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Spanish Steps from Sussex to the Sierras

Many years of thinking and now a year of doing............the diary of our move to Spain...............................

The best laid plans of mice and men
Saturday, March 30, 2013 @ 5:53 PM

 Home and thinking about the Future

 

So here we are now back in the UK, full of hopes, fears and a little confused.  We know that Spain is where we want to be, where in Spain is another subject. We started this journey with a plan, large house, lots of land, up in a mountain, goats, horses etc etc.  Sitting at home in the UK that looked like the ideal life for us, everything we had always wanted, self suffiency plus the potential to have some rental income to top up my pension. The original idea changed as the trip progressed.

This trip to Spain enabled us to meet ex pats already living in Spain.  Some fell  into the category of those who had something to gain from us moving to Spain and others  fell into the category of future friends.  I will briefly cover the former.  If I heard the phrase  don't worry, its Spain once, I  heard it hundreds of times, especially from the agents.  It is clear to me that the " turn a blind eye" culture is alive and well in certain quarters, which actually worried me more.  We were told that we were under no pressure to buy, really, your telling me, I never had any intentions on buying a house on this trip, we had told everyone we contacted prior to our visit that this was the case, I can only assume that some prospective buyers do change their  minds once they are in Spain.  It was amazing as to how many properties would not be their in a few weeks, and did you  know you can put a 3K deposit down and move when you wanted.  Plus buy to lets are a great investment at the moment.  Needless to say most if not all are still for sale with a lot more added to the lists since we arrived home, and I am still not sure about the buy to let investments after all and 11% return on investment, I would have thought they most people would be biting the agents hands off.   Having said all that some of the agents were informative without any pressures and answered our questions with knowledge and experience.  Moving swiftly on we also met folks who I know we would love to meet again and would easily become friends.


We had one day out of researching areas, and we spent that day in Cordoba, near to where we were staying with Alan and Lorna and the Alpaca farms.  Their house is in what can only be described as an idyllic situation, 20 minutes down a track, up and down, round and round, amazing views and surrounded by olive groves and a pretty babbling river flowing through.  Although if you read Lorna's blog  from a few months ago, you will know that the pretty babbling river turned into a torrent of flood water complete with a run away car.


Lornas Blog

olive groves

 

 

views of Alpaca's and Olive groves

 

Cordoba was lovely, although the highways into the city made you realise that this is not just a little historical town but a major city, living and breathing. We managed to park and walked to the old quarter.  How pretty is this, lovely cobbled streets, old buildings,leaning into each other covered in the early signs of the up and coming patio festival, which must be an amazing sight when in full bloom. Orange trees in full fruit, ripe for picking except don't they are very bitter and husband found out. The Cathedral was just beautiful and we spent a long time in here, truly amazing. Lunch was had in a little restaurant up one of the side streets,  We shared a salad to start and then Spanish Omelet and Calamaris it was all very yummy. The afternoon was a gentle stroll looking at what else was on offer, the amazing Roman bridge for one.



The Start of the Patio Festival

Smiling before the first bite

 


After Alan and Lorna's we traveled to Alcala Real, stayed at a lovely B&B run by a young couple a real family home.

Sunny Spain

The view from the window was amazing, the castle in the distance. We woke up the following morning to 3 inches of snow. This actually enhanced the view even more, however it did nothing for my nerves re driving, the B&B in Alcala Real, is at the top of the town and we were heading down to move to our next stop Valor in the Alpujarras. Snow was not on the agenda however, after a gut wrenching drive we managed to get to the main roads safe and well and headed for out next destination.



