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"Dragon's Teeth" on Spanish Roads: What You Need to Know
Saturday, September 6, 2025

A new road marking, unofficially dubbed "dragon's teeth" (dientes de león), is appearing on Spanish roads and drivers should take note. These white triangles, painted along the edge of the lane, are a visual cue designed to slow down traffic and could result in a €200 fine for those who ignore them.

What Are They and What Do They Do?

The triangles, officially classified as M-8.1 markings, are spaced about 1.5 meters apart and typically cover the 30 meters leading up to a built-up area. Their purpose is to create an optical illusion, making the road appear narrower than it is. This subconscious effect prompts drivers to reduce their speed without the need for physical speed bumps or rumble strips. The Dirección General de Tráfico (DGT) states that the goal is to reduce accidents in areas where fast-moving traffic meets vulnerable road users, such as pedestrians and cyclists.

Where You Will See Them

These markings are being implemented at the entry points of towns and villages, as well as near schools, hospitals, residential streets, and crossings—in essence, any location where drivers need to transition from open-road speeds to urban speeds. The DGT has been trialing the markings in various municipalities, with Nava de Roa (Burgos) being one of the first to adopt them. The use of these markings is spreading as local councils update their road paint.

The Rule and the Fine

The General Traffic Regulations specify that the M-8.1 marking indicates that drivers must "sensibly reduce" their speed and exercise extra caution. The practical instruction is clear: when you see the "dragon's teeth," ease your speed down to 30 km/h unless a different limit is posted. Drivers who fail to comply and continue at a higher speed risk an administrative fine of up to €200.

Tips for Drivers

To avoid a fine and drive safely in these areas, drivers should:

  • Spot the run-up: The triangles are placed well in advance of the first houses or junctions, so recognize them as an early warning sign.

  • Confirm the speed: Look for a speed limit sign or a painted '30' on the road surface as you enter the urban area.

  • Maintain a slow pace: The intent is not a quick brake but to maintain a steady speed of 30 km/h until signs indicate a change.

  • Be aware of people: These zones are chosen to protect children, pedestrians, and cyclists, so stay alert and be prepared to yield.

The "dragon's teeth" are part of a broader refresh of Spain's traffic signage and markings, aimed at improving road safety. For tourists and residents alike, understanding these simple but crucial markings is essential for safe driving and avoiding a fine.



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Anna: The City of Water
Saturday, August 30, 2025

Nestled in the heart of Spain's Valencian Community, the municipality of Anna is a true natural and historical gem, often celebrated as "The City of Water." Defined by its abundant springs, lakes, and breathtaking waterfalls, Anna offers a perfect blend of serene natural beauty and rich cultural heritage. This comprehensive guide will help you plan an unforgettable trip, from leisurely moments by the water to adventurous hikes through its stunning landscapes.

The centerpiece of Anna's watery world is the Lago Albufera de Anna, a tranquil oasis just a kilometer from the town center. What began as a vital reservoir during the Almohad period is now a cherished tourist destination, seamlessly blending its historical function with modern recreation.

 

 

The lake area is a haven for relaxation and fun. Surrounded by tall pines and plane trees, it's the perfect spot for a leisurely stroll. The calm waters are home to a diverse array of wildlife, including ducks, geese, herons, and various fish. Visitors can enjoy a variety of amenities and activities:

  • Lakeside Recreation: Rent a boat to explore the surface of the lake, or simply relax on one of the many benches and take in the serene views.

  • Swimming: Beat the summer heat with a refreshing dip in the natural swimming pool or, during the warmer months (late June to early September), in the municipal swimming pool.

  • Family Fun: The little ones will love the dedicated children's park, while the whole family can get lost in the Laberinto del Lago, a remarkable plant labyrinth located near the campsite.

 

For those planning to extend their stay, the Municipal Campsite is an excellent option. Please be aware that the campsite is currently undergoing a comprehensive reformation. It is anticipated to reopen in March, offering renovated facilities and a renewed experience for campers. It's advisable to check for an official reopening date directly with Tourist Info Anna before planning your trip to ensure it is fully operational.

 

 

While the Albufera is the main draw, the town of Anna itself is worth exploring. Its historical and natural attractions are deeply connected to its water-rich identity.

  • Palacio de los Condes de Cervellón: A visit to this magnificent palace is a must. Built over the ruins of an ancient Almohad castle, it showcases a beautiful blend of Arabic and Christian architectural styles. The palace also houses the Ethnological Museum and the Water Museum, which provide fascinating insights into the town's history and its relationship with this vital resource.

  • The Fountains and Waterways: Take a stroll through the town center to discover its numerous urban fountains, such as those in the Plaza de la Alameda. The town's historical irrigation channels and water-related constructions are a constant presence, telling the story of Anna's prosperity.

 

 

For the more adventurous, a journey into the natural wonders surrounding Anna is essential. The Ruta de las Tres Cascadas (Route of the Three Waterfalls) is a breathtaking trail that showcases the area's most spectacular features.

