Today I want to show you a video, where you can learn Spanish, watching how we manufacture a shirt in Spain. Please click down here:
http://www.rtve.es/alacarta/videos/fabricando-made-in-spain/fabricando-made-in-spain-como-se-confecciona-camisa/2486052/
Voice in off: “The Lumberjack are mmade of squares and flowery Hawaiian. They were born without buttons, in the seventeenth century; it was underwear, that was hidden under other garments. Little by little, their fists were tightened and their neck was stretched. At present, they are made of cotton, silk, linen, smooth, striped, printed, short sleeve, with twins or buttons with Mao collar .... We are told by ...... Jorge ".
Jorge: “It is a puzzle of eighteen pieces, which then you have to make seventeen buttonholes and sew seventeen buttons. You are going to freak out with how difficult it is to manufacture one ...... Greet!, Do not .... Today we manufacture: a shirt”.
Jorge: “Do you mind?”
Ricardo Fraguas: “Come in!”
Jorge: “How do you do, Mr. Fraguas?...it is a great pleasure….”
Ricardo Fraguas: “Delighted”
Jorge: “A whole institution in the world shirt .... When do you manufactured your first shirt?”
Ricardo Fraguas: “In the year 56”
Jorge: “Now how many do you make each year here?
Ricardo Fraguas: “Approximately one million units”
Jorge: “They are working on the Spring-Summer Collection 2015 .... And today what is manufactured?”
Ricardo Fraguas (President of a textile company): “Today we are finishing up the summer 2014 collections”
Jorge: “This is the shirt that we will manufacture today: blue and white plaid linen”
Jorge: “But we will not do only one ..... How many are we doing, Juan Antonio?”
Juan Antonio Carralafuente (Responsible for raw materials): “We are going to make 60 of the size 3, 90 of the size 4, 70 of the size 5 and 40 logging size 6; Total: 260 garments”.
Jorge: “And how many meters of this fabric we need to make 260 shirts?”.
Juan Antonio: “We should need 429 Euros”.
Jorge: “Come on to get the fabric….Where is the fabric?”.
Jorge: “Fabric pink, red, stripes….What is the color that they ask for you?”.
Juan Antonio: “The color that we are asked more are always blues”
Jorge: “Here is our fabric”
Juan Antonio: “We go over, to see if it is defective”
………Music………………
Juan Antonio: “This fabric is one hundred percent linen”
Jorge: “This counts the yards of fabric”
Juan Antonio: “That counts the yards of fabric”
Jorge: “To reach 429”
Juan Antonio: “Exactly”
Jorge: “And here you go looking, that it does not has any damage?”
Juan Antonio: “that there is no defect, no stain, no broken ... nothing”
Jorge: “And it gives you time to look around so fast?”
Juan Antonio: “Give time to look, but occasionally I have to stop a little, because it is dizzying, this fabric is dizzying”
Jorge: “Yes, yes, I was going to say you that: I am getting dizzy”
………Music…………………..
Jorge: “We have all 429 yards of fabric for our shirts. What else do we need?”
Juan Antonio: “Buttons”
Jorge: “How many buttons we shall need?”
Juan Antonio: “Then we would need: 1,300 of the small button; and 3300 of this other one”.
Jorge: “A shirt in total how many buttons takes?”
Juan Antonio: “17 buttons takes”
Jorge: “See, Where are they?”
Juan Antonio: “2 in tip collar and then takes: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 .... 9 ... Here would carry two ... then would carry a spare and then on this flap, another small”
…………music.......
Juan Antonio: “This is our thread”
Jorge: “Do we have the 26,000 meters, that we need?”
Juan Antonio: “We have the enough”
Jorge: “Yes or no”
Juan Antonio: “Yes”
Jorge: “What we need ... the gussets?”
Juan Antonio: “The gussets”
Jorge: “What is that”
Juan Antonio: “Gussets are carrying parts collars, inside the collar"
Jorge: “This one should be a gusset, that should go inside the collar”
Jorge: “And in cuffs”
Juan Antonio: “one in each cuff”
Jorge: “Can you prepare me the order and I am doing while the pattern of the shirt?”