The weather over the 3 hour drive was mixed, snow, hail sunshine and more snow.  As we eventually arrived in the region, the climb up and around the mountains began. The roads were amazingly well looked after, we did come across several rock falls, but these appeared to be well cordoned off and managed.  The views were amazing, as we travelled up and down the weather changed, lots of snow, not so much snow no snow.  As we travelled the signs for all the Alpujarras villages came and went, and they brought alive for me the book I had recently read, The Hand of Fatima, a lovely story about a boy and his life in the 15th century. Eventually we arrived at Valor, and met our next hosts. We were shown to our accommodation, which was a lovely little house, typical of the Alpujarras. However the arrival was marred by the Hosts. Remember it was freezing, we were offered a tiny little heater which apparently we could use for an hour or two, it would have just about heated a mouses toe.



 However that was not what upset me the most.  Having offered us the minuscule heater, they asked if we were there to look at houses, yes we said, well that was a big mistake.  We then received what I think they thought was constructive advice, which actually came across as offensive and actually plain bloody stupid., and while sharing the knowledge with us became actually aggressive.  I will select some of the phrase that stuck with us.

Don't buy a house in the country, the police will make you work the land - Not much fun when you are retired and they make you work.

The shops don't open in the afternoon, so you cannot buy milk

I don't drive..........and I never use the buses.

If the house you buy is  too close to the road the police will knock it down

Know I know that everyone has different experiences of their lives and I know that if you buy  property with agricultural use then yes that's what you have to do, But I have yet to hear of British OAP's being picked up on a Saturday and being made to work in a chain gang. Maybe I was being sensitive but I was really angry, I was paying money to stay in the house, I did not ask and pay for advice from someone who had not even asked my name.

That night I text someone who I had been in contact with before our arrival for a recommendation for a hotel. However one of the best things that happened on this trip was that they invited us to stay. So after our house hunting day around the Alpurujjas we arrived at the house.  I cannot express in words how welcoming they were.   We had a  fabulous dinner, several drinks and some amazing star gazing. We awoke the next morning, rested, warm and happy,  this was our last day in Spain and what a way to end.  This couple were living the life of  our dream, a lovely home, not fancy as in huge rooms or marble bathrooms, but comfortable and Spanish,  land ,not acres and acres, but enough to grow vegetables etc, lovely views but close to a sweet village that was  full of Spanish life .They were  rich in spirit and giving and we found new friends.  They gave us advice in a calm and measured manner a great deal of which we took on board, including some that we may not have wanted to hear, but enabled us to re consider our ideas.

So back to the beginning, here we are back in the UK.  We have made changes to our plans. No longer do we want a top up income, we would rather have the money in the bank, a smaller house with land but a smaller than originally thought. No horses, but definitely dogs, two, Spanish Mastiffs, maybe a goat, but heating is a must as in a priority.


We are not bothered that we have changed our ideas, that's the whole point of visiting Spain, what works on paper here in the UK is not necessarily going to work in reality.  Always remember, YOU have the power to change your life because YOU have the power to change your mind


We have another region to visit, we are going to Extremadura in August, as this is an area that  I have always had a yearning for and it is an itch that I have to scratch. 

So I leave you for the moment with a selection of photo's from our trip

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



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13 Comments


eggcup said:
Sunday, March 31, 2013 @ 6:18 PM

Hi Mountain Lass. I enjoyed the story. Extremadura is a good idea. I've been there a few times in August and we've stayed in a rural complex called 'El Solitario.' You might want to look it up. You sleep in 'chozos,' which are round traditional goatherds' buildings and there is a restaurant and pool on site and a lovely little spa town, just a walk away. There's not much going on,and the accommodation is basic, but we found it very relaxing. It's very Spanish - I don't know what Spanish you've got, but I think the daughter of the owner speaks English. They are lovely people there. Anyway. Just thought I'd give you the tip. I'm not working on commission. My husband and I would love to go there again, but the kids are refusing... All the best.


Mountain Lass said:
Saturday, April 6, 2013 @ 6:35 AM

Thanks EC. My Spanish is beginners to middling but improving every week with lessons, so not afraid of trying to communicate. I will look that up.

