I know time flies when you are having fun but I can hardly believe
it but the 4th anniversary of our arrival in Spain is fast approaching.
As a consequence, I have started to reflect on my Spain, the Spain I
have grown to know and love.
For those of you who saw the first and/or second of my notes from
Spain, I set out below another half dozen of our well-learned
“Lessons”.
Lesson 1 – The rain rarely falls in
Spain. When my wife, Andrea, and I decided that it would be a major
improvement in our family’s lifestyle to relocate to a new country, as
I had lived and work for a Law Firm in Paris in the early 80’s, France
seemed an obvious candidate.
For many years a January business trip involved attending the MIDEM
festival in Cannes in the South of France. It had rained stair rods for
most of the years I had attended but I brushed that aside as “Well
that’s January for you!” I had seen the Cote d’Azur in all its
Summertime glory on many occasions, reflected in the turn of the last
century works of F. Scott Fitzgerald and more recently I had been
further seduced by the slightly Disneylandesque view of Main Street,
France, the region called “Provence”.
I was keen to see if France would work for us. However, when friends,
who had preceded us in relocating outside the UK, reported that in fact
the uncertain and indifferent weather continued for much of the Spring,
Autumn and Winter months with slight reprieve in May leading to a
reasonable summer, it was not sufficiently reliable.
Let me be clear, I am not so shallow as to make such a crucial decision
on the basis of the weather alone but the idea of the South of Spain as
delivering around 300 days plus of Sun per year became a very important
draw.
I am writing this in early March 2006 and daytime temperatures are
cresting around 20 degree C. We are clear that by midsummer water
supplies will be at a premium and we are doing all we can to sensibly
conserve stocks now. This brings minor inconveniences but until the
local desalination plants are working at full strength we will need to
be cautious.
The advice is simple. If the weather in your home country is a major
reason for your proposed relocation, and it is, for many from Northern
Europe and North America, then do your research and see whether you can
better Spain’s Costas and their perfect Mediterranean climate.
Lesson 2 – To add to the pleasure
of Spain why not taste it! For many the nadir of European cookery is
the finest French Haute cuisine or the friendly and more rustic Italian
Trattoria menu. Whilst I really do appreciate the excellence of both,
Spain’s signature dishes and exceptional wines, particularly the red
(vino tinto) from the Autonomous Regions - that comprise mainland Spain
- are no longer a poor third. The Mediterranean Diet with its emphasis
on fresh colourful vegetables, smashing fish and meat dishes, inventive
“Tapas” plates and the extensive use of fine Olive oil is not the
preserve of Spain’s coastal neighbours.
Although, I am certain that there will be many who’ll bemoan my
releasing this information to a wider public, but the risk of passing
on the pleasure will out way the burden of disclosure. There are many
excellent “Ventas” in most rural and metropolitan areas that serve the
very best local specialties. These are café bar type establishments
that open from early morning for coffee and toasted bread, which you
may like to grate with a fresh garlic clove and spread with a light
tomato puree, a sprinkling of sea salt and olive oil, serving many
steaming plates until well after dark.
At lunchtime, a favourite time for most Spaniards to eat, a “Menu del
Dia” (Menu of the Day), often priced as low as €7 ($8 or £5) for two or
three courses and a drink is possibly the cheapest and most nourishing
way to taste Spain. The starter of a classic Gazpacho soup, definitive
Mediterranean cookery and basically “health in a bowl” is a must!
The extensive use of pulses, lentils (lentejas), chickpeas (garbanzos),
beans (alubias) and rice (arroz) will have the advocates of the high
fibre diet praising you to the hills whilst the sausages, dry cured
hams (jamon) and meat dishes such as the classic Estofada (veal stew)
will keep any carnivore happy.
Lesson 3 – Learn and speak as much
Spanish as you can. Unlike the usual French maxim of “it doesn’t matter
what you say as long as you pronounce it correctly” most Spaniards
realise that if you are from an English or Germanic language heritage
the chances of “school boy” Spanish are slim. Consequently, in making
the effort to acclimatise to your new home, complimenting your expat
life with a decent level of spoken Spanish can only prove advantageous.