  1. Gorgo Gaspar: The first stop on the route is a smaller, but stunning waterfall and a beautiful, clear natural pool.

  2. Cascada de los Vikingos: The second waterfall is the most powerful and impressive, requiring a more challenging trek to reach.

  3. El Salto and Gorgo de la Escalera: The grand finale of the route is the Gorgo de la Escalera, a famous canyon featuring a magnificent 25-meter waterfall. The site is equipped with 136 steps for direct access to the water, making it a popular and accessible spot for wild swimming.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Walking Routes:

  • The Full Route: A challenging 3 km trail with difficult sections. Recommended for intermediate hikers. The full loop can take up to 3 hours or more with stops for photos and swimming.

  • Direct Access: For those who prefer a simpler journey, you can drive to the Gorgo de la Escalera parking area and take the stairs directly down to the pool.

 

Practical Tips for Your Trip

  • Entry Fee: There are entry fees to both the Albufera de Anna and the Route of the Three Waterfalls in high season. The tickets are sometimes sold separately, but can be combined depending on the time of year.

  • Regulations: Barbecues are strictly prohibited. Always respect the environment, use the provided trash cans, and keep pets on a leash.

  • What to Bring: For hiking, wear appropriate footwear with good grip and bring plenty of water and snacks.

  • Stay Connected: For the most up-to-date information on fees, hours, and campsite availability, contact Tourist Info Anna directly.

A visit to Anna is a deep dive into a landscape where nature, history, and culture are beautifully intertwined. Whether you choose to relax by the serene lake or explore the hidden waterfalls, you're sure to leave with unforgettable memories.

 



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A Watch Tower Where You Would Least Expect it...
Thursday, August 21, 2025

 

A part of one of the oldest towers in Madrid is nestled among the cars in a nondescript underground car park. Stumbling upon it is a treat for those looking for a place to park before heading to the Royal Palace in Madrid.

The Tower of Bones (la Torre de los Huesos) was built in the 11th century by the area’s Muslim inhabitants. It received its name because it was near Huesa del Raf, the ancient Islamic cemetery. The tower was built two centuries after the 9th-century construction of the walls of Mayrit, the medieval Muslim city that predates the Spanish one.

The looming structure was situated outside the citadel, where it functioned as a surveillance post over the old Arenal stream. When King Alfonso VI of Castile conquered Madrid in the early 11th century, the watchtower was incorporated into the Christian wall.

 

 

The Royal Palace now occupies the space the tower was built to guard. Bits of its base were discovered in 1996 during renovation work on the Plaza de Oriente by workers constructing an underground parking lot. The partially preserved remains are on display where they were found.

The carpark is situated in front of the Royal Palace in the heart of Madrid. The nearest tube station is "Opera."

 

 



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Ortiguillas de Mar: A Journey from Post-War Necessity to Prized Spanish Delicacy
Thursday, August 14, 2025

The shores of Andalusia, Spain, are home to a culinary secret that has captivated the palates of adventurous eaters for generations. This dish, known as ortiguillas de mar, transforms a humble marine creature—the sea anemone—into a crispy, flavourful delicacy that is a true testament to the region's rich seafood tradition.

 

 

From the Sea Floor to the Frying Pan

Ortiguillas, scientifically known as Anemonia sulcata, are not plants as their appearance might suggest, but marine animals closely related to jellyfish and corals. Found clinging to rocks in the Mediterranean and Atlantic, these anemones use their vibrant green and purple tentacles, armed with stinging cells, to catch small prey. However, a simple preparation method renders them harmless and delicious.

 

 

Historically, ortiguillas were a food of necessity, consumed by coastal communities during the lean years of the Spanish post-war period. Over time, their unique flavour and texture elevated their status from a humble meal to a highly sought-after delicacy, celebrated in coastal towns, particularly in the Bay of Cadiz.

A Taste of the Ocean

The defining characteristic of ortiguillas is their intense and unforgettable flavour. Diners describe it as the concentrated essence of the sea, with a powerful taste that evokes shellfish, iodine, and fresh algae.

The texture is equally remarkable. The most common preparation involves a light batter or a dusting of flour before the anemones are deep-fried in hot olive oil. This process creates a delightful contrast between a crispy, golden-brown exterior and a soft, juicy, and creamy interior. This unique combination has earned them the affectionate nickname of "sea brains" among some gourmets.

 

 

The Art of Preparation

Harvesting ortiguillas is a delicate and time-consuming process, as they are hand-picked from their rocky homes by divers. Because they lose their freshness quickly, they are best enjoyed as close to their source as possible, making them a true regional speciality.

The preparation is simple yet crucial. The anemones are thoroughly cleaned and rinsed, sometimes steeped in vinegar to help remove any impurities and neutralise the stinging cells. They are then coated in a batter, often made from flour, and fried until golden. They are typically served as a simple tapa, allowing their powerful and singular flavour to take centre stage.