ML


Wendy said:
Saturday, April 6, 2013 @ 8:27 AM

Lovely story and very typical of the expat community. To put your mind at rest, we have over 7 acres of olives which we did nothing with for the 4 years it took us to renovate our home. Nobody cares and certainly the police do not get involved - never heard such rubbish. We were eventually approached by a local Spanish man who asked if he could work our olives for us. We made a handshake agreement that he would provide us with all the wood we needed in the winter to keep our woodburner going which is probably worth about 600 euros. He also provides 15 litres of high quality olive oil. It keeps the land looking nice and he is getting a good crop after a couple of years of TLC. We did have a go one year when we first moved here, however, it was too much hard work for not enough return. We turned the original stone built cottage part of our home into holiday accommodation, got it registered for tourism and it supplements our private pensions and gives us a good income. The best bit is we only have couples and our guests have always become good friends during their stay. As the cottage forms part of our home, we do not have to go far to do the changeover and it has worked really well.
We thankfully had an agent who told us it was cold in winter and to be careful if we wanted to live year round in a place that it actually got winter sun.
Many things have changed in the 9 years we have lived here, mostly improved.
For early retirement, Spain is hard to beat and do not be put off running holiday accommodation - just make sure you attract 'your sort of person' ;-))
Wendy


Jane said:
Saturday, April 6, 2013 @ 9:16 AM

Hi
Loved reading about your experience. I've spent a few years in both Cataluyna and Aragon where many town are becoming like the United Nations and austerity has hit hard, and local agents are STILL selling a pipe dream. I've listened incredulously whilst they roll out the 'several interested people' 'won't be available for long' monologue, when I know full well these properties have been on the market years!

On ex pat forums, when researching idea's of 'where to be' and opportunities, I'm met with negativity to the point of rudeness, from what I presume to be rather grumpy disillusioned men.

I'm a mature (ish) female, with my feet firmly on the ground, and have my 'sensible' head on. I'd advise you to brush up on your Spanish, maybe do a foundation TEFL course, and whilst the rural/land/peace/views are inviting, make sure you can easily reach a buzzy village/town as sometimes your own company can get a bit tedious after a while once the novelty wears off.

Dogs are a prerequisite I think, so, so many at any local dog shelter. I've worked at one, and rescued a dog too from there too. Best thing I ever did.

I'm not sure 'where' to 'be' when I go back either so your blog has been really insightful.

Any advice or suggestions from anyone would be welcome.







rob said:
Saturday, April 6, 2013 @ 11:36 AM

I think there could be big problems in Spain if the Banks collapse Civil unrest and so on
Higher taxes and withdrawal of Health care unless you go private

I would advise not investing in Spain or moving to Spain unless you just rent/until things settle down

that would be my advise


Galiciavac said:
Saturday, April 6, 2013 @ 12:06 PM

Hi Mountain Lass,
Like you, my wife and I have done a bit of exploring around Spain. Initially this was all around Andalucia, where we in fact lived in the Malaga area for many years.
The coastal area in our early years was still very recognisable as part of Spain with unspoilt beaches and charming people. Unfortunately, as I read either on your blog or from a commentator, it did start to feel like the United Nations. And the construction industry not only altered the coastline irrevocably but altered the character of the people with greed becoming so apparent.
The interior of the province remained much more traditional especially if one avoided the bigger towns. The people were delightful but the living probably was too much of a change to be acceptable for one not born to it - primitive and lacking in the amenities which we are accustomed to and cannot give up as we age.
We therefore explored further and found Extremadura to be very attractive in parts. The best cherries in Spain grow here and the orchards are so beautiful in Spring with their blossom. The name Extremadura was not give lightly and it is a land of extremes - initially in the nature of its terrain and now in the mix of the beauty of countryside and the uglyness of industry.
And so over the course of the years we continued to look for what we would consider the ideal Spain.
The Northern Cantabrian coast is really beautiful and the countryside outstanding but the winters - too cold by far! But a little to the south and west in Galicia, we eventually found our Utopia. After a week spent in the winter on the border of Galicia and the Asturias at the interesting town of Ribadeo with its wonderful views both inland up the Ria and out to sea, we decided to give up having to thaw out the car's locks and scrape of the frost from the windscreen. We headed off towards Lugo, which we had visited before and which certainly merits a few days sightseeing, but bypassed it in the direction of Santiago de Compostela (beautiful city) and then on to the coast and the Rias Baixas. It was snow on the roads all the way until 10 km from the coast - scary for a driver used to the Costa del Sol!
We spent the rest of the winter in the little fishing port of Porto do Son and got to know the people - the most helpful, charming, friendly folk of all we had encountered in our years in Spain - and the countryside both coastal and inland. I could go on for ever about the attractions of the place but by now I am far too biased in its favour as we moved up to live there the following year. That was 6 years ago and never a regret since.
So Mountain Lass, never be discouraged by changes to your plans. The thing is to have a Goal but make up your plans as you go along. Everything is an experience and even your bad times will have everybody laughing later on. Keep looking at Spain - it is so very beautiful where it has not been spoiled by too much of a foreign invasion. You will find what you want somewhere and when you do decide to look at Galicia, contact us and we will try to give you whatever help you may want to see if this is the place for you.
We incidentally do let out a holiday cottage and you can see the details on our website, but also there are many photos of some of the interesting places around us.
Cheers from Galicia