In working here I have had to develop a slightly more detailed
understanding of the language and it’s been easy to massively embarrass
myself in formal meetings conducted in the native language. However,
the encouragement that I have received has generally meant that
although there’s a level of “it’s the foreigner who’s trying” good
hearted gibes it’s a small price to pay and an immense source of
satisfaction when you get it approximately right.
I should point out that when I refer to “Spanish”, I am speaking of
Castellano which is that form of Spanish spoken by most of the regions
of Spain with the exclusion of the Catalunya region. Centred on
Barcelona, the locals speak a distinct language called “Catalan”.
Thanks to the European Community, my UK legal qualifications are
recognised by my local Bar – the Illustre Colegio de Abogados de Malaga
– and they curiously seem keen to have me as a member.
I am convinced that although it is theoretically feasible to practice
law in Spain as a non-Spaniard, the Legal System – which differs from
the UK and US “Common Law” system – and is based on the Napoleonic
Codified Civil Law - mitigates against playing on an even pitch with my
local colleagues. As a non-Mother Tongue Spanish speaker it is clear
that I may even be a hindrance to a foreign client. There is a somewhat
“Civil service” mentality to the administration of “life” in Spain. It
has proven much more efficient and substantially more advantageous to
our clients for me to work through our legal colleagues within the
context of my professional services solutions provider business, “The
Rights Group SL”.
Lesson 4 - Nil desperandum – The Costa del Sol is known by many as the “California” of Europe. These two regions have much in common.
The older properties, of which there are relatively few outside the
picturesque Pueblos Blanco (White Villages), share the same heritage
and a distinctive look that is reminiscent of the Mission in Santa
Barbara, California, USA.
Aged 20 I was taken by family friends to Los Angeles’ Century City
PlayBoy Club, which was as normal for my hosts as visiting a drive thru
Burger King. In addition to the blond leggy Californian girls this
visit held a further special charm. The early 80’s represented a time
of new experiences and one of particular potency was being in Century
City surrounded by satin clad bunnies and having my first experience of
Cherry Tomatoes. These little globes of freshness are, together with
most of our weekly shopping basket, cultivated locally in Spain having
reached the UK perhaps nearly fifteen years after I first tried them in
the US. They are one of many the staple foods of Europe now produced
under polythene shrouds right down to the water’s edge particularly
along the Eastern Costa del Sol.
Very few meals in my house pass without some fresh local produce and
the adaptable Cherry Tomato invariably appears in one course or
another!
As a dictionary definition the expression “Californian” conjures up an
image of sun and a bohemian lifestyle. “Laid back” or “Taking it easy”.
Well Spain has the same scheme, particularly in the South and it is
summed up in the expression “Mañana” (“Tomorrow”). A shrug of the
shoulders and a sence of resignation that “its out of my hands” can
drive the average expat mad in bewilderment and frustration.
A failure to learn, early on in your relationship with Spain, that the
more you push the incrementally more difficult your dealings will
become, is a recipe for disaster. You cannot shout at a Spaniard and
expect to amend their stance – they won’t. No matter how big you ego
is, it will be totally deflated by a Notary’s cashier or shop assistant
– I know this from experience. However frustrating, responding
proactively to a complaint is just not within the litany of many
Spaniard’s reactions. As Spain’s First Minister, Jose Luis Rodriquez
Zapatero is alleged to have remarked recently that he is the head of a
country comprising over 40 million “First Ministers”. This tells us
something of the national character.
Advising, our Northern European clients to become “Californian” may
sound like nonsense. However, I have learned in the last three years of
dealing with colleagues and administrators in this environment, that
you can only work with the System, and it is a folly to try to buck it.
Maintaining a stress level in the red zone is not only highly
unproductive - its life threatening. Although exasperation is
acceptable, a coronary awaits those who allow the pressure to overwhelm
them. “Chill a little.”
