hours.  Often mis-translated byextranjeros (even including eminent bloggers!) as “the White Night” it is something more subtle and hard to translate.  To vote “en blanco” is an option in many countries (for example in Bolivia “voto en blanco” is printed on voting slips.  In Spain, where voting is done by choosing a slip of paper printed by one of the political parties into the voting envelope, a “voto en blanco” campaign encourages voters to put a blank slip in the envelope as a clear protest vote, and the number of these received is published.

144-cathedralpianoAnd “La Noche en Blanco” is that blank sheet.  The city provides the canvas and the people cover it with events, artistic, professional, amateur, sometimes incomprehensible, always worth watching. The piano outside the Bishop’s Palace, classical music outside the cathedral, queues outside all the museums, street performers entertaining the crowds, a jazz concert in the social-work college, a big stage in Plaza de la Constitución, random events in random corners, a rowing boat at the bottom of Calle Larios, and beautifully-lit jellyfish hanging above.

144-jellyfishAnd it’s the crowds that make it.  I love to see huge queues outside Museo Carmen-Thyssen, the new Pompidou Centre, the Picasso Museum etc.  Best of all, by the following day, thousands more people have been introduced to the beauty of our city’s art treasures free of charge, groups of friends, families with buggies, pensioners.

The same morning, just across the dry riverbed, it was the day for distribution of groceries at Los Ángeles Malagueños de La Noche.  It was blazingly hot.  People had queued early for numbered tickets but then didn’t quite dare go far from the hot plaza beside the Ibis Hotel for fear of losing their place.  The concrete square was swept, those waiting were edged back away from the Los Ángeles portakabins, long rows of tables were set up, and the stage was set.

144-losangelesAs we unpacked biscuits and bags of rice, the empty cardboard boxes were commandeered by people in the queue to fill with their treasures.  Thirty volunteers lined up to give out basic dried goods, fruit, vegetables, bread, juice, shampoo etc.  I was promoted to giving out bread, which was a mark of confidence from the supervisors, as one needs to be a bit firm, with everyone asking for either “pan integral” or soft rolls for children, or something else we didn’t have.

Every shift I do produces the same mixed emotions.  I’ve just passed the six-month mark, but haven’t completely settled with the clash between pride and relief that the organisation exists, and regret and shame that it has to exist.

There’s no ignoring the inequalities in society.  The delight on the faces of the people in the queue as we carefully place pasta, jam, biscuits and cartons of milk in their trolleys, makes me happy and sad simultaneously.   A few days before at the Colmenar art day 70144-miguelpainters, professional and amateur, descended on the village and complete a painting in a seven hours.  My favourite painter, Miguel Linares, competed again but I love his style so much that as he put the final touches to the oil painting of a Colmenar alleyway, we negotiated a price and I carried it home with the same care and delight with which the homeless Malagueños had carried their cardboard boxes of rice and shampoo.  Things most of us don’t have to think about buying.  Yes, I think twice before buying a luxury such as a piece of art, but I don’t bat an eyelid before putting pasta, honey, butter or skin-cream in my shopping bag.  That’s the inequality.

144-pianoAnd the sounds of La Noche en Blanco drifted over the river to the Los Ángeles portakabins.  As the evening volunteers hand out sandwiches and coffee, some of the people in the queue lift their heads to listen to the music and the laughter on the other side.  Across the dry river, Málaga was painting the town red with free culture for everyone.  Or almost everyone.

 

©  Tamara  Essex  2015                                        http://www.twocampos.com

 

THIS WEEK’S LANGUAGE POINT:

We’re still doing the subjunctive.  Like Rome, it wasn’t built in a day.  Our profe says it is impossible to argue or to love without the subjunctive, and doubly impossible to argue with someone you love without the shades and subtleties that the subjunctive makes available to us.  So we’re concentrating on the verbs where the rules are not clear-cut, where you have choices.

“Me parece” is one of them.  “Me parece que …” is an opinion and is therefore stated as fact, so takes the indicative verb (ie normal).  Me parece que no va a llover.  It seems to me it is not going to rain.  But adding a sentiment to the sentence, ie how you feel about it not raining, triggers the subjunctive.  Me parece bien que no vaya a llover.