Juan Antonio: “Perfect”
Jorge: “Thank you”
Juan Antonio: “Thanks”
………Music………...
Voice in off: “We already have the fabric, the thread and the buttons… It will attract your attention how it is the laborious manufacturing process ..... See how this machine makes buttonholes ... all at the same distance ....? . Did you know that first of all, they are stitched and after blade open them?…… Equally accurate is this other machine, which is responsible for packaging the flashes, each with its own flavor and exact amount. Then you see it”.
……………Music…………………………………………………..
Jorge: “Do you mind?”
Another voice in off: “Come in”
Jorge: “This is the section of the pattern designing. Teo”
Teo: “Hellooo”
Jorge: “I start with you. I need the pattern for this wonderful shirt that we will make”
Teo: “Very well”
Jorge: “The pattern is the template, that then we will continu21e, when cutting the fabric”
Teo: “Exactly”
Jorge: “This part, that you are doing now .....”
Teo: “It is the front of the shirt”
Jorge: “And now which is this part?”
Teo: “The sleeve”
Jorge: “Where the sleeve must be?”
Teo: “It has to get to the first knuckle of the thumb; so the, when you button it….”
Jorge: “the sleeve does not go to the elbow”
Teo (Teofilo Rodriguez): “Exact”
Jorge: “The pattern of Teo enters the Lucía´s computer
Lucía Vega: “Teo pass to me the patterns and I make sizes: from the smallest (the S) to extra large (XXXL)”.
Jorge: “The most common size, which is more sold, which is more asked .......”
Lucía Vega: “But the L “
Jorge: “When Lucía has everything already…, Ismael has to make a very complicated puzzle….If she makes it well or makes it bad, it depends on her that a lot of fabric is thrown out. Is not it, Ismael?”
Ismael: “Yes, exactly”
Jorge: “This part here, simulates a roll of fabric, such as that we will use for our shirt, which then have to be cut”
Ismael Olmedo (cutting Responsible): “Exactly. We are trying to put the pieces of the patterns, the more possible together, to make the most of the fabric……”
Jorge: “But you can not put them together anything you want. Keep in mind throughout the design shirt, everywhere of shirt. such as fists, the two are equal, which begins with an orange line .... such as collars, as are the strips".
Ismael: “These dots, which we see here, with some few little numbers, are the dots which indicate us all, that we want to be joined in the shirt”
Jorge: “That pieces join means that the lines are parallel”
Ismael: “Look: that neither you see the pocket”
Jorge: “Clearly, then, when you make a plaid shirt, you use a lot more fabric than with the plain shirt”
Ismael: “With a difference of 15 or 20 feet, with a plain shirt, where we join nothing, to a plaid shirt, where we join all parts of the shirt”
Jorge: “Thank you very much, Ismael. The pattern, the “marked”, the puzzle of pieces, which Ismael has done, is printed on this plotter, in this giant printer, to start cutting”
……………………Music…………………………………………….
Jorge: “This is a cart of “extended”. Hello, Ubaldo”
Ubaldo Carrasco (Director of manufacture): “Hello. How are you, Jorge?”
Jorge: “We will make 260 shirts .... Sure, in order to not to cut them one by one, we make a lot”
Ubaldo: “A lot”
…………Music………………………….
Ubaldo: “The next operation, once you have completed the extended, is to separate it into manageable pieces for operations, which will come later”
Jorge: “It is not tried to cut flush with the line…..
Ubaldo: “Exactly”
Jorge: …..but little pieces of fabric”
Ubaldo: “Correct. To separate the pieces”
…………Music………………
Jorge: “Rosa and Loli are responsible for the punch….Here it is tried that you placed, fabric to fabric, then you have the equal drawing on all shirts”
Rosa: “In all shirts”
Jorge: “In this case, we see that the buttons will be placed on a blue line”
Rosa Maria (Extender of cloth): “The table is all full of holes; we introduce the needle, we punctured the paper and the first fabric”
Jorge: “This line shall be the line of the buttons”
Rosa: “We follow the same line .... until the bottom”
Jorge: “And thus, one by one”
Rosa: “One after another”
Jorge: “How is your husband, Rosa?”