In our working lives we have been able to “soften the blow”, as its one
of our prime roles to “drive” the relationship between the advisor and
the expat client. We cannot provide a totally stress free Spain –it
really is part of the nation's charm – but we do work with some
excellent advisors who really do make the difference for our clients.
We have known of people for whom the dream of Spain didn’t translate to
the reality. They are rare but a couple who I know recently returned to
the UK cited the System as being a major contributor to their
unhappiness. Albeit a complete generalisation Spaniard’s seem to know
how the System can be made to work in their favor. Their logic is
infallible; they “Work to Live” rather than “Live to Work”.
Lesson 5 - Give Flamenco a chance.
At the risk of offending the heritage of our friends and neighbours –
particularly those from the Celtic regions of Northern Europe - no
distinct musical style is more definitive of its homeland than
Flamenco. Whether it’s the guttural signing – which a really acquired
taste - the whirling dancing, a prancing horse or a bright guitar
chord, Flamenco is a brand and for any marketing executive it is short
hand for Spain.
Trust me there will come a point when you are in a supermarket queue
when you will start to drum you fingers in time with the in store music
and you may just be tempted to clap a Flamenco beat.
My suggestion, and a topical cure to this inevitable decent into
becoming pro Spanish, are the CDs “Chambao”. The skill of “Chambao” is
to marry more traditional Flamenco phrasing and style with a modern
techno beats to produce the coolest chill out music – see the advice
given in Lesson 16 above - currently available on my in car CD player.
Lesson 6 - The
Life/Work/Play/Family balance. In moving to Spain, although I suspect
that I did work fairly hard in London the workload I have had since
opening our business in Spain has been fairly intense. As a consequence
I have had to explore an ability to blend the elements of life such
that one doesn’t submerge the others. I am starting to learn, and am
aware that I have yet to perfect this skill, but acknowledging that
something exists is the start of finding a solution. Unlike much of the
time in London, at least my kids now know me by sight!
When there is more certainty about the weather the ability to plan for
outdoors is greatly improved. Much of our family time is spent
outdoors, whether it’s the beach, the mountains or the stables it is
possible to blend some of these elements around our working day.
The working day starts early and much e mailing and many meetings can
be done by 4.00 pm when school exits. After a couple of hours out and
about its home for homework, baths and dinner during which time my home
based broadband comes into its own and I can handle much of the day’s
paperwork.
At least that’s the theory…. Getting it right will take time but it’s already a more satisfying way to live.
Finally, a small but highly valuable technical note. Spain is about to become less Taxing for the Non-resident.
After several years of pressure from the European Union, Spain’s
Executive has tabled a series of measures that the Spanish Parliament
will need to pass by the end of 2006 to reduce Spain’s discriminatory
practices towards the Non-resident property owning community.
The true value of obtaining a legal “Residencia” (Residency) has been
the subject of some question in the past and is usually explained by
reference to the different levels of tax suffered by Residents and
Non-residents. Well, no longer. As from January 2007 it is planned that
the effective rate of tax that will be paid by a Resident or a
Non-resident on a Capital Gain made on, for example, a property sale
will be equalised at 18%. This is a reduction from the current rate of
35% for a non-resident and an increase for the resident up from 15%.
My colleagues tell me that measures already exist to allow the Owner of
the property – particularly if the property was purchase many years ago
– to create a notional price by the actual purchase price being
inflation linked. This will mean that the Capital Gains and therefore
the tax to be applied will be effectively levied at “today’s prices”
thereby reducing some of the burden of Spain’s flourishing property
market. Additionally, I am told that credits for the costs of
improvements can be taken in further reduction of the tax to be
ultimately paid.
I do hope that you’ll find some practical use from this further series
of lessons born out of our experiences in Spain. We look forward to
seeing you here!
© Mark FR Wilkins 2005 (Marbella)
Mark FR Wilkins
The Rights Group SL
mark@therightsgroup.com
www.therightsgroup.com
0034 600 343 917