 

 

 

While frying is the most popular method, the versatility of ortiguillas has led chefs to incorporate them into other dishes, from enhancing the marine flavour of a rice dish to being a key ingredient in croquettes and scrambled eggs. Whether served on their own or as part of a more complex creation, ortiguillas de mar offer a delicious and unforgettable taste of Spain's coastal heritage.



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Epic Cyling Routes This Summer In Spain
Friday, July 18, 2025

As summer is in full swing, it is time to share some of the best cycling routes around Spain for those who fancy pedalling a little or a lot! If you are into cycling, here are some of the best and safest routes you can follow to discover rural Spain:


Vía Verde de Ojos Negros (from Teruel to Valencia)

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The longest of a nationwide network of Vía Verdes (literally, Green Ways) along disused railroads, the Ojos Negros route runs for 160 kilometres in two stages. The first is in Teruel province and passes through the Sierra Menera, while the second descends through the interior of Valencia down to the coast.

 
The Transpirenaica (from Cabo de Higuer to Cabo de Creus)

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This trans-Pyrenees route runs for close to 800 kilometres along the southern slopes of the mountain range, from the Cantabrian coast (Cabo de Higuer, Hondarribia, Irún) to the Mediterranean (Cabo de Creus, in Girona province). Or vice versa. Part of the Europe-wide GR network of footpaths, its distinctive red and white markings have guided thousands of cyclists from around the world through protected areas in the Basque Country, Navarre, Aragon, Andorra, and Catalonia dominated by 3,000-meter peaks and with accommodation available in picturesque mountain villages. The perfect combination of nature, landscape, history, and cuisine.


The French Way of the Camino de Santiago

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Those in the know say the French Way (Camino Francés) of the Camino de Santiago (which runs for nearly 800 kilometres between Saint Jean de Pied de Port, in France, and the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain) is the best of the five major Saint James pilgrim routes. It’s easy enough at almost any time of year and offers a tremendous range of landscapes, architecture and cuisine, with any number of historical sites, cathedrals, monasteries, churches, fountains, hostels, restaurants and other facilities. This route is stage one, if you go to the link it will explain the following stages of the route.

 

The Vía de la Plata Route

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The Via de la Plata Route, a network made up of 26 towns and cities, from Gijón on the Cantabrian coast to Seville, in Andalusia, in collaboration with four regional governments, has set up a bike route (also available on an app), with information and advice for cyclists, along with the best routes for road racers or off-road bikes, as well as a passport that gives holders discounts in establishments along the ancient trade route dating back to before the Romans – the name of which, contrary to popular belief, comes not from the Spanish for silver, plata, but from the Arabic Al-balat, which means paved or cobbled.


The Camino del Cid

http://www.caminodelcid.org

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“The Way of El Cid is a cultural-tourist route across Spain from northwest to southeast, from Castilla in the interior to the Mediterranean coast. It follows the history and story of Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar, El Cid Campeador, a famous medieval knight of the 11th century and who, together with Don Quixote and Don Juan, is one of Spain’s greatest characters. Unlike the latter two, El Cid is not only a character of literature but also of history.” So reads the Camino del Cid website, which offers both a road and mountain bike routes along some 1,400 kilometres of pathways and 2,000 kilometres of roads divided into theme-based itineraries running for between 50 and 300 kilometres: The Exile (Burgos, Soria, Guadalajara), The Borderlands (Guadalajara, Zaragoza, Soria), The Conquest of Valencia (Teruel, Castellón, Valencia), along with seven others. 

 

 The Ruta de Don Quijote (Castilla-La Mancha)

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Along the course of its 2,500 kilometres broken up into 10 stages that pass through 148 communities in the five provinces of Castilla-La Mancha, the Don Quijote route takes in the main natural and cultural areas of the region, featuring livestock routes, historic roads, rivers and disused railroads that provide access to more than 2,000 sites of cultural interest. Along the way, there are plenty of great outdoors activities: birdwatching, the Cabañeros and Tablas de Daimiel national parks, six natural parks, 12 reserves and six micro-reserves. (These are two routes from different stages of the entire route)

 
The TransAndalus

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Conceived as a way to get to know Andalusia’s eight provinces by bike, from the volcanic landscapes of Cabo de Gata, in Almeria, down to the wetlands of Doñana, in Huelva, the TransAndalus is a non-signposted 2,000 kilometre itinerary for cyclists. Some sections include GR paths, while one-third of the routes pass through protected areas. This project was set up by cycling enthusiasts in Andalusia who have provided information to build up this ever-growing collection of maps, routes and tracks, all with GPS.