Rosa: “Manolo”
Jorge: “Manolo…..And Manolo also gets these shirts?”
Rosa: “Yes”
Jorge: “Or do you say: do not get that, I am sick of being every day with these fabrics?”
Rosa: “No, no ... I like to see him with our shirts”
Jorge: “Once the pieces are perfectly aligned, Rafa enters in action. What is Rafa doing?”
Rafa: “Add a template to cut is accurate”
…………………Music……………………………………
Jorge: “One, two, thre –that is the pocket--, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, eleven, twelve, thirteen, fourteen, fifteen, sixteen, seventeen and eighteen….Three white, that then will be….”
Rafa: “on the inside of cuffs ...”
Jorge: “And in the collar”
Rafa: “Inside the foot of the collar”
…………………………………..Music……………………………………………………..
Jorge: “Room of dressmaking….My mother…a few women are working here….!”
Rafa: “Yes, yes, here there are 50 people working and each of them is responsible for making a part of the shirt”
Jorge: “We start with the collar and Mari Carmen”
Rafa: “She places the interfacing on the fabric: it is a cotton base, having an adhesive, which then, with the heat that the machine gives, the adhesive is dissolved and, when cooled, it is perfectly stuck”
Jorge: “The little collar goes in…it is about 15 seconds inside and it goes out above”
…………Music……………..
Jorge: “And from Mari Carmen to Micaela, and what she is doing is another fabric to sew collar, a second fabric; but she is in a mistake, with nerves .... and she has put the white out…”
Rafa: “No, she was not wrong, because then you have this collar flip”
……………..music……………………
Jorge: “I take these collars. Thank you, Maica….to Romina…….happyness…..Romina Power”
Romina: “We take the collar; we put it into the “lampa”, in order to be able to flip it. After we put it in the template, so that the seams and the tips are very well marked….
Jorge: “And what does it, as If you iron it?”
Romina: “Yes”
…music….
Rafa: “Here we finish the collar: she is joining the foot of collar to the shovel of collar”
Voice in off: “The foot is the part of the collar that goes up; ie, it makes the jacket up, around the neck of the person. And the shovel is the adjacent piece to the foot, which is bent towards the outside, forming the peaks of the shirt”
Jorge: “So it is the finished collar: white inside and squares out. Now we go to the next step, which is the little pocket. Mercedes is the responsible of the front pockets”
Mercedes: “I put this template here; the frame slightly, and I know at the height it has to be the pocket”
Jorge: “How long it takes to put the pocket?”
Mercedes: “Half a minute”
…..music………
Jorge: “The responsible of the cuff of the shirt is Rosa. Rosa: the cuff can be: circular, like this one….….”
Rosa: “Round, or it can be carrado…”
Jorge: “What is carrado?....with tip, like this one, that I am wearing”
Rosa: “Exactly”
Jorge: “Do you like the shirt, that I am wearing?”
Rosa: “Yes, I do”
Jorge: “Is it nice?”
Rosa: “Of course, it is from here…”
…..music……
Rosa: “This machine, depending on the template, that you put, it makes the cuff or round or carrado”
Jorge: “Then do you like my shirt?”
Rosa: “But did you not wear with green?”
Jorge: “Green?, I never weared green”
………………….Music…………………………………………………..
Rafa: “Loli is riding the underbodice to the back”
Jorge: “The underbodice is this part, the back is this one….and Loli makes these folds”
Rafa: “Exactly”
Jorge: “Why can you not remove the folds?, that, when ironing shirt, it is a drag, it is a drag "
Rafa: “Folds help us to give more comfort to the garment; without fold, it would be more difficult, the garment would be more taken in”
Jorge: “And Angelines is already joining the collar to the front and back............Let´s see….this one looks like a shirt”
…………………..music…………………………………….
Jorge: “Charo, hello: we need some buttonholes. Are you ready?”