Mountain Lass said:
Saturday, April 6, 2013 @ 2:33 PM

Many thanks Galiciavac - I think Galicia looks amazing, but other half says it has too much rain too much!!!!!!!! Maybe you could dismiss that theory LOL.

rob

I appreciate the sentiment but to be honest, i might just as easily get run over tomorrow
ML


pete said:
Saturday, April 6, 2013 @ 5:50 PM

The burocracy is Spains worse enemy.
they allow illegal builds then issue fines.
mine was completly built had no idea it was illegal
26% Unemployed I dont think the burocracy realy know how to solve the problem
Sorry I bought in Spain to live there (8 years)
now have a 3 bed 3 bath villa with pool cannot sell it
financhely broke now. because of illegal build & Spain short sightness to solve the illegal build problem


Dave and Mo said:
Saturday, April 6, 2013 @ 6:58 PM

We have lived in the Huelva Province for ten years and have loved our time here very much. We have made many Spanish friends and are regarded as part of the family for several local Spanish families.
The negative experiences we have read about in this blog are not typical certainly not of this area of Spain. They do reflect the stories and experiences of people who are most likely not able to blend in with the local people and the stories or fables that are generated by mis information and exaggeration which should be ignored.
It is necessary to find out all you can about an area and to understand how you can fit in to every day living with enjoyment and to fulfil your ambition or dreams for new adventures in a new country. Do not be put off but be well informed.
We find that the Huelva Province is mostly overlooked by most WEB sites but it does have many attractive features and is really Spanish in its way of life, traditions, language and very friendly people who take you to their hearts. We find they will do almost anything for you. See Facebook Huelva Spain for some pictures of some of the activities that occur throughout the year.
You will find details of our property on there and see that we are selling but this is not to say we do not like living here it is only because we have family reasons to be back with our daughter and family in the UK. We have run holiday lets from our property and found it very rewarding in terms of the people me met and to see the enjoyment they have from exploring this area with its 'Coast of Light' , Donana, Aracena and the caves, RIO Tinto and many heritage wildlife and natural areas.
When you stop and consider what you are going to do you are doing the right thing. Our agent found this place for us and sent us back to UK saying 'Don't commit or sign for anything unless you are really sure you know you want to buy this place'. We appreciated that and when back in UK decided that this was the area we wanted to live in and this was the property that we wanted to buy and through our very professional and caring agent we completed the move to our complete satisfaction. We have never regretted it.
We hope you will be successful in your quest for adventure in Spain and enjoy it as much as we have.