 

The Castilla Canal (Castilla y León)

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In the middle of the 18th century, a project was begun to transport cereals grown in Castilla y León to ports on the Cantabrian coast via a network of canals, but only 207 kilometres of the so-called Canal de Castilla was ever built. That said, it is a fine example of Spanish hydraulic engineering and very popular with bike lovers. It can also be travelled by foot, horse or by barge. The northern route runs from Alar del Rey toward Calahorra de Ribas, in Palencia province, and from there to Medina de Rioseco, in Valladolid; the southern route runs from El Serrón, in Grijota (Palencia), to Valladolid.


The Cister route (Tarragona and Lleida)

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The Alt Camp and Conca de Barberá districts in Tarragona, along with Urgell in neighbouring Lleida, each have a major Cistercian monastery: Santes Creus, Poblet and Vallbona de Les Monges respectively. The GR 175 links the three monasteries: 108 kilometres for cyclists, with four options in the more difficult stretches. This is the backbone of the Ruta del Cister, which includes 65 communities offering not just a rich cultural heritage but spectacular scenery, great wine and food, and lively fiestas.

 

Get pedalling!

 



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Best Beaches to Visit this Summer in Spain
Friday, July 4, 2025

Spain, with its diverse coastlines and islands, boasts an incredible array of beaches, catering to every type of traveller. From the rugged beauty of the Atlantic north to the sun-drenched Mediterranean shores and the volcanic sands of the Canary Islands, here's a guide to some of the best places to go to the beach in Spain.

The Balearic Islands: A Mediterranean Paradise

The Balearic Islands (Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza, and Formentera) are renowned for their crystal-clear turquoise waters and stunning coves.

 

  • Formentera: Often compared to the Caribbean, Platja de Ses Illetes on Formentera is a true gem. Its powdery white sand and impossibly turquoise waters are perfect for barefoot bliss. To avoid crowds, especially from Ibiza day-trippers, consider visiting in late spring or early autumn.

  • Menorca: For families and those seeking tranquil beauty, Cala Macarella and its smaller sister Cala Macarelleta are idyllic. Tucked among pine-clad cliffs, these half-moon bays offer fine white sand and clear, calm waters. Playa de Son Bou is another excellent family-friendly option with its long stretch of sand and shallow entry.

  • Mallorca: The largest of the Balearics, Mallorca offers a variety of beaches. Playa de Muro in the north is ideal for families, known for its extensive soft white sand and shallow waters. For a more secluded experience, Cala Torta in a nature reserve offers white sand and dunes, even in peak season. Cala Mondrago strikes a perfect balance between natural beauty and amenities.

  • Ibiza: While famous for its nightlife, Ibiza also boasts beautiful beaches. Cala Comte is celebrated for its stunning sunsets and clear, shallow waters, with various small coves to explore. Platja Ses Salines is another popular choice, known for its natural features and diverse crowd.

 

The Mediterranean Mainland: Sun, Sand, and Culture

Spain's Mediterranean coast, or "Costas," offers a blend of vibrant urban beaches and serene natural escapes.

 

  • Costa Brava (Catalonia): This "Wild Coast" lives up to its name with rugged cliffs and hidden coves. Cala Bramant is a spectacular, sheltered circular cove perfect for swimming and snorkeling. Tossa de Mar offers a picturesque setting with its medieval wall.

  • Costa Dorada (Catalonia): Meaning "Golden Coast," this region is known for its fine, golden sands. Cala de la Roca Plana offers a peaceful retreat with crystal-clear Mediterranean waters, ideal for peace seekers and nudists.

  • Costa Blanca (Alicante): The "White Coast" is one of Spain's most famous. San Juan Playa in Alicante is a popular choice with white sands and excellent facilities. For a more secluded experience, explore the coves and natural beaches.

  • Costa del Sol (Andalusia): As its name suggests, the "Coast of the Sun" boasts over 300 days of sunshine a year. Playa La Malagueta in Malaga is a lively urban beach close to the city center, while Playa Fontanilla in Marbella offers quality and cleanliness with a touch of glamour.

  • Costa de Almería (Andalusia): For photo opportunities with nature, the Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park offers spectacularly beautiful and often uncrowded beaches like Playa San Pedro and Cala de Enmedio, known for their wild beauty and geological formations.

 

The Atlantic Coast: Dramatic Landscapes and Wild Beauty

Northern Spain offers a different, more rugged coastal experience with cooler waters and dramatic scenery.

 

 

  • Galicia: Playa de las Catedrales (Cathedrals Beach) in Galicia is a breathtaking natural wonder, named for its dramatic rock formations resembling Gothic cathedral arches, best seen at low tide. Playa de Roda on the Cies Islands is a crescent-shaped paradise with gleaming white sand and turquoise Atlantic waters.

  • Basque Country: La Concha Bay in San Sebastián is consistently ranked among Europe's best urban beaches. Its symmetrical shape and elegant 19th-century promenade make it a classic choice, perfect for a lively city beach experience.