Charo: “I am ready”
Jorge: “We make the first one…..And do you sew and make the hole, at a time, or not?”
Charo: “First the buttonhole is sewn and then the blade goes down"
Jorge: “And the distance among buttonhole and buttonhole, to 8 and a half, how is, with your eye?”
Charo: “No, no, no, because I am getting the buttonhole here, I pull and each other are 8 and half”
Jorge: “Here, anyone touching the machine to anyone ...”
Charo: “No”
Jorge: “because they get like beasts”
Charo: “My machine does not touch anyone ... cause of my machine, I kill!”
Jorge: “And now ... the little buttons Angelines”
Angelines: “Hello”
Jorge: “Hello. How are you?”
Angelines: “Very well, And you?”
Jorge: “ Let's see how paste the buttons”
………music………………..
Jorge: “Finished shirt. Put it there!......Very well, thank you”
Angelines: “You are welcome”
Jorge: “Well, we are already ending. We put the sleeves and it is already”
…………music……………………………
Jorge: “Sacramento. Sacri: I bring you this, so that you hit the sleeves. Have you ever made a mistake and put the cuff on the shoulder?”
Sacri: “No, no, that is impossible”
Jorge: “Shall it from there the expression: everything is turned upside down?”
Sacri: “I think so”
Jorge: “Another one”
Sacri: “In good times, green sleeves”
Jorge: “Correct…. Do not get in over …..”
Sacri: “my head”
………..music………………
Jorge: “And, when they are joined all the pieces of the shirt, it is time for quality control .... All shirts go through here, Adelaida”
Adelaida: “Yes. All”
Jorge: “And what are you searching?”
Adelaida: “Most of all: threads, defects, a stain ....”
Jorge: “The shirts are ironed by parts by you Lola”
Lola: “By parts………..”
Jorge: “First machine: it is responsible for iron which parts of the shirt?”
Lola: “Collars and cuffs”
……….music…………
Jorge: “That machine is shaped like collars and cuffs and this is shaped like a little body”
Lola: “Of course. They are two mannequins”
Jorge: “There are two large plates, which crush”
Lola Pérez (Responsible for iron): “Of course….and but well crushed…”
Jorge: “They crush strong”
………music…………….
Jorge: “I am in my home, I find this shirt, What can I do with it?. I do not know!”
Lola: “You start at the collar….”
Jorge: “Right, it is already”
Lola: “Continuing the cuff, inside and out. It is important that this is damp…, damp, not wet”
Jorge: “The shirt is ironed out or inside?”.
Lola: “Out”
Jorge: “I was ironing it inside”
Lola: “because you are so…”
Jorge: “Lola, How does the shirt have to put at home: hanging on a hanger or folded?”
Lola: “is that is going to like each; but you, you put it on a hanger”
Jorge: “You tell me: you, you, as if I was a disaster ....”
Lola: “You put it on a hanger and fastened the buttons: one yes and one no”
Jorge: “Marga cover the shirt, she put it into a case and that´s all folks. I want it”
Lola: “No”
Jorge: “How not?”
Lola: “No”
Jorge: “How not, Lola…”
Lola: “That no”
Jorge: “Well, now we will negotiate….Let's go over all the work that is behind a shirt”
……music………
Voice in off: “To make a shirt, we need: fabric, thread, buttons 17 and a series of interlinings. The department of pattern design how each of the 18 pieces that make up our shirt. We will cut the fabric and begin sewing: First, the collar, we stick the interlining, a second fabric, we turn it and iron it ... The coffs will be weave by a machine, almost alone, with the help of templates. The front pocket is sewn to the front, keeping in mind the design of the fabric, in less than half a minute .... the underbodice to the back, then the front, collar and sleeves .. 17 buttons and 17 buttonholes, in order that we can join them. We iron, bend, and after eighty operations, the shirt enters the box”
Well. The video has finished and I hope that you have liked; I hope that you have not bored.
Till soon, kind regards,
Luis.
Sponsored by Costaluz Lawyers.
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