And even “decir”, which we think is nice and straightforward, well that changes too, depending on whether the person speaking is giving information (which takes the normal, indicative verb) or seeking to influence (which takes the subjunctive).  “Me dice que hace calor allí y me dice que no olvide el pasaporte”.  Telling me it is hot there is information, so takes the indicative verb, but reminding me to take my passport is advice or influence, so“olvide” is the subjunctive form.

And now I need to write 20 sentences to remind myself of that!



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143 - How the Other Half Lives
Thursday, May 7, 2015

 

This massive great cruise ship was in Málaga port last week.  It is either beautiful or ugly, I’m not sure which.  But it is big.  Umpteen floors, 6,500 passengers, 2,500 crew.   It’s the143-shipsister ship of the one that came in a couple of weeks ago, the one that people live on all year round.  Both times, people flocked to the port to gaze at the ship, marvelling at its sheer size, and marvelling at the idea of living full-time on a ship.  Gazing with mixed emotions, of which envy was certainly one.  “How the other half lives” was a comment that was scattered across the English-language press here, and on internet forums.  Not only the extranjeros of course – I listened in on the comments and joined in some of the conversations of the Spanish people lining the port.  “¡Mira!”  “¡Imagínate!”

“The other half”.  The rich half.  But that’s not right, is it?  That ISN’T “the other half”.  That’s the half that we are in.  You and I.  For every really wealthy person we read about or see on television or emerging from a £10,000-a-night hotel, there are hundreds of thousands who look at our own lifestyles with the same envy, awe, longing, or desperation.  If we are going to talk about “the other half” with any accuracy, we must first recognise that we sit solidly and without exception in the wealthy half.  We’re lucky, mostly because of where we happen to have been born.  To the majority of the world, WE are “the other half”, the rich half.

1.4 billion people in our world live on less than $1.25 a day.  That’s 83p or 1.12€.  It’s impossible to imagine 1.4 billion people.  So let’s imagine one of them.  Someone walking miles to a water point in blazing temperatures.  Someone lying in a cardboard shack unable to swat away the malaria-carrying mosquitos.  Someone camping beside the fence143-EWN-borderpicon the Moroccan side of the Melilla fence for up to two years waiting for a chance to improve their chances on European soil.  Someone queuing at a food-bank or soup kitchen in an otherwise wealthy country.  Just picture one person, and mentally invite them into your home.  A comfy, warm, centrally-heated English cottage.  A flat in London, Paris, Rome, or Madrid.  A Spanish villa, or an apartment with lawns and a pool.  Imagine you are looking into their face right now, as they look at what you have all around you.  And know which half you are in.

805 million people do not have enough to eat.  That’s too many to imagine, too.  They are the other half.  Our fellow human beings, starving.

22,000 children die every day because of poverty.  The numbers I am quoting are getting smaller but are still impossible to imagine.  But you can picture one mother cradling one tiny famished body.  That’s unimaginable too, fortunately.  Because we are lucky.  We have food, we have more than 83p or 1.12€ a day, and we are the rich half.

1,700 refugees have drowned so far in 2015.  Three weeks ago 400 refugees drowned in the Mediterranean.  Now the numbers begin to look more like individuals.  Real people.  People with families, achievements, sorrows, gardens, art on the wall, cookery books in the kitchen, a child’s drawing stuck to the fridge.  People who wanted the best for their children.  But their ship wasn’t a cruise liner, they didn’t get to dock in Málaga or anywhere else, and they drowned in the Med.

A good friend of mine is one of those refugees that many newspapers berate.  We go to Málaga’s art galleries together, we search the city for really good coffee, and we sometimes go on drives to explore the area.  We use my car, because he hasn’t got a car here.  Or anything really.  Except for a shared room in a refugee hostel, government-funded Spanish lessons at the same language school as me, and a paltry bit of “pocket money”.  Oh and a crushed photo of his lovely young wife and his beautiful little girl.  They are why he is here.  His wife sends me sweet messages thanking me for being her husband’s friend, as though it’s some kind of favour.  He’s my friend because he’s my friend – we get on well, we share a passion for justice, and I enjoy his company.  We go to art galleries because, contrary to what the Daily Mail might pretend, he is a rounded, cultured, professional man, and arguing with him in Spanish about the elusive meaning of a painting is interesting and fun.