 

The Canary Islands: Volcanic Wonders and Year-Round Sun

Located off the coast of Africa, the Canary Islands offer a unique blend of volcanic landscapes and diverse beaches, enjoying a pleasant climate year-round.

 

 

  • Gran Canaria: Playa de Maspalomas is famous for its vast sand dunes, creating a unique desert-like landscape right by the sea.

  • Tenerife: Las Teresitas Beach near Santa Cruz de Tenerife offers golden Saharan sands and calm waters, making it a popular and family-friendly option.

  • Fuerteventura: Sotavento Beach is known for its wide, wild expanses and is a haven for wind and kitesurfers.

  • Lanzarote: Playa Papagayo is a collection of stunning, secluded coves with clear turquoise waters, accessible via a small entry fee.

Whether you're seeking lively urban beaches with every amenity, secluded coves for a tranquil escape, or dramatic natural landscapes, Spain's diverse coastline truly offers a beach for every preference. Remember to check local guidelines, especially for popular natural beaches, as some may require permits during peak seasons to preserve their beauty.



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Dive into Zaragoza's River Aquarium
Friday, June 20, 2025

In Zaragoza, the River Aquarium (Acuario Fluvial de Zaragoza) offers a captivating journey through the world's major river ecosystems. More than just an aquarium, it's an educational and immersive experience that showcases the incredible biodiversity found in freshwater habitats across the globe. For any tourist visiting Spain, and especially those exploring the Aragon region, this unique attraction is an absolute must-see.

 

 

The River Aquarium was a key pavilion during the 2008 Zaragoza International Expo, which focused on water and sustainable development. Its enduring presence stands as a testament to the Expo's legacy, continuing to educate and inspire visitors long after the event concluded. The modern, striking architecture of the building itself is a sight to behold, reflecting the importance of its contents.

What Awaits You Inside?

Prepare to be amazed as you embark on a fascinating aquatic adventure, tracing the course of some of the world's most iconic rivers:

  • The Nile: Discover the ancient lifeblood of Egypt, home to impressive Nile crocodiles, cichlids, and other African species.
  • The Amazon: Plunge into the lush, biodiverse waters of the Amazon rainforest, where piranhas, colossal arapaima, and an astonishing array of colourful fish thrive amidst dense vegetation.
  • The Mekong: Explore the vibrant ecosystems of Southeast Asia's lifeline, featuring unique and often surprising species from this mighty river.
  • The Murray-Darling: Journey to the distant waters of Australia, encountering some of its distinctive aquatic inhabitants.
  • The Ebro: Naturally, the aquarium pays homage to its local river, the Ebro, showcasing the native fish and amphibians that call this Spanish waterway home.
  • The World River Plaza: This central tank is a spectacular highlight, representing an amalgamation of global river life and housing some of the aquarium's largest and most impressive inhabitants.

Beyond the Fish: Education and Conservation

The River Aquarium is not just about showcasing beautiful creatures; it's deeply committed to education and conservation. Informative displays, interactive exhibits, and engaging presentations highlight the delicate balance of river ecosystems, the threats they face (such as pollution and habitat loss), and the importance of conservation efforts. It's an excellent opportunity for visitors of all ages to learn about freshwater biodiversity and how they can contribute to its protection.

 

 

Practical Information for Tourists:

  • Location: The River Aquarium is conveniently located on the left bank of the Ebro River, within the beautiful Luis Buñuel Water Park (Parque del Agua Luis Buñuel), an easy and pleasant walk from the city center or accessible via public transport.
  • Opening Hours: Check the official website for the most up-to-date opening hours, as these can vary seasonally.
  • Tickets: Tickets can be purchased online in advance or at the entrance. Consider purchasing a combined ticket if you plan to visit other attractions in Zaragoza.
  • Facilities: The aquarium offers amenities such as a gift shop, and often has a cafeteria or restaurant where you can grab a bite to eat.
  • Family-Friendly: The River Aquarium is incredibly family-friendly, with engaging exhibits that captivate children and adults alike. It's an ideal activity for a rainy day or a break from exploring Zaragoza's historic sites.

 

 

Making the Most of Your Visit:

  • Allow Ample Time: To fully appreciate all the exhibits and soak in the atmosphere, allocate at least 2-3 hours for your visit.
  • Read the Information: Take the time to read the informative plaques and learn about the fascinating species and ecosystems you're observing.
  • Check for Special Activities: The aquarium sometimes hosts special events, feeding times, or guided tours, which can enhance your experience. Check their website before your visit.

 

 

A trip to Zaragoza's River Aquarium offers a unique opportunity to connect with the planet's vital freshwater systems. It's a journey of discovery that will leave you with a deeper appreciation for the aquatic world and a renewed sense of responsibility towards its preservation. Don't miss this  experience!