galiciavac said:
Sunday, April 7, 2013 @ 4:44 PM

Hi Rob and ML
It is a popular misconception that Galicia has too much rain. That used to be true several years ago, but changes to climatic conditions have produced a climate especially in the south of A Coruña and Pontevedra provinces that is much drier than before. Compared to the UK, it is a great deal more pleasant - weather-wise.
We were warned about how terrible it was when we were debating a possible move here and that is why we decided to spend some winter months up here before committing ourselves. We were in a small house in the town itself and with nothing to do, we went out - every day - for walks and drives in the car. Of course it rained but I honestly can't say our plans were ever frustrated. The north of A Coruña is very different and inland from us as well once over the ridge of hills separating the coastal zone from the interior. So essentially, we have a pleasant micro-climate.
It's as I suggested in my earlier post, that you have to look around till you find what you like yourself, not rely upon other peoples conceptions. I mean did the idea that Galicia was so wet come from people who had lived there. I remember the Costa del Sol was full of "experts" who had no experience in their particular expertise!!!
Dave and Mo in their post above seem to have similar ideas and I agree with them about the stories and fables of mis-information and exaggeration. As they say "Be well informed". That does mean a lot of travel and looking around, but perseverance to your dream and goal will reward you ultimately.
Anyway, good luck to you both in your search and Mountain Lass - you just be careful crossing the road!


galiciavac said:
Sunday, April 7, 2013 @ 4:48 PM

Sorry, I misread the original reply. That last post was meant just for you Mountain Lass and not for Rob as well. Apologies to you both!



Rob said:
Sunday, April 7, 2013 @ 11:03 PM

I must say I really cannot understand anyone who has lived recently in Spain talking dismissively about peoples bad experiences where their properties have been declared illegal and so on as fables and misinformation
I have lived in Almeria since 2002 friends have lost money in the Almanzora valley/in Vera a Uk couple had their house demolished
won compensation in the courts still not paid /most non retirement families returnrd to the Uk no work/and difficult to claim Spanish benefits /
a relative lost 50K UKP in a dispute with a builder

Spain is a great country if you do not need to earn money here and you can afford to rebuild your life elsewhere if things go wrong /Unemployment is up to 60% for school leavers /many from this region have gone to Germany or the UK to find work
There are a few UK people still Electicians /Gas fitters sun blind fitters
The people moving to Spain at the moment are retired who have planned to live here for a long time /they have money behind them and move to an area they know well through visits over the years or by renting
for instance although very hot in summer Almeria is quite cold in the Winter /Houses are not built to keep the heat /i cannot tell you how many people i have come across who buy here and find this a surprise
The Spanish are very friendly it is east to have drinks with them and swear eternal friendship/as it is with the Turks

I lived in the USA Boston MA New York and South Carolina
/I love the Southern Drawl spoken by a Southern Belle /
I Lived in Umbria Italy Jakarta Indonesia and Tenerife Malaga and since 2002 Almeria

If you buy now in Spain be prepared you may not be able to sell very easily so if Spain moves out of the Euro your property will be devalued
if you invest money in a Spanish Bank be prepared to make a contribution if the Bank fails so keep your money in the UK where they Bail out the Banks and only move to Spain what you need

Rent first understand the area make some friends Spanish and UK before putting your money into Spain
otherwise risk loosing your money

The property we own is 100% legal Tax and local authority fees are going up /the reporting of overseas assets is a concern but we can move from Spain elsewhere if things go wrong /shut up the House till ok to come back

perhaps you should look at Almeria






Louise said:
Saturday, May 11, 2013 @ 4:20 PM

I loved reading your blog. We have just bought in Villanueva del Trabuco which is a tradditional Spanish Town of about 5000 with around 10% expats of various nationalities. We have been there at all times of the year (had 3 inches of snow in Feb!) and it gets cold in the winter and very hot in the summer but we love it and have already made lots of friends. We bought a house with fires and central heating so we know we can keep warm in the winter. I believe its in what they call the Axarquia region. Very pretty lots of rural properties but not too far from civilisation. Good luck with your search, can't wait to see where you decide on! :)


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