His daughter is pretty.  In my view, no little girl should believe that it is normal to have soldiers in the street outside her house all the time, and no little girl should fall asleep to gunfire every night.  No little girl should ever learn that it’s dangerous to stand up for what you believe in, and that to do so can mean that you live in fear and uncertainty, and that your family is split up.  I HATE that what is happening in the world now is teaching my friend’s daughter that her father’s morals and courage mean that he has to flee to another country, far away from her, because in his country it is too dangerous to stand up to oppression.

I had a drink with another friend and his little girl this week.  I wrote about G once before, how he was a political prisoner in San Salvador in the 1980s (103 – The Kindness of Strangers).  He has the kind of criminal record many of us would be proud to have.  As a mere teenager he put his head above the parapet and stood up against government dictatorship, and put his life at risk, forcing him later to flee his home country as a political refugee after imprisonment.  Recently he has been informed that his country’s government has offered an amnesty, and is willing to offer him a “pardon”.  My instant reaction, while getting another peach juice for his daughter, was “no!”  – to me, his criminal record speaks of his courage and his humanity.  He laughed.  Obviously he thinks the same.  “And when she grows up,” I said, “she will be so proud of your history and your fight against oppression.”  “I hope so,” he said, his eyes softening as the 6-year old smiled a toothy grin and interrupted to tell me that Ratoncito Pérez had brought her 5€ for her last tooth.  She is lucky, she was born here in Spain, and will learn about her father’s courage as a “story” from his distant past.

Meanwhile the other little girl, in Palestine, listens to the sound of gunfire from her bed, and looks out of her window some mornings to see dead bodies in the street.  100 yards away,143-palestinenext to one of the new Israeli settlements, border fighting is the norm.  Inside her house her mum tries to keep life as normal as possible, and texts me her gratitude that I am friends with her husband.  I just hope, as he does, that his little girl will be here in Málaga in time for Ratoncito Pérez to put 5€ under her pillow when she loses her baby teeth.

143-shippierWe paid for our drinks, and walked along to the end of the port to gaze at “The Allure of the Seas”.   Huge.  A boat full of people who are not fleeing danger, persecution, and oppression.  Behind me, a group of Welsh ladies squealed in envy – “Look at it, Megan!  How the other half lives!”   They were carrying bags from the shops along Muelle Uno.  Without doubt, they are in our half.  The lucky half.

©  Tamara  Essex  2015                                        http://www.twocampos.com

 

THIS WEEK’S LANGUAGE POINT:

The more you learn, the more you learn what you don’t know.  So true!  I thought I’d cracked the subjunctive.  With all the over-confidence of someone whose B1 diploma has finally arrived in the post.  But now at the Escuela Oficial de Idiomas, we are learning the final category of “when to use the subjunctive” – the one that is defined by “sentiment”.   And it is highly subjective!   Or subjectively subjunctive.  Or something.

Mostly I’ve got it.  (1) cuando in the future;  (2) wishes or desires;  (3) possibilities.   And now (4) sentiments.  So verbs which usually take a normal tense (the indicative), go into the subjunctive mood when the sentiment is emotional.

SENTIR – “Siento que hace frio” – i feel that it is cold, or I feel cold.  There is no sentiment in this phrase.  “Siento que haya muerto tu amigo” – I’m sorry that your friend has died.  The sentiment or sorrow in this phrase triggers the subjunctive.

COMPRENDER – “Comprendo que hay mucho trafico” – I understand there is a lot of traffic.  Just a fact, no sentiment.  “Comprendo que tengas problemas este mes” – I understand that you are having problems this month.  Subjunctive, because it is expressing sentiment.

So there’s another spanner in the subjunctive!   Not a clear-cut rule or a nice list of verbs that can be learned.  More a judgement, that the feeling in a phrase means you should choose the subjunctive mood.

 



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