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Embrace the Flames and Fortune: Your Expat Guide to San Juan in Spain
Friday, June 6, 2025

As June descends upon Spain, a palpable excitement fills the air, culminating in one of the country's most enchanting and ancient celebrations: Las Hogueras de San Juan (The Bonfires of Saint John). Marking the summer solstice and the eve of St. John the Baptist's birthday, this magical night on June 23rd offers expats a unique opportunity to immerse themselves in a blend of pagan rituals and Christian traditions.

But what exactly can you expect from this fiery fiesta, and how can you prepare to experience it like a true local? Read on for your essential guide.

What to Expect: A Night of Fire, Water, and Community

San Juan is a nationwide phenomenon, with celebrations varying slightly by region, but the core elements of fire and water remain universal.

  • Bonfires (Hogueras/Fogueres/Cacharelas): The undisputed stars of the night. Across beaches, plazas, and even some streets, bonfires of all sizes are meticulously built. These range from small, personal fires where friends and families gather, to enormous, elaborate effigies (particularly in Alicante, where they are true works of art akin to Valencia's Fallas) that are spectacularly burned at midnight. The fires symbolise purification, burning away the old and negative to make way for new beginnings and good luck.

  • Firecrackers and Fireworks: The air crackles with excitement as fireworks light up the sky and firecrackers punctuate the night with loud bangs. In some regions, like Catalonia, you might encounter "correfocs" (fire runs), where costumed "demons" run through the streets with fireworks, creating a dazzling but intense display.

  • Water Rituals: As midnight strikes, a wave of revelers often rushes to the sea or rivers. Tradition dictates that dipping your feet, or even taking a full swim, at midnight purifies the soul and body, washing away bad luck. Jumping over seven waves is a particularly popular ritual for good fortune. Some people also wash their face three times at midnight for wishes and good health.

 

 

  • Community and Merriment (Verbena): San Juan is a deeply social affair. Friends and families gather on beaches, in parks, or even set up tables in the streets for communal dinners. Food, drink, music, and dancing are integral to the celebration, often continuing until the early hours of the morning. Expect a lively, multi-generational atmosphere
  • Symbolic Burning: Beyond the main bonfires, many individuals will write down wishes, worries, or things they want to leave behind on pieces of paper and throw them into the flames, or burn old personal items.
  • Regional Variations:
    • Alicante: The "Fogueres de Sant Joan" is a grand, week-long festival culminating in the burning of massive, artistic bonfires on June 24th, followed by a "banyá" (firefighters hosing down revelers).
    • Catalonia (Nit de Sant Joan): Known for its intense beach parties, elaborate firework displays, and the arrival of the "Flama del Canigó" (Canigó Flame) which is used to light many of the bonfires.
    • Galicia: Celebrates with "cacharelas," roasted sardines, and the tradition of gathering "herbas de San Xoán" (San Juan herbs) to leave in water overnight for a purifying wash the next morning.
    • Malaga: Often features the burning of "júas," rag dolls representing negative aspects of the past year.

How to Prepare: Your Expat Checklist

To truly enjoy San Juan, a little preparation goes a long way.

 

 

  1. Choose Your Location Wisely:

    • Big Cities (Barcelona, Valencia, Alicante, Malaga): Offer large, organized celebrations, often with major firework displays and concerts. Expect huge crowds.
    • Smaller Coastal Towns: Provide a more intimate, local experience, with families gathering on the beach with their own bonfires.
    • Inland Towns: Some inland towns also have bonfires and festivities, often with a more traditional, less beach-focused vibe.
    • Consider visiting a local tourism office or checking municipal websites for specific program details in your chosen area.
  2. Dress for the Occasion (Comfort and Safety First!):

    • Comfortable, Closed-Toe Shoes: Absolutely essential. You'll be walking a lot, often on sand or uneven ground, and near fires. Avoid sandals.
    • Old Clothes: Wear something you don't mind getting dirty, sandy, or potentially singed. Natural fibres like cotton are preferable to synthetics, which can melt.
    • Long Sleeves/Hood (Optional but Recommended): Especially if you plan to get close to the bonfires or fire runs, a light long-sleeved top or a hoodie can offer some protection from sparks and heat.
    • Swimsuit and Towel: If you plan to partake in the midnight swim!
  3. Pack Your Essentials:

    • Food and Drinks: Many locals bring picnic dinners to the beach or set up street tables. Pack a cooler with snacks, drinks (water is key!), and perhaps some coca de Sant Joan (a traditional sweet bread, often with candied fruit and pine nuts).
    • Blankets/Chairs: To comfortably stake out your spot, especially on the beach.
    • Earplugs/Headphones: Especially important if you're sensitive to loud noises, as firecrackers can be constant and intense. Essential for children and pets.
    • Eye Protection: If you plan to get close to firework displays or correfocs, consider glasses or a mask.
    • Rubbish Bags: Be a responsible reveller and take all your rubbish with you. Local authorities often put out extra bins, but beaches can get very messy if not respected.
  4. Safety First!

