They call it the Costa de la Luz because of the brilliant, clear light.
They might have called it the Costa del Viento, so strong is the wind at times along this stretch of coastline that includes historical Cádiz (Europe's oldest city), stunning Roman ruins at Bolonia, sherry making at Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and trendy Tarifa. In fact it's the wind that has converted Tarifa, once best known for its high suicide rate, into a top European destination for all manner of surf dudes.
Perhaps the same driving easterly wind, which funnels through the Straits of Gibraltar and is called the 'levante', has saved the Costa de la Luz from over exploitation. I mean, try relaxing on the beach when you've got sand blowing at you with such force that it literally stings your legs. Put that in the holiday brochure!
But it's not always windy, and ever since I moved here two years ago I've been trying to fathom out why this part of Spain, long since popular with Spanish tourists, has been largely ignored by foreign sun seekers.
After all the Costa de la Luz, on Spain’s Atlantic coast, gets more than 3000 hours of sunshine per year, and its clean sandy beaches go on for mile after mile.
Things have changed since I arrived here. As across the whole of Spain, building work is going on almost everywhere you look.
I'm no expert on regulations governing what can or cannot be constructed on the beachfront, but I can report that it's a growth area! Fortunately, much of the Costa de la Luz backs onto national park, which limits the number of flats and villas that can be built away from the beach, and guarantees that this area will never be totally spoiled.
Transport communications have improved considerably in the last two years, but crucially there is no complete motorway to link the provinces of Málaga, Cádiz (where you’ll find the Costa de la Luz) and Huelva, the last stop before Portugal. If the go-ahead is given for a motorway – and momentum is gathering - you can expect significant changes here. Put simply, it will attract more people, resulting in greater demand for housing and tourist accommodation.
For the moment, let’s enjoy all that the Costa de la Luz has to offer.
Here are some of my choice destinations:
Zahara de los Atunes.
Until just a few years ago, Zahara was a small and somewhat neglected fishing village. These days it’s popular with tourists who come to enjoy its magnificent beach, but even in August you’ll find plenty of space to put up your parasol. Have lunch in a ‘chiringuito’ (beach bar).
Roman ruins at Bolonia
A winding road leads you to the village of Bolonia, next to which there’s a spectacular and very well conserved Roman site which stretches right down to the beach. Entry to ‘Baelo Claudia’ is free (closed on Mondays). Take a walk along the beach and climb the big sand dune – from the top you’ll get views across to Tarifa and beyond to Africa.
Cádiz
Western Europe’s oldest city, Cádiz lies on a peninsula. Hence house prices are high, as there’s no land left to build on. Lose yourself in the rabbit warren of streets in the old town, sunbathe on the beach, or visit some of the city’s monuments and museums. Cádiz Carnival is famous throughout Europe and takes place in late February.
Written by
Jim Porter
Jim Porter owns a guesthouse in Arcos de la Frontera, inland from the Costa de la Luz. Arcos is one of the famous White Villages, and is an ideal base for exploring the delights of Cádiz province. Visit www.casacampana.com for more details. Jim has also developed a top-rated Spanish language learning system for children. More information here: www.speekee.co.uk