    • Fires are Hot: Maintain a safe distance from bonfires. Do not jump over large bonfires unless you are confident and aware of the risks. Never use flammable liquids to light fires.
    • Firecrackers are Dangerous: Do not handle fireworks or firecrackers if you are not experienced, and always follow local guidelines. Keep them away from your body, face, and other people. Never put them inside objects like bottles or bricks.
    • Crowds: Be aware of your surroundings, especially in very crowded areas. Keep an eye on your belongings to prevent pickpocketing.
    • Children and Pets: Supervise children closely. Keep pets indoors or in a quiet, safe space as the noise and fires can be very distressing for them.
    • Alcohol: Drink responsibly. San Juan is a long night, and excessive alcohol can impair judgment, especially around fire.
  5. Transportation:

    • Public Transport: Expect significant crowds and potential road closures, especially near popular celebration spots. Public transport often runs extended or special services, making it the best option. Check local transport websites for updated schedules.
    • Parking: Avoid driving to popular areas if possible; parking will be scarce.
  6. Embrace the Spirit:

    • Participate: Don't be afraid to join in the rituals. Jump over a small bonfire (safely!), dip your feet in the sea at midnight, or simply enjoy the communal meal.
    • Be Patient: With large crowds, things might move slower than usual. Embrace the relaxed Spanish pace.
    • Enjoy the Magic: San Juan is a night brimming with ancient symbolism and joyful energy. Let yourself be swept up in the atmosphere and celebrate the arrival of summer in true Spanish style.

 

 

San Juan is more than just a party; it's a deeply ingrained cultural experience that offers a unique glimpse into Spanish traditions. By understanding what to expect and preparing accordingly, expats can ensure a memorable and safe night of fire, water, and celebration under the Spanish stars. ¡Feliz Noche de San Juan!



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Spanish Craft Beer
Friday, May 23, 2025

In Spain, however much they might like going out for a few beers, they're not known as a beer-drinking country. Change is in the air, however, and more and more Spaniards are scouting out quality and originality in their beer. It's becoming a normal thing to go to a beer tasting, and the words associated with beer are beginning to sound less and less foreign. Each province now has a microbrewery or two that make and market their own brews, organise classes and tastings with pairing suggestions, open their brewery doors to the public so they can get a closer look at how it's done, etc just as wineries have been doing for years, encouraging tourism similar to wine tourism, though it is still in its early stages.

The ingredients are simple: water, barley (which turns into malt after germination and the drying of the barley), hops and yeast. People have been brewing beer for centuries and it has been one of the world's biggest industries throughout history. Here are some of the most popular craft beers in Spain which are well worth tasting...

 

La Salve, Bilbao: A beer that is coming back strong

This isn't a new beer; the brewery was founded in 1886. After being closed for several decades, La Salve was reborn in 2014 with the aim of becoming the figurehead of Bilbao's beers. With the intention of creating cultural spaces in which to support new artists, its name comes from the site of its first brewery, underneath the La Salve bridge which is now directly connected to the Guggenheim Museum. It was the son of a German brewer who lived in the capital who set the ball in motion. They brew two types of beer: 33 cl and 50 cl golden and Munich ales, the perfect match for meat and cheese thanks to their caramel aroma and the hints of malt and clove.


Cibeles, Madrid.

Can't get any more Madrid than this. Cibeles, with 12 different kinds of beer, has only been on the market for four years and its microbrewery south of the city has become a gathering place for craft beer lovers. Besides brewing and bottling their beers, they also host activities at their facilities, ranging from tastings and classes on brewing to concerts. The space is also available to hire for company events or meetings. Their beers go from the classic pale ale, smooth and refreshing, to a stout with more body that releases aromas and flavours of coffee and chocolate.

 


Cervecería Casasola, Valladolid. From the heart of the Esgueva Valley

They were pioneers in Castilla y León in microbrewing. The brewery is housed in what was once a monastery's dairy. They've captured the essence of the place in their brand and their logo which features a monk; a reference to the abbots, considered the best brewers of them all. In Casasola they bottle a large variety of beers in 75 cl bottles, giving them the opportunity to ferment for a second time in the bottle, strengthening the flavour. That's how they add hints of pepper, orange and even a final touch of coriander to their wheat beer.


Beer Cat, Barcelona. Craft beer born in a country villa
Beer Cat is a special case in several ways. It is Spanish brewing led by three English partners who decided one day to leave their homeland and embark on this project in Barcelona. Inside a typical Catalan masia, or country villa, they brew six types of beer and offer guided tours of the estate. Each one of its beers pairs perfectly with different dishes, like its Pa i Roses, a wheat beer, whose touches of lime and citric aromas perfectly bring out the flavours of fish dishes.

 

 

 



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Madrid Buzzing as San Isidro Festival Draws to a Close
Monday, May 12, 2025

Madrid is currently alive with the vibrant energy of its annual San Isidro festival, a cherished celebration honouring the city's patron saint, San Isidro Labrador. This significant event, deeply rooted in tradition yet embracing contemporary flair, unfolds every year in mid-May, with the saint's feast day falling on the 15th. This year, the festivities commenced at the beginning of May and will continue until the 15th, offering a delightful blend of cultural experiences for locals and visitors alike. The atmosphere is one of warm Spanish hospitality, where age-old customs mingle seamlessly with modern entertainment, ensuring there's something to captivate every attendee. For those seeking a late spring getaway filled with authentic cultural immersion, the San Isidro festival presents a compelling opportunity, especially as it enters its final, exhilarating stretch.

 


At the heart of the San Isidro celebrations lies a deep respect for tradition, and a central element of this is the pilgrimage, or romería, to the Pradera de San Isidro. Here, families and friends gather in a joyous atmosphere, many adorned in the traditional Madrileño attire of "chulapo" for men and "chulapa" for women. This practice not only showcases a strong sense of local identity but also provides a visually stunning and culturally enriching experience for anyone witnessing the scene.

 

 

The act of dressing in these historical garments and congregating in this specific location speaks to a long-standing cultural practice, passed down through generations, offering a genuine glimpse into Madrid's heritage. Adding to the unique customs is the tradition of drinking "agua del santo," or holy water, from the spring located next to the Ermita de San Isidro (San Isidro Hermitage). This ritual connects the festival to its religious foundations and offers a distinctive cultural experience for those who partake. The act of consuming this water carries a symbolic weight, likely linked to the patron saint, providing a deeper understanding of the festival's origins. No visit to the Pradera de San Isidro during the festival would be complete without indulging in the traditional foods, most notably the rosquillas and limonada.

 

 

 

The rosquillas, a type of ring-shaped pastry, come in various tempting forms, including the plain "tontas," the sugar-glazed "listas," the meringue-topped Santa Clara, and the almond-covered "francesas". This variety suggests a rich culinary tradition associated with the festival. The Madrid-style limonada is a refreshing concoction of wine, lemon, sugar, and chopped fruit, offering a distinct local flavour. The specific mention of these different types of pastries indicates a level of culinary detail and tradition that goes beyond typical festival fare. The ingredients of the limonada point to a refreshing and potentially potent local beverage perfect for the spring weather.

 

 

While specific dates have passed, the types of traditional events that have recently occurred include the blessing of the water from the Santo Fountain and a special opening of the Chapel of San Isidro. These events underscore the religious significance of the festival and provide opportunities for spiritual participation. Adding a vibrant and playful element to the festivities are the parades of giants and big-heads, known as pasacalles de gigantes y cabezudos. These lively processions, which have taken place in the Plaza de la Villa, bring colour and amusement to the streets, appealing to families and people of all ages. For those eager to immerse themselves further in Madrid's culture, workshops on the traditional Madrid dance, the "chotis," have been held at the Círculo de Bellas Artes, offering an interactive and engaging way to learn this iconic dance. 


The San Isidro festival offers more than just traditions and music; it encompasses a wide range of activities that transform Madrid into a city-wide celebration. The official opening of the festival is marked by the pregón, a speech delivered by a well-known personality. This event signifies the formal commencement of the festivities and often generates excitement and anticipation. The traditional Pottery Fair, or Feria de la Cacharrería, takes place in the Plaza de las Comendadoras, providing an opportunity to discover and purchase traditional crafts. This fair offers a chance to experience traditional Spanish craftsmanship and acquire unique souvenirs. For a more unusual form of entertainment, the Mechanical Theatre, or Teatro Mecánico, presents its performances at Matadero Madrid. This quirky and perhaps nostalgic form of entertainment adds to the festival's diverse offerings.

 

 

Book lovers can explore the Antique and Second-Hand Book Fair, which runs along the Paseo de Recoletos, extending beyond the main festival period. This caters to a specific interest and indicates a broader cultural celebration in the city. The religious foundation of the festival is also evident through various traditional religious ceremonies held throughout the celebration, including the blessing of the water and masses at different locations. These events underscore the religious significance of San Isidro and provide opportunities for worship and reflection. A significant event within the festival program is the prestigious San Isidro Bullfighting Fair, held at the Plaza Monumental de Las Ventas. While this event can be a subject of differing opinions, it remains a deeply ingrained part of Spanish culture and the San Isidro festivities, attracting a dedicated audience. The culmination of the San Isidro festival is marked by a spectacular fireworks display on the final day. This grand finale provides a memorable and visually stunning conclusion to the celebrations.


As the San Isidro festival approaches its final days, the energy and excitement in Madrid remain palpable. The blend of enduring traditions, captivating musical performances, and diverse cultural activities creates an atmosphere unlike any other. For those seeking a last-minute cultural adventure, the remaining days of the San Isidro festival offer a unique opportunity to experience the heart and soul of Madrid in full celebratory swing. Don't miss the chance to witness the final flourish of this beloved fiesta.
 



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